i have been thinking of buying a z06 or a 08 c6. on the z06 is there anything i should check if buying a 2006 since it was the first yr it came out? or should i look into the 07? on the c6 what would be better a 6spd or the auto with paddle shifters? thanks

 

can't comment on the z06 "look fors", but as far as manual vs. auto w/paddles... that a personal preference only you can decide.. of course, if you have a spouse who prefers auto than its a no brainer. Me, I'm manual all the way on performance cars... because i like to "drive them".. and in the mountains, nothing beats a manual for fun, saves your brakes too LOL... the auto with the paddles is sweet no doubt... but again, personal preference.

 

i guess i should have worded it 6spd vs paddles? lets say for racing would the paddle b better?

 

I dont' drag race mine.. so I'll let someone else comment. I know one thing, unless you are one heck of 6 speed guru... mother GM is gonna shift faster than you can. In the old days, it was not like that, but in todays auto tranny tech, an auto will beat you stop light to stop light every time...

 

Don't get a 2006, get a 2007 or newer if you are going with a Z06...

2008+ if you are going with a C6...

 

Your right on the $$ with your reply, however drag racing is NOT all about shifting... My (former) Drag Race Camaro had a "Liberty" 5 speed trans... it would make ANY auto look like granny... only problem a new Liberty costs about $6-7K

Also leaving the line... for the average person an auto is 100 x better and easier, and more consistent...with a manual just read the threads, ya gotta slip the clutch, or you might bog, or watch your RPM etc... etc..

With my Camaro (Purpose Built Race Car) with a Liberty Transmission, I would have a 2 step rev limiter...once I was on the line, I'd put the gas to the floor, and also have the clutch to the floor...with the clutch held down, the motor would only rev to a pre-determined RPM (I set it to 7000 rpm) at the flash of yellow on the starting tree, I just pop the clutch fast as I can...it (the clutch) has counter weights that work on centrifugal force .. that will determine how hard the clutch grabs..(same as slipping it) but much more consistent... Now for the "FUN" part.. when I had to shift to 2nd, 3rd, 4th, & 5th... i did NOT have to depress the clutch, and while shifting there is NO dog leg in the linkage, just yank the shifter straight back into 2nd.. then when I see the shift light, I just PUSH it forward to 3rd NO DOG LEG, & no clutch needed!!!

Now Thats a GREAT Manual Transmission!! the down side is ya cant use it on the street ....soooo Thats why I go with an automatic... JMO & Thoughts!

Also (not to be argumentative ) get some opinions from knowledgeable engine builders and/or tuners, and see what they think of a 6M vs an Automatic with a 3600 converter, and the correct gearing... "IMO" the 6M is gonna be in trouble...

 

I have a paddle shift auto and for the most part like it, but it doesn't immerse you in the experience as much as a manual would do. If you are buying this mostly to be a car, then the auto might be a better choice especially if you frequently end up in traffic jams. However, if it is mostly a toy a manual would be better. I'm 99% sure my next one will be a manual, but like wolfdogs says, it is a personal preference thing. I didn't choose the transmission when I bought mine. I chose the best deal I could find. It was the right approach at the time, but maybe not in the long run.

 

I've always wondered, what is the point in drag racing an automatic transmission car? I mean, where is sport in doing something that takes so little skill? With an automatic transmission it is simply a contest as to who spends the most on car modifications. Why not just compare income tax forms to determine who earns the most and be done with it?

 

That is why there is a type of Drag Racing called "Bracket Racing" If your car can run 10.20 & my car can run 12.20 you have to give me a 2 sec head start... and "IF" you or I run under the # on our window (10.20 & 12.20) that person would lose.. that is done to prevent sandbagging, and to permit a person who makes $40k to compete with a $100k person..

Also there is the little thing called "Reaction Time" how quick you react to the green light...

Yes you are correct that in "Heads Up" classes $$ Talks...but driver skill still has a lot to do with it...

Just for the hell of it have you ever driven a car that runs quicker than 10 sec.... even with an automatic things can get hairy...