Wheel Removal
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Joined: Feb 2011
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Wheel Removal
I know I'll get flamed for this but I can't remove my rear wheels. All five nuts are off and I swear I could drop the car right now and run it and I don't think the wheels would come off. Any suggestions on how to break them loose?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Huntsville Alabama
Race Director
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From: Edmond Oklahoma
Sounds like the wheel may be rusted to the rotor face. I would get a large rubber mallet and tap it them from the inside to break the wheel loose. If you don't have a mallet you can use a 2X4 and a 2 pound metal hammer to hit the 2X4 from the inside. You could also use some penetrating oil spray where the back of the wheel hub contacts the face of the brake rotor and let it work for a while before using the mallet.
I can't imagine anything else that would be holding the wheel on. The 5 lug nuts are the only thing that holds it on.
I can't imagine anything else that would be holding the wheel on. The 5 lug nuts are the only thing that holds it on.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: West of Burlington, Ontario Canada
If the rubber mallet doesn't work, cover the wheel with a beach towel (so you don't scratch the rim) and sit on the ground (or stand with your back to the wheel) and hoof it on the right then left until it comes off. Put a couple of the nuts on almost all the way so the wheel doesn't fall off and get scratched. Then clean the corrosion off and apply a little anti seize on the hub area (not on the threads) so it won't happen again. I've had them seize so bad that I had to put all the nuts back on within a thread or two of all the way and drive the car and nail the brakes to free the rim from the hub.
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From: Northern, VA
St. Jude Donor '15
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both good ideas below. it's just that the wheel has gotten slightly stuck to hub. just take it easy when pushing on the tire with your feet---you don't want to bend/break a stud. or as said, have the wheel fall off.
and if you use the penetrating fluid, it's a bit tricky not to overspray toward rotors. I'd try the "mechanical" foot method first.
and if you use the penetrating fluid, it's a bit tricky not to overspray toward rotors. I'd try the "mechanical" foot method first.
If the rubber mallet doesn't work, cover the wheel with a beach towel (so you don't scratch the rim) and sit on the ground (or stand with your back to the wheel) and hoof it on the right then left until it comes off. Put a couple of the nuts on almost all the way so the wheel doesn't fall off and get scratched. Then clean the corrosion off and apply a little anti seize on the hub area (not on the threads) so it won't happen again. I've had them seize so bad that I had to put all the nuts back on within a thread or two of all the way and drive the car and nail the brakes to free the rim from the hub.
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Tighten one side again, and on the other, put the lug nuts on, but loose, maybe a turn or two loose, let the car down onto the ground again, and rock the car side to side. the wheel should break free. Repeat on the other side. I had to do this on my van and they were a B$%#h. But it worked, and I then coated the hub with antisieze, and last time I took them off they removed without a problem. Always torque your lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench in a star pattern.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: West of Burlington, Ontario Canada
Glad to hear you got it off. You could have kicked it from the outside though. Recently had a 2005 Mustang in with all four wheels seized. Took the car out and at 20 MPH needed to hammer the brakes to a complete lock up 5 times to snap the wheels loose. Not the worst I've seen though. I remember cutting a rim off of a 78 Ford LTD with a torch because all other methods failed. Aluminum and steel mixed with road salt equal big trouble if not lubricated.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Tighten one side again, and on the other, put the lug nuts on, but loose, maybe a turn or two loose, let the car down onto the ground again, and rock the car side to side. the wheel should break free. Repeat on the other side. I had to do this on my van and they were a B$%#h. But it worked, and I then coated the hub with antisieze, and last time I took them off they removed without a problem. Always torque your lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench in a star pattern.
Bill
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From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
If the rubber mallet doesn't work, cover the wheel with a beach towel (so you don't scratch the rim) and sit on the ground (or stand with your back to the wheel) and hoof it on the right then left until it comes off. Put a couple of the nuts on almost all the way so the wheel doesn't fall off and get scratched. Then clean the corrosion off and apply a little anti seize on the hub area (not on the threads) so it won't happen again. I've had them seize so bad that I had to put all the nuts back on within a thread or two of all the way and drive the car and nail the brakes to free the rim from the hub.
No personal way to know if this is correct, but it sounds like a logical possibility. People do use antiseize without problems, but maybe it's not a good idea.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Edmond Oklahoma
Yep! the only thing that it could have been was rusted on. Like I said in the post "there is nothing else that holds the wheel on but the 5 lug nuts". Before reinstalling the wheels be sure that you clean all the rust off of the wheel and the rotor, then just use dome WD-40 or such so it won't happen again. 