Changing Oil on Dry Sump Engine
07-06-2010, 09:23 PM
#1
Changing Oil on Dry Sump Engine
Changing oil on C6 "base" model is fairly straight forward. Can anyone post the procedure for changing the oil on the GS with dry sump engine? Does the GS use the same oil filter as base model? How much oil for oil change?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
07-06-2010, 11:10 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Same procedure as the base C6 with the following exceptions:
Two drain plugs to remove in the oil pan instead of one.
Per Owners Manual use AC Delco Oil Filter UPF48R.
Per owners manual add 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30 fully synthetic engine oil directly into sump tank located under hood on passenger side adjacent to firewall.
Regards,
GSRANDY
Two drain plugs to remove in the oil pan instead of one.
Per Owners Manual use AC Delco Oil Filter UPF48R.
Per owners manual add 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30 fully synthetic engine oil directly into sump tank located under hood on passenger side adjacent to firewall.
Regards,
GSRANDY
07-06-2010, 11:12 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Same procedure as the base C6 with the following exceptions:
Two drain plugs to remove in the oil pan instead of one.
Per Owners Manual use AC Delco Oil Filter UPF48R.
Per owners manual add 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30 fully synthetic engine oil directly into sump tank located under hood on passenger side adjacent to firewall.
Regards,
GSRANDY
Two drain plugs to remove in the oil pan instead of one.
Per Owners Manual use AC Delco Oil Filter UPF48R.
Per owners manual add 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30 fully synthetic engine oil directly into sump tank located under hood on passenger side adjacent to firewall.
Regards,
GSRANDY
07-07-2010, 01:05 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 1999
Location: Scottsdale AZ
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St. Jude Donor '11
Just had mine changed, after my first 2000 miles, before a long trip. It was free, for the first one, but the rest will be twice the cost of a regular C6!
Yes... 10.5 quarts of Mobile One. Actually, they all round up. So the cost would have been for 11 quarts.
It has been posted here before. A caution. If you don't do it yourself, make sure the dealer, etc., understands it is the dry sump manual. Otherwise you might end up with six quarts of oil. Four and a half short. So, as recommended, check it when you get home.
Yes... 10.5 quarts of Mobile One. Actually, they all round up. So the cost would have been for 11 quarts.
It has been posted here before. A caution. If you don't do it yourself, make sure the dealer, etc., understands it is the dry sump manual. Otherwise you might end up with six quarts of oil. Four and a half short. So, as recommended, check it when you get home.
07-07-2010, 08:28 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
07-07-2010, 10:30 AM
#12
Team Owner
PF48 filters were installed at the factory on 2006, 2007, 2008 and early build 2009 Z06's. The PF48 filter can be used and will hold up to the oil pressure and will not hurt your engine, but the UPF48R, Mobil1 M1-113 and K&N HP-1017 filters are better choices, in my opinion. If you don't want to use the UPF48R, Mobil1 or K&N, then I recommend using a WIX 57060 instead of the PF48 filter. IMO, the WIX filter is a higher quality filter then the PF48.
After you remove both drain plugs, flex the oil lines going into the side of the oil pan upward, a half dozen times. They are a little lower then the drainplug and will hold some old oil. I let my car drain for about an hour, then I replace the plugs and then I remove the oil filter(will have cooled down a bunch, so less likely to burn your hand). Make sure the old oil filter gasket comes off. Prefill the filter with new oil, lightly lube the gasket and install. Install the correct amount of oil(10.5 quarts in a GS dry sump) to the reservoir located at the rear passenger side of the engine compartment.
Start engine, check for leaks, let it warm up some, shut off the engine , wait 5 minutes and check level. Then, the next time you drive the car, re-check the oil level, waiting 5 minutes after shut down, to confirm oil level.
After you remove both drain plugs, flex the oil lines going into the side of the oil pan upward, a half dozen times. They are a little lower then the drainplug and will hold some old oil. I let my car drain for about an hour, then I replace the plugs and then I remove the oil filter(will have cooled down a bunch, so less likely to burn your hand). Make sure the old oil filter gasket comes off. Prefill the filter with new oil, lightly lube the gasket and install. Install the correct amount of oil(10.5 quarts in a GS dry sump) to the reservoir located at the rear passenger side of the engine compartment.
Start engine, check for leaks, let it warm up some, shut off the engine , wait 5 minutes and check level. Then, the next time you drive the car, re-check the oil level, waiting 5 minutes after shut down, to confirm oil level.
07-07-2010, 11:45 AM
#13
Race Director
It's interesting you should mention this, because I've often wondered if GM has adjusted the oil life monitor algorithm in the dry sump cars to account for the fact that the oil won't break down as fast with that larger capacity. I suspect they haven't changed a thing with the OLM though, so that simply means that those people with the dry sump engines can most definitely trust their oil life monitor to the fullest, as they've got an even greater margin of safety once it counts down to zero.
07-07-2010, 12:39 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
I don't know if anyone does this when changing oil but I usually add half the new oil then start the engine for about 10 seconds then shut the engine off and add the rest of the oil. This way the oil pressure isn't through the roof on the first start after the oil change. This may be different with the dry sump but its just something I have always been used to doing.
07-07-2010, 12:55 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: North Western Connecticut
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It's interesting you should mention this, because I've often wondered if GM has adjusted the oil life monitor algorithm in the dry sump cars to account for the fact that the oil won't break down as fast with that larger capacity. I suspect they haven't changed a thing with the OLM though, so that simply means that those people with the dry sump engines can most definitely trust their oil life monitor to the fullest, as they've got an even greater margin of safety once it counts down to zero.
Either way it's an interesting question to pose to GM. Wonder what the owners manual says for the GS manual and Z06? I would think it says something about how miles you can run before changing it.
07-07-2010, 12:55 PM
#17
Are the drain plugs next to each other on the side of the oil pan?
When refilling with oil, does the oil cap on the engine come into play at all or do you just fill the sump? I have not seen the engine on the GS, that is why I am asking. Any photos, anyone.
Thanks again.
When refilling with oil, does the oil cap on the engine come into play at all or do you just fill the sump? I have not seen the engine on the GS, that is why I am asking. Any photos, anyone.
Thanks again.
07-07-2010, 12:59 PM
#18
Team Owner
One plug is on the side, near the oil filter and the other is at the front. The rear plug drains the oil in the oil pan sump and the front plug drains the oil reservoir. ONLY add oil to the reservoir, never to the oil cap on the engine.
07-07-2010, 05:58 PM
#20
Race Director
Be a good question to ask GM... If they didn't change it.. why not? Seems like some owners might be prematurely dumping a lot of oil if the algorithm wasn't changed? At 11 qts of synthetic that's not a cheap oil change especially if you don't do it yourself.
Either way it's an interesting question to pose to GM. Wonder what the owners manual says for the GS manual and Z06? I would think it says something about how miles you can run before changing it.
Either way it's an interesting question to pose to GM. Wonder what the owners manual says for the GS manual and Z06? I would think it says something about how miles you can run before changing it.