which one should I buy? And, how do I connect it to a Grand Sport Coupe? Thanks.

 

I used the one that they sell at Wallmart for 20 dollars in the battery section. I use it on my boat, motorcycle and RV and no problem with it.

Comes with 2 wire to hook it up pemanently or clip it for temporary.

 

You will get a bunch if opinions. We make over 100M car batteries a year and this is the one I use. Jegs has them. They cost more, but they work extremely well.

http://www.jegs.com/i/PulseTech/704/100X010/10002/-1

Smart, Safe And Simple Pulse Maintenance Charger

This innovative, state-of-the-art battery charger automatically knows what to do so you don’t have to be a battery expert to use it. Unlike other smart chargers on the market, you don’t need to select the battery type or the proper charge rate to avoid the risk of unsafe or improper charging.

There’s no guess work involved because fuse protected, reverse polarity protected, spark-proof Xtreme Charge® works on every type of 12-volt lead-acid battery. Proprietary algorithms combined with microprocessor controlled technology measure the batteries voltage and current to automatically determine and deliver the precise charge rate based on the size and condition of the individual battery, both initially and continuously throughout the 5-stage charge process.

Xtreme Charge is more than a battery charger and maintainer. During the maintenance cycle, PulseTech’s patented, optimized high frequency pulsing constantly works to minimize and reduce naturally occurring battery sulfation, the main cause of battery failures. By reducing the size and number of lead sulfate deposits inside your battery that negatively affect your batteries ability to accept, store and release energy, your battery will charge deeper, maintain greater reserve capacity, and last up to five times longer.

The Xtreme Charge is ideally suited for AGM and Maintenance-Free Batteries. The combination of PulseTech’s patented pulse technology and proprietary charging algorithm allows it to charge these high-performance batteries more fully while maintaining a safe charge profile for traditional batteries.

Includes fuse-protected quick-disconnect battery clamps and lugs, Important Safety Instructions and Quick-Start Guide. The Xtreme Charge is fuse-protected, spark-proof, and is UL and CE certified.

Comes with a Five-Year Warranty

 

someone will have to tell you how to connect, but there's about 10 different brands from both vendors here on CF as well as just about any auto parts stores, plus Wally world and Harbor Freight. I even saw a $9 one at Target one day. The Wallys are Schumachers and run now about $24. Harbor supposedly has them for $10 or so. I've seen Battery Tenders or Tender Jrs. at Pep for maybe $25. And here, there's Ctek, and other brands vendors sell.

Me, I've got one of the Schumachers modified by my friend to plug into my lighter and I string it thru the driver's window.

 

I use the reliable and well rated Battery Tender on my '10 GS Coupe hooked up to + battery terminal in the fuse compartment and - to the bolt as depicted on page 6-53 of the Owner's Manual. I can close the hood if I want without crimping the cable, then hook up the rest of the Battery Tender. Works great, just the same as hooking it direct to the battery in the cubby hole if you choose that route.

Page 6-53..
4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and
negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle.
Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) terminal (A)
and a remote negative (−) terminal (B), as shown
in the illustration, which should be used to jump start
your vehicle.
The remote positive (+) terminal (A) can be
accessed by opening the cover of the engine
compartment fuse block.
The remote negative (−) terminal (B) is located
underneath the engine cover, below the engine oil
fill cap.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14
for the location of the engine compartment fuse
block and engine oil fill cap.
You will not need to access the battery for jump
starting. The remote terminals are for that purpose

 

I've got a Schumacher but it only goes as low as 2 amp trickle and although I used it for years I got overly concerned and bought a Battery Tender that runs at 1.5 amp. I'm not sure if it matters but I just feel more relaxed using it.

 

http://www.batterytender.com/


This is what I use.


TIM$VETT

 

I have the CTEK 3300 and the optional Accessory outlet adapter. It's a little more expensive but it has several 'stages' of maintenance that will keep your battery in tip top shape.

Also it's very easy to connect to the outlet in the center console using the adapter.


Watch this for more info:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHSI_...eature=related

.
.

 

I bought a Schumacher 1.5 amp at Wal-mart last year for $21. They have float mode monitoring so it only charges when needed. Also has a feature for sulfated batteries to charge/help them as well.

