could you please walk me through this. I have a P0803 error code (1-4 upshift solenoid circuit.) Would this method help me.

Thanks,
Brandon

 

Go to www.mamotoeworks.com the one for 1997 - 2011 is part number 603-703 - I would not be without one.

 

That site doesn't work, do you have another address?

 

I had a 6spd Camaro and a 98 Vette with CAGS and they needed the bypass. The computer programming was very intrusive. MY 05 Vert Z51 and now my 07Z06 have not needed or gotten any bypasses. They are not near as intrusive as the earlier cars.

Your results may very!

 

My first two mods were the M2W and the CAGS eliminator.

I prefer to drive without paying attention to what speed or rpm the car is running. With the CAGS disabled, I can just shift gears when it feels right to shift gears. I've been shifting gears like that since 1954, and see no reason to start driving differently now.

 

Well Joe you have driven a few years longer than me (started 1962)

I drive my rides and shift when its the right time and I sure do not pay attention to certain speeds or RPMs like you think I might do! If your driving right I see no need to put that thing on a WELL DRIVEN car.

My long time driving life also includes being a CDL large truck driver and I feel that I know what I'm talking about!

Your results might be different!

 

http://www.mamotorworks.com/

 

First change I made to my car within week #1 was to install a cags eliminator in the form of the fuse. Bought mine on eBay for a little less than $20 because I didn't know about the "smart fuse". Replace the original fuse with this thing and all of a sudden shifting is a dream. I am another of the "old timers" who have preferred manual gearboxes since ancient times and I resent any forced economy gimcracks over-riding my gear shifts. I not driving a ricer, so I refuse to drive at higher rpm's in first to avoid cags interference.

Second change I made was pulling the fuse on the NPP exhaust. Love the sound.

 

I needed the bypass on my C5 but have never needed it on my C6. It never seems to come up.

 

The first couple of weeks I owned my Vette the CAGS feature drove me nuts. But after reading some posts here on the forum and my manual it has really become a non-issue for me. I usually accelerate briskly enough that I am outside the CAGS parameters. If I get a push to 4th gear and my speed feels too slow I just push up into 3rd gear without even thinking about it. I actually have the smart fuse but never put it in. Have fun!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e32TPhI1Z18

There's an install video I made using the disconnect plug kit.

http://store.tkoperformance.com/c5c6casdiplk.html

It's more work, but you are actually physically disconnecting the skip shift where as to me the fuse method just seemed like a hack.

 

They both do exactly the same thing. If one is a hack, so is the other. You can not just unplug the cags at the trans because the ecm will see the open circuit and set off a check engine light. The blown fuse and the $20 plug in at the trans connector do the same thing, they each provide a very small resistance so that the ecm believes that the cags solenoid is still functioning.

The fuse costs $2, can be installed under the hood and does not leave wires dangling under the car.

The $20 comercial unit requires you to crawl under the car and zip tie the wire up so it does not dangle.

 

From what I've seen on this forum, I've seen far more blown fuses + resistors fail than the disconnect plug.

By hack I meant one method is taking a $2 blown fuse and adding resistance to it and the other is disconnecting the end point and using a potted resistor at the end to close the circuit. Sure they're both doing the same thing essentially, but the latter seems like a more thorough solution to me.

 

And my impression is that as many of the disconnect plugs underbody have failed as the fuse. So to me, far easier to pop a new blown fuse in than having to put the car up on ramps to fix/change the plug in module. As you said, electrically they both do the same thing. Lets see, a one dollar fuse and 30 seconds to change compared to the $20 module and the time to get under the car and change it. And they both do the EXACT same thing electrically.
That's why i have had the fuse in for almost 2 years and not one CEL.

 

if i do put in the fuse and get the CEL after the fuse fails will a new fuse reset the CEL?