Pre-deployment question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 26
From: Oxnard CA
Pre-deployment question
Good morning all,
Sorry for the Noob question.
I'm headed out the door on deployment in middle Feb. my car has been covered since November. We are expecting some weather this weekend in the 50-55 degree range. (can't drive it, insurance status is stored).
I know that majority of engine wear comes from cold start ups, but I was wonder if it's a good idea to start the car up for a few minutes to get the oil circulating and getting the metal parts coated again.
so to make a long story longer...
The car has been parked and not started since Nov and I won't be back until Sept 2011. Is it better to just leave it like it is or is there any benefit to starting it (stored 10 months or oil circulated and stored 6 months)?
Sorry for the Noob question.
I'm headed out the door on deployment in middle Feb. my car has been covered since November. We are expecting some weather this weekend in the 50-55 degree range. (can't drive it, insurance status is stored).
I know that majority of engine wear comes from cold start ups, but I was wonder if it's a good idea to start the car up for a few minutes to get the oil circulating and getting the metal parts coated again.
so to make a long story longer...
The car has been parked and not started since Nov and I won't be back until Sept 2011. Is it better to just leave it like it is or is there any benefit to starting it (stored 10 months or oil circulated and stored 6 months)?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 224
From: Manitowoc WI
I've always felt that you could do more damage to an engine starting it and letting it run for a bit and then shutting it down before reaching operating temperature. When storing a vehicle I've always driven it for a bit to reach operating temperature and then changed the oil before storing. I tried using Stabil in the fuel on my '66 once and it seemed to really cause massive engine ping when I fired the car up in spring so I've avoided that fuel preserver since then, just make sure the fuel in your car does not contain ethanol as it does not store well. Also, make sure you have a battery tender connected if you are leaving the battery connected in the car.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,040
Likes: 2
From: Long Island New York
as above stated,a charger is a must...ctek is what i use.
you could also fill the tank to the tippy-top to ensure no condensation.
I do this with my snowmobiles and no need for Stabil
cheers
you could also fill the tank to the tippy-top to ensure no condensation.
I do this with my snowmobiles and no need for Stabil
cheers
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,113
Likes: 8
From: Pottsboro; Sometimes Dallas Texas
St. Jude Donor '12
I have to agree with above. If it's NOT going to be driven and oil up to at least 130-140 I would NOT. If it will sit till end of summer I would DEFINITELY add fuel stbilizer into the tank. Last thing you need is the internals getting "varnished" by rotting fuel.
That happened to my boat and the fuel pump/lines and virtually everything the fuel touched was either damaged or ruined because fuel had varnished everything. Add fuel stabil if you haven't already. Good luck.
add: if you have not added stabil then it WILL need to be started when you do. Get oil to at least 130 degrees when ya do. That will help keep moisture down.
That happened to my boat and the fuel pump/lines and virtually everything the fuel touched was either damaged or ruined because fuel had varnished everything. Add fuel stabil if you haven't already. Good luck.
add: if you have not added stabil then it WILL need to be started when you do. Get oil to at least 130 degrees when ya do. That will help keep moisture down.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
From: Camp Lejeune NC
Stay safe too
Try to fill with non-ethanol gas if possible and add stabilizer also. Run one last time to get stabilized fuel throughout system. Change oil also. Hook up a battery tender(not a charger). Use a top of the line cover. No cheap stuff.
Its not good to start a car a couple times a month and idle it for a few minutes. It get warm enough to produce condensation when it cools but never warm enough to burn it off. You just end up making water over a long period of time.
Your best bet would be to get the insurance turned back on and have me pick it up and take care of it for you. I live on a USMC base and can drive it every Sunday for 30 miles.
Its not good to start a car a couple times a month and idle it for a few minutes. It get warm enough to produce condensation when it cools but never warm enough to burn it off. You just end up making water over a long period of time.
Your best bet would be to get the insurance turned back on and have me pick it up and take care of it for you. I live on a USMC base and can drive it every Sunday for 30 miles.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 26
From: Oxnard CA
Try to fill with non-ethanol gas if possible and add stabilizer also. Run one last time to get stabilized fuel throughout system. Change oil also. Hook up a battery tender(not a charger). Use a top of the line cover. No cheap stuff.
