Check coolant level
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 637
Likes: 3
From: Tacoma WA
Check coolant level
So leaving work today I got the check coolant level on the DIC. I have never got that before. I checked the surge tank located below the clutch and brake fluid reservoir and it has coolant in it. Is there another way to check the coolant? The radiator is covered by the plastic surrounding the intake shroud.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 356
Likes: 1
From: Fort Myers FL
I have an 05 and in these past years this has happened about 3 times. Each time visual inspection shows level right where it's supposed to be. I added the smallest amount of fluid and that seemed to satisfy the system that was indeed full.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 693
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles CA
check the coolant level from the front of the tank where there is a mark for full.
still hard to see if your engine bay is dirty like mine, i have to shine a flashlight at the tank and maybe even jiggle the tank a bit to see the coolant level vs. the mark in the front of the tank.
still hard to see if your engine bay is dirty like mine, i have to shine a flashlight at the tank and maybe even jiggle the tank a bit to see the coolant level vs. the mark in the front of the tank.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 362
Likes: 1
From: Chicago IL
That alert is triggered by some tricky temperature measurements rather than any absolute level test so is most likely to occur if you don't let the engine warm up before taking off. That's my experience anyway.
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: San Clemente CA
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 486
Likes: 2
From: The Villages FL
LS WON, Two reasons for no fill cap on the radiator: 1. There is not enough height to package it and be useful. 2. The surge tank is by design the high point in the cooling system. The pressure/fill cap on the surge tank is at the best location for function and accessability. I hope this answers your question.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 32,074
Likes: 296
From: San Francisco CA
LS WON, Two reasons for no fill cap on the radiator: 1. There is not enough height to package it and be useful. 2. The surge tank is by design the high point in the cooling system. The pressure/fill cap on the surge tank is at the best location for function and accessability. I hope this answers your question.
Thanks for that info. I'm wondering then why didn't the dealership do it the other way mentioned here of removing the lower radiator hose which I have never done or am familiar with of that method.(If you do it this way removing lower radiator hose, how can it be flushed with water as there is still no radiator top but only the plastic bottle?) Dealership told me you can not flush because of the system with plastic bottle.
Or is it just a gravity drain then insert lower radiator hose back on?.
I'm used to removing cap on top of radiator and inserting hose in and flushing system out through draincock till water comes out clear while vehicle is running.
Otherwise changing coolant was done just by draining through petcock and then just adding what is being replaced not getting most of everything out with the old stuff and in with the new stuff.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 486
Likes: 2
From: The Villages FL
LS WON You can do what you have always done ie drain at the valve at the bottom of the radiator tank while adding fresh water at the surge tank cap opening. Doing this is frowned upon by the EPA if you are letting it run down your driveway and gutter. Glycol is a poison to animals that like its sweet taste. Your dealer should have the proper equipment to extract the old coolant an install new.
When you add flush water at the surge tank it travels via the 3/4" hose from the tank to the engine side of the T-Stat through the engine and back to the LH radiator tank. The problem with this is you now have tap water left in you cooling system to contaminate your fresh coolant.
When you add flush water at the surge tank it travels via the 3/4" hose from the tank to the engine side of the T-Stat through the engine and back to the LH radiator tank. The problem with this is you now have tap water left in you cooling system to contaminate your fresh coolant.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 32,074
Likes: 296
From: San Francisco CA
LS WON You can do what you have always done ie drain at the valve at the bottom of the radiator tank while adding fresh water at the surge tank cap opening. Doing this is frowned upon by the EPA if you are letting it run down your driveway and gutter. Glycol is a poison to animals that like its sweet taste. Your dealer should have the proper equipment to extract the old coolant an install new.
When you add flush water at the surge tank it travels via the 3/4" hose from the tank to the engine side of the T-Stat through the engine and back to the LH radiator tank. The problem with this is you now have tap water left in you cooling system to contaminate your fresh coolant.
When you add flush water at the surge tank it travels via the 3/4" hose from the tank to the engine side of the T-Stat through the engine and back to the LH radiator tank. The problem with this is you now have tap water left in you cooling system to contaminate your fresh coolant.
The only way to keep it from getting contaminated is just to drain what is in radiator then add 1 gal. of distilled water in bottle and one bottle of anti-freeze in bottle. No flush involved. This is an easier way but not a complete way.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 525
Likes: 1
From: Vancouver BC
I am on my second high-comp 418 engine, and I have been dealing with the "check coolant level" with both engines. As others have stated, apparently an algorithm is used (rate of temperature increase?) to determine whether or not the coolant is working properly.
For me, if I let the car warm up too long the "check coolant level" is triggered. If I get the car moving relatively soon (after starting) then I am almost always OK. I think a moving car, provides just enough extra cooling to prevent the algorithm from tripping.
If anyone has any suggestions...I would appreciate it!
For me, if I let the car warm up too long the "check coolant level" is triggered. If I get the car moving relatively soon (after starting) then I am almost always OK. I think a moving car, provides just enough extra cooling to prevent the algorithm from tripping.
If anyone has any suggestions...I would appreciate it!
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 32,074
Likes: 296
From: San Francisco CA
LS WON You can do what you have always done ie drain at the valve at the bottom of the radiator tank while adding fresh water at the surge tank cap opening. Doing this is frowned upon by the EPA if you are letting it run down your driveway and gutter. Glycol is a poison to animals that like its sweet taste. Your dealer should have the proper equipment to extract the old coolant an install new.
When you add flush water at the surge tank it travels via the 3/4" hose from the tank to the engine side of the T-Stat through the engine and back to the LH radiator tank. The problem with this is you now have tap water left in you cooling system to contaminate your fresh coolant.
When you add flush water at the surge tank it travels via the 3/4" hose from the tank to the engine side of the T-Stat through the engine and back to the LH radiator tank. The problem with this is you now have tap water left in you cooling system to contaminate your fresh coolant.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 32,074
Likes: 296
From: San Francisco CA
I am on my second high-comp 418 engine, and I have been dealing with the "check coolant level" with both engines. As others have stated, apparently an algorithm is used (rate of temperature increase?) to determine whether or not the coolant is working properly.
For me, if I let the car warm up too long the "check coolant level" is triggered. If I get the car moving relatively soon (after starting) then I am almost always OK. I think a moving car, provides just enough extra cooling to prevent the algorithm from tripping.
If anyone has any suggestions...I would appreciate it!
For me, if I let the car warm up too long the "check coolant level" is triggered. If I get the car moving relatively soon (after starting) then I am almost always OK. I think a moving car, provides just enough extra cooling to prevent the algorithm from tripping.
If anyone has any suggestions...I would appreciate it!
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 525
Likes: 1
From: Vancouver BC
I haven't, but at this point I would do the chicken dance if someone said it would help. I will check into the Red Line Water Wetter. Thank you.
I am also thinking about posting my issue at HP Tuners. Perhaps the HP Tuner software could be updated to "massage" the coolant algorithm a bit.
I am also thinking about posting my issue at HP Tuners. Perhaps the HP Tuner software could be updated to "massage" the coolant algorithm a bit.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 22
From: Whittier CA
Ditto... This happened to me within the first week I owned the vehicle. Added a very small amount of coolant to the reservoir which fixed the problem.
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: vancity BC
happened to me once...
Like some of the fellas here said, I started it up and nailed it very shortly after giving me that message for my 30 mile cruise home. After that I always let the engine temps come up before stomping on it and am yet to see the message again.
