rovers2000

I would be real carful cutting a 2 x2 hole that you drill rebar into the old cement and that the new cement underlaps the old cement by 6 inchs or so. New cement should not be drilled for the lift for a week or so at least. Cement can take years to fully cure.

7thgeneration

Maybe I'm missing something but just exactly where does the "portability" come in ?

rovers2000

there is 5 bolts in each tower that can be removed and then you can wheel the tower to another location. The hydralic pump is on wheels and the hoses have quick cuplers.

John in MD

Costco has it on their website for $1899 delivered.

I didn't know this thing existed until today. Now I want one!

John

superdutymike27

Very good idea and a safe way to approach this. And you may be very lucky to even have 4 inches of concrete. We have torn slabs up before and have even found in some area's less than 2 inches of concrete. I guess there right when they say you are only buying the the top 1/4" of concrete?

rovers2000

I love mine and wont get ride of it. Great for any project.

cencalc6

This was exactly what I did.My MaxJax lift is constantly being used 3-4 times a week with Absolutely No problems

ZBADESTZ@Straightline

You could get a 2x2 peice of diamond plate and mount it under each tower to distribute the weight.

Wish I had more headroom in the garage.

Nice set up

rovers2000

All you need for head room is around 8 to 9 feet.

cencalc6

I welded 3" washers on the bottom of the anchors for more support and then they were inserted in the cement while it was wet.

Gannet

Is that amount of lift really enough to work under the car comfortably, even using a stool?

A strange request, perhaps, but could one of you who has one of these lifts take a picture of yourself on your stool under the car? I love the idea of the low roof clearance needed, but I'm skeptical about the working room.

Thanks!

C2C6Z06

You need a really short stool, or better yet, a creeper. I routinely use a snap on tool seat and have to lean back a bit. I'm 6 4 so I get used to these things..

and ZBAD, the need for structural concrete under the MaxJax is not for distributing load down as one may think, but to hold the post down (think about the towers wanting to lean in toward each other), a larger plate wont generate that force but the bolts will in good concrete.

rovers2000

My ceiling is 8'10 inchs high and the roof of the car is 14 inchs from the ceiling.

Capt Van

I got mine when they first came out and I'm very happy with it. I got a few options with it, the motorcycle adapter and lift extensions 6" and 3". I also got 2 extra sets of mollies and bolts so I have 3 different locations for it in my garage. I set it up with 3 different widths for different applications this way I can lift the Rhino, Vettes, Yukon and even golf carts.

Here is the Z lifted. When it is lifted it was just about 2" too short to work comfortably on my work scooter so the 6" extensions work great here. What I have to do is put the pucks in the frame and lift it up enough to put 4 cinder blocks under the wheels then lower the lift so the 6" extensions will fit it then go ahead and lift, gives me plenty of room underneath



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Extension

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Here is the rockers at 52" plenty of head room
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I also have to use the extensions, both 6" and 3" to lift my 35 Terraplane

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I also have no problem lifting my Yukon Denali XL
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Harley
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even Golf carts
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Here is the pump system
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kev1n

I LOVE THIS! quick question, how much clearance do you need on the sides of the car for this lift? My garage absolutely sucks! I have a pole right in the middle, and barely any room on either sides of the car, I suppose this won't work for me right ?

TOCHOFGOLD

im in for a group buy

peter pan

Capt Van

I sent this thread onto Jason at Max Jax, lets see if he will jump in with some kind of group buy

TOCHOFGOLD

Great lets hope we can get a great deal on this Lift!!!!

rovers2000

I love the cinder block idea. That would be great to get the extra 6 inchs. I give a new meaning to putting your car up on blocks.