Koni FSD install .... HELP!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 17
From: Middlefield, OH
Koni FSD install .... HELP!
I posted that I was going to install today. We are and we have some questions. The Koni FSDs do not come with a dust cover. Am I suppose to use the OEM and enlarge the hole? Do I reuse the OEM bumpstop under the dust cover, from what I've read I don't think so. The pic here shows OEM vs. Koni parts (the photo is from an earlier post from torch2000vert.)
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 46,295
Likes: 2,596
From: Northern, VA
St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
IIRC yes, you are supposed to reuse the existing ones.
See post 1 and 2.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-question.html
See post 1 and 2.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-question.html
Last edited by AORoads; Mar 13, 2010 at 12:52 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 668
From: North Fulton Georgia
You might be done by now but here is an excerpt from the post I made when i did this.
Lets start with the installation review.
I used all the OEM hardware, including the bump stops and dust boots. The only Koni stuff I used was the white disk that goes under the bump stops and the upper nuts and cap to cover them. They give the upper area a more finished look. Basically as a few stated the OEM stuff just looked more substantial. Hopefully this is not going to become an issue later for some reason.
The rears were the easier to do. They do not need to be compressed to come out, just a little patience to turn and wiggle them just right. Nothing remarkable here.
The fronts! The fronts! They were a little more challenging. The tie wrap approach did not work for me. They would not hold the shock in a compressed state. I have and used high quality heavy duty ties but to no avail. I decided to undo the upper a-arm. That was not difficult and made everything easy to remove. Once I went with this approach they went in without issue. You DO have to undo the coolant reservoir but that is 2 nuts. no biggie. Just push it aside and you are set.
The dust boots did need to have the opening enlarged and I had a step bit that made quick work if it and the new opening was perfect.
Other than taking the time it takes, I can't really think of anything else to report on the installation process.
All in I took my sweet time. I stopped various times to answer work email, to eat, to take a breather, etc. All in it took me about 5 ultra leasurly hours. It could have gone quicker for sure, but I wasn't in any hurry.
Now the results. Initially the ride height was much higher than stock. I took it for a quick run around the lake to settle the suspension. On my return the ride height returned to stock exactly.
I then went for a quick QA run. No noises, no slop, so it seems I did everything right.
They were pricey but let me just say how immediate the improvements can be felt. The ride is instantly civilized. No more jitters and turn-in is razor sharp. Road imperfections are greatly, greatly minimized. The suspension feels "tight" and competant. I was rather limited in this quick test but the car turns flat, perhaps a little more so than with the OEM Z51 shocks.
I will visit a couple of my in-town benchmark curves and highway ramps to see how she behaves over the next couple days.
This definitely a
modification. If the initial results are any indication of things to come, I can't recommend the FSD's enough!
I used all the OEM hardware, including the bump stops and dust boots. The only Koni stuff I used was the white disk that goes under the bump stops and the upper nuts and cap to cover them. They give the upper area a more finished look. Basically as a few stated the OEM stuff just looked more substantial. Hopefully this is not going to become an issue later for some reason.
The rears were the easier to do. They do not need to be compressed to come out, just a little patience to turn and wiggle them just right. Nothing remarkable here.
The fronts! The fronts! They were a little more challenging. The tie wrap approach did not work for me. They would not hold the shock in a compressed state. I have and used high quality heavy duty ties but to no avail. I decided to undo the upper a-arm. That was not difficult and made everything easy to remove. Once I went with this approach they went in without issue. You DO have to undo the coolant reservoir but that is 2 nuts. no biggie. Just push it aside and you are set.
The dust boots did need to have the opening enlarged and I had a step bit that made quick work if it and the new opening was perfect.
Other than taking the time it takes, I can't really think of anything else to report on the installation process.
All in I took my sweet time. I stopped various times to answer work email, to eat, to take a breather, etc. All in it took me about 5 ultra leasurly hours. It could have gone quicker for sure, but I wasn't in any hurry.
Now the results. Initially the ride height was much higher than stock. I took it for a quick run around the lake to settle the suspension. On my return the ride height returned to stock exactly.
