Cooling fan not working
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Cooling fan not working
Help. Today my C6 overheated and the cooling fan did not come on. So i checked the fuse and it is OK. Then I checked the fan to is if it was free and running smooth, and it is. I looked for a rely for the fan and did not find it. If I drive at fifty MPH or faster the temp stays in the 210-210 range.
Any suggestions? Where is the sensor for the water temp?
I need help guys.
Thanks in advance
Any suggestions? Where is the sensor for the water temp?
I need help guys.
Thanks in advance
#2
Team Owner
No personal experience, just passing on info I've seen here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...t-working.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...t-come-on.html
Good luck.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...t-working.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...t-come-on.html
Good luck.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
No personal experience, just passing on info I've seen here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...t-working.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...t-come-on.html
Good luck.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...t-working.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...t-come-on.html
Good luck.
#6
2nd Gear
Member Since: Aug 2010
Location: Tucson Arizona
Posts: 2
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c6 cooling fan failure
Same thing just happened to my 2008. Dealership replaced cooling fan module ($485) and sent me on my way. Never made it home. Took it back (where it is now) and they called Friday and said the ground wire to the module had worn thru and they replaced it. "Fan running now, but let us keep the car for a couple of days to test it" Hmmm.
#8
Same thing just happened to my 2008. Dealership replaced cooling fan module ($485) and sent me on my way. Never made it home. Took it back (where it is now) and they called Friday and said the ground wire to the module had worn thru and they replaced it. "Fan running now, but let us keep the car for a couple of days to test it" Hmmm.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
OK Here is the latest.
Continuity Tested the fan and it is OK. Pulled the # 25 fuse 60A and tested it's continuity and it is OK. Pulled the electrical connector apart and it looks brand new, perfect, no sign of corrosion on the top or bottom. .
So where is the sensor for the over heat fan?????? How can I test it.
I need help guys as I live 100 miles from a Chevy dealer that I think I might have trust in.
Continuity Tested the fan and it is OK. Pulled the # 25 fuse 60A and tested it's continuity and it is OK. Pulled the electrical connector apart and it looks brand new, perfect, no sign of corrosion on the top or bottom. .
So where is the sensor for the over heat fan?????? How can I test it.
I need help guys as I live 100 miles from a Chevy dealer that I think I might have trust in.
#10
Safety Car
When your A/C is on are the cooling fans running?? Did the car actually over heat? 210 in in the normal range...though it should be 190 -200 range when cruising.....
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Any body know where the sensor is for the fan??????
#12
Team Owner
The sensor that is telling you that the coolant is at 240 degrees is the same one that the computer uses to control the fan and make all its other decisions....so if it is displaying 240 degrees to you, then that means that the sensor is getting the proper info to the computer.
#14
Team Owner
The motor is a simple electric motor, not all that much to go wrong. I would bet on the module being bad. You can test the wires coming out of the module going to the fan motor and see if the module is sending it power. If you see significant voltage there, then the motor is getting current and is not spinning, so its bad. If the module does not send power to the motor, then something else is wrong, but it really requires test equipment because you need to see if the fan is being commanded on by the computer. If the computer is commanding on, then the module is the problem. Remember when checking the voltage that the fan is always commanded on when the A/C is running and the engine is warmed up.
#15
Safety Car
engine has a temperature sensor in it. It sends info to the computer and then it in turn sends a signal to the fan control module that powers up the fan. The temp gauge working would leave me to believe the sensor is working correctly and i doubt there is an issue with the computer. 2 possible common issues are the fan module or the fan itself.
A little technical to check the module but basically it has 5 wires, ground (black) , power (red) , one wire going to the computer (red/orange) , 2 wires going to the fan (red & Black) so check those and that shoudl help you diagnose it.
More then likely if the fan spins freely by hand its ok (usually when a fan goes out it locks up the fan) BUT the fan going bad can easily short out the module as well. so just slapping in a module may not do it. good luck, paul
A little technical to check the module but basically it has 5 wires, ground (black) , power (red) , one wire going to the computer (red/orange) , 2 wires going to the fan (red & Black) so check those and that shoudl help you diagnose it.
More then likely if the fan spins freely by hand its ok (usually when a fan goes out it locks up the fan) BUT the fan going bad can easily short out the module as well. so just slapping in a module may not do it. good luck, paul
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Fam Module
engine has a temperature sensor in it. It sends info to the computer and then it in turn sends a signal to the fan control module that powers up the fan. The temp gauge working would leave me to believe the sensor is working correctly and i doubt there is an issue with the computer. 2 possible common issues are the fan module or the fan itself.
A little technical to check the module but basically it has 5 wires, ground (black) , power (red) , one wire going to the computer (red/orange) , 2 wires going to the fan (red & Black) so check those and that shoudl help you diagnose it.
More then likely if the fan spins freely by hand its ok (usually when a fan goes out it locks up the fan) BUT the fan going bad can easily short out the module as well. so just slapping in a module may not do it. good luck, paul
A little technical to check the module but basically it has 5 wires, ground (black) , power (red) , one wire going to the computer (red/orange) , 2 wires going to the fan (red & Black) so check those and that shoudl help you diagnose it.
More then likely if the fan spins freely by hand its ok (usually when a fan goes out it locks up the fan) BUT the fan going bad can easily short out the module as well. so just slapping in a module may not do it. good luck, paul
Any thoughts??
Thanks again everybody
#17
Racer
So if I understand, they replaced the fan module which is up near the fan? What was the part number of the module. Just preparing for the future to see if it is worth the gamble to replace it. One of our vendors might be able to get a decent price on this module. Thanks
#18
Team Owner
Thats' expensive...the module only sells for $240 MSRP and $156 on Gene's site. I can't imagine that it would be more than a one hour job to replace.
It is just a glorified relay, but remember that it is not a simple on-off relay but a transistorized unit that allows the fan to run at different levels between 10 and 90% of max speed.
It is just a glorified relay, but remember that it is not a simple on-off relay but a transistorized unit that allows the fan to run at different levels between 10 and 90% of max speed.
Last edited by cclive; 10-08-2010 at 11:57 AM.
#20
I love this forum. I just saved a bunch of money at GIECO....
The 3 prong connector was fried just like the photo above.. dealer said they are aware of the problem, yet have no solution..
q. since it draws 25 amps why have a 60 amp fuse? could we run a 30-or 40 amp fuse to protect the rest of the system and the surge when it starts.
The 3 prong connector was fried just like the photo above.. dealer said they are aware of the problem, yet have no solution..
q. since it draws 25 amps why have a 60 amp fuse? could we run a 30-or 40 amp fuse to protect the rest of the system and the surge when it starts.