Check engine light help?
03-28-2011, 10:51 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Check engine light help?
Finally was able to get my '05 mn6 Z51 out from winter storage a few days ago and after it warmed up the check engine light came on. So today I took it down to Advanced Auto and they checked it out. They said the code was "803" and the description was "upshift solenoid sensor"??
Does anyone have a clue what this is related to? I'm not a real wiz mechanically - something I should be talking to a shop about?
Does anyone have a clue what this is related to? I'm not a real wiz mechanically - something I should be talking to a shop about?
03-28-2011, 11:11 PM
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
03-29-2011, 02:20 PM
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Bingo! Took a look and just as you thought the LED was out. Changed it out and back in business. Always a little leary when it's been in mothballs for awhile.
Thanks John!!
Thanks John!!
03-30-2011, 11:16 AM
#8
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Glad that fixed it. I have a feeling the lifetime of these Smart fuse LED's is about 2 years. After all, they were only intended to give a visual alert of a blown fuse. Fortunately the cost is minimal.
05-03-2015, 05:15 PM
#9
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Check engine light on 803 code
New to the forum. I first changed skip shift solenoid because of light on and was leaking a little. After resetting the light came back on a day later. So I read about the blown smart fuse. I have no 30 amp slots to blow the fuse. So I tried drilling a tiny hole in the fuse to break the loop in fuse. it never lit up so probably wasted it. Let me ask the stupid question how do I blow this fuse.
05-03-2015, 05:44 PM
#10
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2020 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16,'17,'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
New to the forum. I first changed skip shift solenoid because of light on and was leaking a little. After resetting the light came back on a day later. So I read about the blown smart fuse. I have no 30 amp slots to blow the fuse. So I tried drilling a tiny hole in the fuse to break the loop in fuse. it never lit up so probably wasted it. Let me ask the stupid question how do I blow this fuse.
05-03-2015, 11:07 PM
#11
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That was easy I turned the key on I can see the fuse glowing. I reset the light by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes. I Started the car no light. I took it for a ride so far so good. As soon as I restart the car the light is back.
05-04-2015, 05:09 AM
#12
05-04-2015, 10:04 PM
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05-05-2015, 08:48 AM
#14
The C5 had to have the cags elimintor installed at the trans, since fuse 10 was used from more than just the cags system on that car.
The trans plug devices that you speak of, is just a 2.2K resistor that is mounted down line on the C-5 past the other devices on fuse 10 in that car.
So back to the C-6, and since its only the CAGS system on fuse 10, it just a matter of installing the 2.2K fuse in the fuse box (instead of having to crawl under the car to install it down line instead with the plug type adapter that was required on the C5).
Note, if you do install the resistor at the trans (the plug type resistor kit), then swap out the fuse 10 in the fuse box to a standard 10 amp fuse. The reason for this, will have two 2.2K fuse in line, equaling 4.4K resistance, and the car will throw a code again. As pointed out, the concept here is so the car can see the Cags solenoid in the trans when it does a voltage feed back check through it (so you don't get a code) , but not allow enough power to be sent to it to activate it instead.
So the options are, blow a glow fuse and use it until the LED burns out and replace it with another blows smart fuse.
Make a 2.2k resistor fuse (or have someone make if for you that knows how to solder),
Buy a 2.2K resistor fuse already made instead.
Note, make sure that you are actual buying a resistor fuse, and not someone just selling a over priced blown smart fuse instead.
The positive on the 2.2K resistor fuse over the blown glow fuse, it not going to burn out.
Or, if you have the car tuned, then the CAGS system can be shut off in the tune (setting change of the demand for it to kick in), and no resistor fuse is needed (just used a standard 10amp fuse)/the dash light for 1 to 4 never comes on instead.
The trans plug devices that you speak of, is just a 2.2K resistor that is mounted down line on the C-5 past the other devices on fuse 10 in that car.
So back to the C-6, and since its only the CAGS system on fuse 10, it just a matter of installing the 2.2K fuse in the fuse box (instead of having to crawl under the car to install it down line instead with the plug type adapter that was required on the C5).