Like it so well i bought a 2nd one 6 months ago for the other vette.

 

No reason for one...just start car once a week and run for 20 mn...my first battery lasted well over 4 years and I replaced before it died...

 

I have a CTEK 3300 with the optional adaptor. I plug it into the center console and it works like a charm. No problems. No unhooking of battery cables, etc.

 

Florida's temps don't quite compare to what we in the cold climate deal with. In extremely cold temps one week is way more than enough time to completely drain a battery.

 

I bought one from sears.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1

 

While it is difficult to quantify the extra wear from cold starts and extended idle - it's safe to say it makes much more sense to put it on a maintainer. a few come to mind:

1. most wear occures on engine start up (albeit - you have to start them to drive them)
2. it's better to use a charger than your alternator to maintain your battery
3. extended idle is not good for the catalysts
4. 20 minute idle - you are not heating the oil enough to cook off the water, however, you are heating it enough so that condensate will form after it cools to ambient, so in effect, you are adding a little water to your oil each time
5. this doesn't apply to our cars, but with old school engines (w/ flat tappet cams) extended idling causes cam lobe wear

If you were refering to DRIVING the car once a week, then that's different. That's a good idea as long as you drive it long enough to heat the oil long enough to cook the water out.

 

I use the float chargers that I picked up at Harbor Freight for under $10 each. I like them because they have no switches or buttons to manipulate, They're made for dummies like me. Connect the red and black leads and then plug into the wall receptacle. What could be easier?

Use them on my 09 Z06 , my 56 and 64 Vettes and my lawnmower. Been using them for years without any problems.

There is a (+) power lug under the lid of the underhood fuse box for the red alligator clip and then connect the black alligator clip to the ground connection on the frame rail under and behind the fuse box.

 

To the OP:

I wired the ring terminals from the battery tender supplied harness to the small screw on each battery terminal. A better method is to buy another nut and sandwich the ring terminal between the original nut and the added one.

I know your GS battery is in the back, but I believe there are terminals under the hood so you can connect in a similar manner.



I bought a 12 foot extension harness made for the battery tender from batterymart.com. I put it all under the hood, and routed it out through the front grill, secured it with a tie wrap, and left enough length to fold it back in place when not connected. I can hook it up without ever raising the hood.

Just be sure to put a red rag on the windshield when it's hooked up so you don't forget and hop in and drive.



There you go - no need to ever raise the hood to plug it in. Just like an electric car, with 436 HP

One more thing - careful with the cheap trickle chargers - they can over charge a battery. The maintainers (like battery tender) have voltage regulators and a brain, so they back off current when the battery reaches target voltage.

 

I've got a CTEK 3300 with the Accessory adapter on my Grand Sport coupe, the cord will run throught the rain slot in the bottom of the passenger door. I've got the cover on, and the cord runs out the bottom of the passenger door, and I have the unit on a small table next to the car where I can keep a check on it. The CTEK is a bit more money, but comes highly recommended by a lot of owners, not just Vette owners.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...post1576146423

 

When I learned that the Corvette Museum actually uses the Battery Tender brand in house, that was all I needed to know.

The Battery Tender comes with alligator clips, which I don't use and it also comes with a "pigtail" that you can attach to the battery terminals and leave connected under the hood. When you want to connect the Battery Tender, you just plug it into the "pigtail" and you're good to go.

I simply take a micro fiber cloth and drape it over the fender next to the battery. Then I plug the cord from the Battery Tender into the pigtail under the hood, using the micro fiber cloth as a buffer under the cord. Next I carefully lower the hood so it stops at the catches. This leaves plenty of room for the connections without binding.

The reason I connect this way is that it is impossible to get in the car and forget that the unit is connected! You can see the yellow micro fiber cloth and the slightly raised hood readily. Works like a champ and no goofs!

Oh yeah, and I think this is particularly important: I connect the Battery Tender to a good quality surge protector! No way am I going to risk the delicate electronics of the C6 to an unexpected power surge!

 

As far as how you connect a Battery Tender or whatever you decide to use to your Grand Sport, if you have the battery in the rear check out the fuse box under the hood. Pop the top off that and hook the positive up there and the negative can go to ANY good grounding location around the engine.