I then went for a quick QA run. No noises, no slop, so it seems I did everything right.
They were pricey but let me just say how immediate the improvements can be felt. The ride is instantly civilized. No more jitters and turn-in is razor sharp. Road imperfections are greatly, greatly minimized. The suspension feels "tight" and competant. I was rather limited in this quick test but the car turns flat, perhaps a little more so than with the OEM Z51 shocks.
I will visit a couple of my in-town benchmark curves and highway ramps to see how she behaves over the next couple days.
This definitely a
modification. If the initial results are any indication of things to come, I can't recommend the FSD's enough! 
Life Time NCM #2196
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 82,586
Likes: 1,698
From: Converse TX
You might be done by now but here is an excerpt from the post I made when i did this.
Lets start with the installation review.
I used all the OEM hardware, including the bump stops and dust boots. The only Koni stuff I used was the white disk that goes under the bump stops and the upper nuts and cap to cover them. They give the upper area a more finished look. Basically as a few stated the OEM stuff just looked more substantial. Hopefully this is not going to become an issue later for some reason.
The rears were the easier to do. They do not need to be compressed to come out, just a little patience to turn and wiggle them just right. Nothing remarkable here.
The fronts! The fronts! They were a little more challenging. The tie wrap approach did not work for me. They would not hold the shock in a compressed state. I have and used high quality heavy duty ties but to no avail. I decided to undo the upper a-arm. That was not difficult and made everything easy to remove. Once I went with this approach they went in without issue. You DO have to undo the coolant reservoir but that is 2 nuts. no biggie. Just push it aside and you are set.
The dust boots did need to have the opening enlarged and I had a step bit that made quick work if it and the new opening was perfect.
Other than taking the time it takes, I can't really think of anything else to report on the installation process.
All in I took my sweet time. I stopped various times to answer work email, to eat, to take a breather, etc. All in it took me about 5 ultra leasurly hours. It could have gone quicker for sure, but I wasn't in any hurry.
Now the results. Initially the ride height was much higher than stock. I took it for a quick run around the lake to settle the suspension. On my return the ride height returned to stock exactly.
I then went for a quick QA run. No noises, no slop, so it seems I did everything right.
They were pricey but let me just say how immediate the improvements can be felt. The ride is instantly civilized. No more jitters and turn-in is razor sharp. Road imperfections are greatly, greatly minimized. The suspension feels "tight" and competant. I was rather limited in this quick test but the car turns flat, perhaps a little more so than with the OEM Z51 shocks.
I will visit a couple of my in-town benchmark curves and highway ramps to see how she behaves over the next couple days.
This definitely a modification. If the initial results are any indication of things to come, I can't recommend the FSD's enough!
I used all the OEM hardware, including the bump stops and dust boots. The only Koni stuff I used was the white disk that goes under the bump stops and the upper nuts and cap to cover them. They give the upper area a more finished look. Basically as a few stated the OEM stuff just looked more substantial. Hopefully this is not going to become an issue later for some reason.
The rears were the easier to do. They do not need to be compressed to come out, just a little patience to turn and wiggle them just right. Nothing remarkable here.
The fronts! The fronts! They were a little more challenging. The tie wrap approach did not work for me. They would not hold the shock in a compressed state. I have and used high quality heavy duty ties but to no avail. I decided to undo the upper a-arm. That was not difficult and made everything easy to remove. Once I went with this approach they went in without issue. You DO have to undo the coolant reservoir but that is 2 nuts. no biggie. Just push it aside and you are set.
The dust boots did need to have the opening enlarged and I had a step bit that made quick work if it and the new opening was perfect.
Other than taking the time it takes, I can't really think of anything else to report on the installation process.
All in I took my sweet time. I stopped various times to answer work email, to eat, to take a breather, etc. All in it took me about 5 ultra leasurly hours. It could have gone quicker for sure, but I wasn't in any hurry.
Now the results. Initially the ride height was much higher than stock. I took it for a quick run around the lake to settle the suspension. On my return the ride height returned to stock exactly.
I then went for a quick QA run. No noises, no slop, so it seems I did everything right.