Note, if you do install the resistor at the trans (the plug type resistor kit), then swap out the fuse 10 in the fuse box to a standard 10 amp fuse. The reason for this, will have two 2.2K fuse in line, equaling 4.4K resistance, and the car will throw a code again. As pointed out, the concept here is so the car can see the Cags solenoid in the trans when it does a voltage feed back check through it (so you don't get a code) , but not allow enough power to be sent to it to activate it instead.
So the options are, blow a glow fuse and use it until the LED burns out and replace it with another blows smart fuse.
Make a 2.2k resistor fuse (or have someone make if for you that knows how to solder),
Buy a 2.2K resistor fuse already made instead.
Note, make sure that you are actual buying a resistor fuse, and not someone just selling a over priced blown smart fuse instead.
The positive on the 2.2K resistor fuse over the blown glow fuse, it not going to burn out.
Or, if you have the car tuned, then the CAGS system can be shut off in the tune (setting change of the demand for it to kick in), and no resistor fuse is needed (just used a standard 10amp fuse)/the dash light for 1 to 4 never comes on instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 05-05-2015 at 08:57 AM.
05-05-2015, 08:39 PM
#16
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The C5 had to have the cags elimintor installed at the trans, since fuse 10 was used from more than just the cags system on that car.
The trans plug devices that you speak of, is just a 2.2K resistor that is mounted down line on the C-5 past the other devices on fuse 10 in that car.
So back to the C-6, and since its only the CAGS system on fuse 10, it just a matter of installing the 2.2K fuse in the fuse box (instead of having to crawl under the car to install it down line instead with the plug type adapter that was required on the C5).
Note, if you do install the resistor at the trans (the plug type resistor kit), then swap out the fuse 10 in the fuse box to a standard 10 amp fuse. The reason for this, will have two 2.2K fuse in line, equaling 4.4K resistance, Ty and the car will throw a code again. As pointed out, the concept here is so the car can see the Cags solenoid in the trans when it does a voltage feed back check through it (so you don't get a code) , but not allow enough power to be sent to it to activate it instead.
So the options are, blow a glow fuse and use it until the LED burns out and replace it with another blows smart fuse.
Make a 2.2k resistor fuse (or have someone make if for you that knows how to solder),
Buy a 2.2K resistor fuse already made instead.
Note, make sure that you are actual buying a resistor fuse, and not someone just selling a over priced blown smart fuse instead.
The positive on the 2.2K resistor fuse over the blown glow fuse, it not going to burn out.
Or, if you have the car tuned, then the CAGS system can be shut off in the tune (setting change of the demand for it to kick in), and no resistor fuse is needed (just used a standard 10amp fuse)/the dash light for 1 to 4 never comes on instead.
The trans plug devices that you speak of, is just a 2.2K resistor that is mounted down line on the C-5 past the other devices on fuse 10 in that car.
So back to the C-6, and since its only the CAGS system on fuse 10, it just a matter of installing the 2.2K fuse in the fuse box (instead of having to crawl under the car to install it down line instead with the plug type adapter that was required on the C5).
Note, if you do install the resistor at the trans (the plug type resistor kit), then swap out the fuse 10 in the fuse box to a standard 10 amp fuse. The reason for this, will have two 2.2K fuse in line, equaling 4.4K resistance, Ty and the car will throw a code again. As pointed out, the concept here is so the car can see the Cags solenoid in the trans when it does a voltage feed back check through it (so you don't get a code) , but not allow enough power to be sent to it to activate it instead.
So the options are, blow a glow fuse and use it until the LED burns out and replace it with another blows smart fuse.
Make a 2.2k resistor fuse (or have someone make if for you that knows how to solder),
Buy a 2.2K resistor fuse already made instead.
Note, make sure that you are actual buying a resistor fuse, and not someone just selling a over priced blown smart fuse instead.
The positive on the 2.2K resistor fuse over the blown glow fuse, it not going to burn out.
Or, if you have the car tuned, then the CAGS system can be shut off in the tune (setting change of the demand for it to kick in), and no resistor fuse is needed (just used a standard 10amp fuse)/the dash light for 1 to 4 never comes on instead.
Last edited by blueC6427; 05-05-2015 at 08:41 PM.