Its not good to start a car a couple times a month and idle it for a few minutes. It get warm enough to produce condensation when it cools but never warm enough to burn it off. You just end up making water over a long period of time.
Your best bet would be to get the insurance turned back on and have me pick it up and take care of it for you. I live on a USMC base and can drive it every Sunday for 30 miles.
Its not good to start a car a couple times a month and idle it for a few minutes. It get warm enough to produce condensation when it cools but never warm enough to burn it off. You just end up making water over a long period of time.
Your best bet would be to get the insurance turned back on and have me pick it up and take care of it for you. I live on a USMC base and can drive it every Sunday for 30 miles.
thanks for the offer. Thanks for all the good advice guys. The car is stored properly (sta-bil, full tank of fuel and the CTek 3300 is plugged in and she is covered). I was more concerned about the lack of lubrication on mechanical parts for 11 months.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 46,295
Likes: 2,596
From: Northern, VA
St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
if you read about this, at one point it made sense. now, it doesn't. leave it the way it is and it will be ready when you get back. good luck and be safe.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Racer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 485
Likes: 1
From: Texas
I would start it once a month. The benefits of re-lubricating the engine outweigh the risk of moisture buildup. If you're concerned about moisture, you can always change the oil at the end of the storage period.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 26
From: Oxnard CA
That's the plan. The car currently has 750 miles on and it will exceed the 12 month mark for my personal maintenance plan (I won't hit the mileage so the plan is to change the oil annually).
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 390
Likes: 9
From: Bloomington MN
Last edited by purvistechie; Jan 26, 2011 at 09:56 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Rohnert Park Ca
While I was deployed, I kept it covered and stabil in the tank. Came home on mid tour and took it out as mush as possible and then back in the garage under cover for the remainder. Once I got home, oil change and all was good.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 743
From: Lincoln Nebraska
Firstly, THANKS for your service!!!
Has anyone used fogging oil on their Corvette for extended storage? It's real common to use this on Harleys that are going to be sitting for a while. The spark plugs are removed, the cylinders are sprayed and the plugs replaced.
Has anyone used fogging oil on their Corvette for extended storage? It's real common to use this on Harleys that are going to be sitting for a while. The spark plugs are removed, the cylinders are sprayed and the plugs replaced.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
From: Camp Lejeune NC
Firstly, THANKS for your service!!!
Has anyone used fogging oil on their Corvette for extended storage? It's real common to use this on Harleys that are going to be sitting for a while. The spark plugs are removed, the cylinders are sprayed and the plugs replaced.
Has anyone used fogging oil on their Corvette for extended storage? It's real common to use this on Harleys that are going to be sitting for a while. The spark plugs are removed, the cylinders are sprayed and the plugs replaced.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 265
Likes: 14
From: Tucson, Arizona
I have a 3-car garage, and I routinely store my buds' sports cars when they are deployed (for free, of course). I put 'em inside my garage, hook up my battery tender for 'em, cover 'em (if they want), and drive 'em every other week long enough to keep the fluids moving and the condensation problems away.
You probably have some buds that you trust who would do something like this just for the asking, no?
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
From: Camp Lejeune NC
You probably have some buds that you trust who would do something like this just for the asking, no?
My friends would probably trust me with most of their stuff with exception to their booze and women(they can't help themselves).
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 8
From: Clearwater Florida
Good luck finding that no-ethanol gas! I would recommend the Stabil variety that is recommended for fuel with ethanol. If you have it already, I wouldn't start the car unless you can let it run up to temperature. If you don't have it, I would recommend adding it and running engine until up to temperature. Some of us in Florida used to live in the great white north where snow covers the ground all winter. My experieince with old gas is why I recommend Stabil. I have also had cars comeout of storage with seals in the master cylinders leaking and hydraulic clutches non-functioning. Moisture in systems can really screw with these systems. Ethanol in fuel absorbs moisture and that creates a problem during storage.