They were pricey but let me just say how immediate the improvements can be felt. The ride is instantly civilized. No more jitters and turn-in is razor sharp. Road imperfections are greatly, greatly minimized. The suspension feels "tight" and competant. I was rather limited in this quick test but the car turns flat, perhaps a little more so than with the OEM Z51 shocks.
I will visit a couple of my in-town benchmark curves and highway ramps to see how she behaves over the next couple days.
This definitely a
modification. If the initial results are any indication of things to come, I can't recommend the FSD's enough! 
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 14
From: Tulalip WA
Was your ride height affected at all? From most of the threads posted there seems to be a lowering of the car. More so on the front as opposed to the rear. Which, is what I am looking for as a bonus with the FSD shocks.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
From: N.J.
I am wanting to do this upgrade, have heard/read great reviews about the FSD's and Tire Rack has a discount from Koni, the only thing you would think as expensive as they are you wouldn't have to use old dust boots, that i don't understand 
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 5
From: Ambler Pa.
I posted that I was going to install today. We are and we have some questions. The Koni FSDs do not come with a dust cover. Am I suppose to use the OEM and enlarge the hole? Do I reuse the OEM bumpstop under the dust cover, from what I've read I don't think so. The pic here shows OEM vs. Koni parts (the photo is from an earlier post from torch2000vert.)
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 668
From: North Fulton Georgia
Well thats exactly what you'll get. About 1/2" to 3/4" in front, less in the rear maybe 3/8" or so.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 3
From: Buena Park CA
You might be done by now but here is an excerpt from the post I made when i did this.
[LEFT]Lets start with the installation review.
I used all the OEM hardware, including the bump stops and dust boots. The only Koni stuff I used was the white disk that goes under the bump stops and the upper nuts and cap to cover them. They give the upper area a more finished look. Basically as a few stated the OEM stuff just looked more substantial. Hopefully this is not going to become an issue later for some reason.
The rears were the easier to do. They do not need to be compressed to come out, just a little patience to turn and wiggle them just right. Nothing remarkable here.
The fronts! The fronts! They were a little more challenging. The tie wrap approach did not work for me. They would not hold the shock in a compressed state. I have and used high quality heavy duty ties but to no avail. I decided to undo the upper a-arm. That was not difficult and made everything easy to remove. Once I went with this approach they went in without issue. You DO have to undo the coolant reservoir but that is 2 nuts. no biggie. Just push it aside and you are set.
The dust boots did need to have the opening enlarged and I had a step bit that made quick work if it and the new opening was perfect.
[LEFT]Lets start with the installation review.
I used all the OEM hardware, including the bump stops and dust boots. The only Koni stuff I used was the white disk that goes under the bump stops and the upper nuts and cap to cover them. They give the upper area a more finished look. Basically as a few stated the OEM stuff just looked more substantial. Hopefully this is not going to become an issue later for some reason.
The rears were the easier to do. They do not need to be compressed to come out, just a little patience to turn and wiggle them just right. Nothing remarkable here.
The fronts! The fronts! They were a little more challenging. The tie wrap approach did not work for me. They would not hold the shock in a compressed state. I have and used high quality heavy duty ties but to no avail. I decided to undo the upper a-arm. That was not difficult and made everything easy to remove. Once I went with this approach they went in without issue. You DO have to undo the coolant reservoir but that is 2 nuts. no biggie. Just push it aside and you are set.
The dust boots did need to have the opening enlarged and I had a step bit that made quick work if it and the new opening was perfect.
I just used a drill bit to open them up, took 2 seconds each....done, I love the FSD's....they are more than worth it!
Life Time NCM #2196
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 82,586
Likes: 1,698
From: Converse TX
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 17
From: Middlefield, OH
Thanks to everyone here and all the info on the forum we have them installed. Once the first one went in the rest became a little easier, especially when we got to the back. I used the OE dust covers (just drilled them out a little,) the OE bump stops and the Koni bushings. Took a few hours but we took our time. It was good to work on the car and spend some time with my son ... haven't done that in awhile. Tomorrow it's newly powder coated calipers from Mike the powder coater, thermal abs and a Borla x-pipe.
