Very upset!!
I recently purchased the AC Delco Ceramic brake pads and they make more noise then my originals did!! I have a problem with the product not Gene Culley (he is a great vendor). Is there anything i can do to eliminate this noise? Im about to just got and buy another set of pads. Or maybe it is my rotors? Does anyone have any suggestions?
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From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
I recently purchased the AC Delco Ceramic brake pads and they make more noise then my originals did!! I have a problem with the product not Gene Culley (he is a great vendor). Is there anything i can do to eliminate this noise? Im about to just got and buy another set of pads. Or maybe it is my rotors? Does anyone have any suggestions?
My original factory pads were making a mess and real noisy. I just put a set of Gene's ceramics on this past week and no problems at all. My rotors were in great shape but we did take a scotch brite pad on a drill motor and pretty much took the glaze off the surface. That could be your situation as well.
They seated after about 10 miles of stopping and going and all is well. After a full week of driving... no noise and no brake dust.
Robert
Melting Slicks






Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,574
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From: Simi Valley California
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'10, '15. '22-'23
All you need to do is bed them in and they will stop squeaking...
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
Last edited by C6 MoneyPit; Mar 20, 2010 at 03:07 PM.
Sounds to me like you did not properly bed them. I recently had to change the OEM Brembo pads on my Acura TL-S and did the bedding procedure and they are the smoothest, most quiet brakes I have ever had.
8-10 HARD 60mph to 10mph stops but not hard enough to engage ABS. Key is to NEVER come to a full stop and do all of these runs one after the other. Once your done continue driving for around 10+ minutes preferably at highway speed without using the brakes.
This is in my experience the best way to do it and recommended directly from some brake manufacturers.
It will be 100% normal to smell the brakes and yes they will get VERY hot.
8-10 HARD 60mph to 10mph stops but not hard enough to engage ABS. Key is to NEVER come to a full stop and do all of these runs one after the other. Once your done continue driving for around 10+ minutes preferably at highway speed without using the brakes.
This is in my experience the best way to do it and recommended directly from some brake manufacturers.
It will be 100% normal to smell the brakes and yes they will get VERY hot.
James
My car only has 8k miles on it and mine are very noisy. I have a Neighbor with a newer CTS and I can hear her squealing 2 blocks away when she is coming home, and they have had Cadillac service the pads and rotors twice with no luck.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...nged-pads.html
I started squeeling yesterday with less than 9000 miles. SCROLL TO POST #16
I started squeeling yesterday with less than 9000 miles. SCROLL TO POST #16
When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system: heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors; and maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are �cooked' out of the pad.
The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.
The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are �cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.
The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed.
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or �green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.
The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are �cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.
The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed.
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or �green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
All you need to do is bed them in and they will stop squeaking...
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
As Robert said, when I personally put new pads on used rotors, I scuff up the rotors to remove the glazing. Then you need to properly bed them in.
To bed them in, you just go out somewhere where you won't be a safety hazard and do several panic stops from around 65 to 25 and after a few of those you'll see smoke coming from the brakes. That's when to stop, lol.
How are you making out with them?
To bed them in, you just go out somewhere where you won't be a safety hazard and do several panic stops from around 65 to 25 and after a few of those you'll see smoke coming from the brakes. That's when to stop, lol.
How are you making out with them?
Are you putting brake grease on the back of the pads on on the pins? I've always heard that most of the squealing actually comes from vibration between the back of the pads and the pistons. I don't know that for sure, but I always grease mine and they never squeak.
That might work for used pads but just make sure you dont come to a complete stop while doing the actual bedding process on new pads.
James
James
All you need to do is bed them in and they will stop squeaking...
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
Simple solution 













