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Old 08-11-2012, 08:32 AM
  #61  
owebo
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St. Jude Donor '11, '16

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Originally Posted by SUB VETTE
Deionization runs water through a resin bed to remove mineral content ions from the water. It has no effect upn the hydrogen or hydroxide ions which are the natural content in water. The reader should look up "purified water" on Wikipedia where there is an excelent description of the deionization process, distilled water process, and other means of purifying water.

The process of flushing and refiling the coolant system advocated here by BRIM specifies distilled water which I used. However, to suggest that deionized water is corrosive to cooling systems is: BS . Deionized water is routinely used in the stainless steel coolant systems of nuclear power plants to prevent corrosion processes.


However, DI water is extremely aggressive to most metals. The example you cited in the nuke plants is not for corrosion but rather to limit scaling in the pipes.......
Old 08-11-2012, 10:24 AM
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Although it may cost more, I was thinking of draining and refilling with 50/50 Dexcool, running to operating temp and then draining/refilling one more time. That should replace almost all right?
Old 08-11-2012, 10:43 AM
  #63  
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I'd rather just pay a shop with one of the new type cooling system service machines. Then it gets the correct amount and no mess. Other wise this might work. http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Quartz-C...=crystal+*****

Last edited by Ketchum; 08-11-2012 at 10:45 AM.
Old 08-11-2012, 11:15 AM
  #64  
Tide Will Roll!
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I think I would try and wait till 7 years. Go by a dealership and let them top off the fluid and ask if they can test. It should be fine.
Bert

Roll Tide!

Originally Posted by JRfigo
I am curious about what you guys think I should do.

My C6 is 5 years old, only about 18,000 miles, mostly driven on the highway. The car is always in my garage.

The engine coolant is a bit low, can I just add some 50/50 coolant/water mix or should I definitely have it flushed out?
Old 08-11-2012, 11:41 AM
  #65  
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I sure would not wait 7 years on Dexcool. It can turn into some nasty crystallized cooling system stopping up mess. I've seen it first hand and have had to deal with it on used G.M. vehicles traded in. There is a reason they call for a 5 year life on it.

Last edited by Ketchum; 08-11-2012 at 04:49 PM.
Old 08-11-2012, 12:49 PM
  #66  
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Read your owners manual........for my owners manual.

What to Use
Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and
one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage
aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do
not need to add anything else

Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives
in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could
damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture
of the engine coolant listed in this manual for
the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information
Old 08-11-2012, 02:44 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Brim
Here are my notes that I gathered from the forum:

Change coolant every 5 years or 150,000 miles, which ever comes first.

Buy 2 gals Prestone Dex Cool (Walmart) and 6 gals distilled water. I used 5 gals of distilled water this year and flushed it twice. I think three flushes would have been better.

1) Drain coolant (drain plug is on passenger side). Approx. 8 qts out of 12.6 qts will actually drain.
2) Refill surge tank to the neck with distilled water. It will take a while to replace the 8 qts or whatever was drained.
3) Start engine, idle 4 min
4) Top off surge tank
5) Rev engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 2 more min. (temp should reach ~200 F)
6) Shutoff engine, cool for 20 minutes
7) Repeat steps 1-6 until fluid drains clear (2-4 flushes)
8) Refill with 6.3 qts Dex Cool (it's a slow process) and then top off with distilled water.
9) Repeat steps 3-5, take test drive, refill as necessary with distilled water.
10) Dispose of your old antifreeze at a recycling center.
Any need to run the heater for steps 3 through 5?
Old 08-11-2012, 03:30 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by JRfigo
I wish the GM dealers in NY were as honest with the service pricing as they seem to be around your area.
Not all dealers are honest. If you leave you car for this how would you really know they did it. There are some unscrupulous dealers that will add a bit of coolant to your system and tell you they did a complete flush and fill.
Old 08-11-2012, 03:38 PM
  #69  
owebo
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Originally Posted by important
Any need to run the heater for steps 3 through 5?
It seems from reading people here that the heater is not isolated from the system and is always on.....so there is no need to manipulate the heater like we did in the old days......
Old 08-11-2012, 04:04 PM
  #70  
carpe dm
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Change it.
Old 08-12-2012, 05:25 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Mike's Sweet 05


However I suggest you do 2 more simple steps:

1. before dumping the old coolant drive your car normally so it is at normal operating temperature and RECORD this value.

Good luck

Mike
I thought this was a really good suggestion. I just got my baseline temperature ranges at both highway and parking lot speeds (LS2 M6 Z51). Ambient temperature was about 84 degrees.

Oil temp. 200 - 214

Coolant temp. 190 - 210

Engine temp. 195-210

Last edited by important; 08-12-2012 at 05:29 PM.
Old 08-13-2012, 10:33 PM
  #72  
Gearhead Jim
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St. Jude Donor '13

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Originally Posted by important
I thought this was a really good suggestion. I just got my baseline temperature ranges at both highway and parking lot speeds (LS2 M6 Z51). Ambient temperature was about 84 degrees.

Oil temp. 200 - 214

Coolant temp. 190 - 210

Engine temp. 195-210
Now you've got me confused- what is this "Engine temp" you mentioned that is different from the Oil temp and Coolant temp?
Old 08-13-2012, 10:43 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Silver05GTO
If you bring it to GM, they'll just drain the radiator and refill the coolant.....my local dealer charges $120 for that.

I just did it this morning, needed 2 jugs of 50/50 dexcool from walmart total cost $22. Drained and refilled. I was also at the 5 yr mark and decided might as well do it.
That's exactly what dealer does which is something you can easily do yourself.
Old 08-13-2012, 10:45 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Ketchum
I'd rather just pay a shop with one of the new type cooling system service machines. Then it gets the correct amount and no mess. Other wise this might work. http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Quartz-C...=crystal+*****
They don't use a machine they just put a pan underneath and drain it then refill it with anti-freeze and water. Pretty simple no machine needed.
Old 08-13-2012, 10:48 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Foxer55
A way I have done radiator draining in the past to clean it out (but not yet on a Vette) was to open the insert a running hose into the fill spout, open the radiator valve, start the engine, adjust the hose flow in to the same amount coming out of the drain valve and let the car idle for a bit. Rev the engine if you want to get the water pump really turning. This continous draining should flush all the junk out. Be sure to turn the engine off before letting all the water drain out of the system and then fill as desired with whatever desired.

Remember to clean up any spilled coolant as the fauna and varmits will try to slurp it up and it will kill them. That includes the family dog. Not sure if this is true for Dex Cool.
On a conventional cooling system you can do this and I have done this on my other car flushing out everything until I get clear water running through radiator. On a corvette cooling system that is a closed system you can't. Just drain it and change it. No flush.
Old 08-13-2012, 10:52 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by JRfigo
I ended up going to the Chevrolet dealer and paying over $200.

The technician had the radiator drip out the old coolant. Then he washed with a hose the reservoir and then he added new coolant. He didn't use a special vacuum some of you mentioned, nor did he flush the radiator.

Also, the GM coolant he used was already premixed 50/50. I believe he only used 1 gallon. Is this correct?

What am I supposed to do here?

This is the way they do it again it's a closed system.
Old 08-13-2012, 10:55 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by SUB VETTE
Deionization runs water through a resin bed to remove mineral content ions from the water. It has no effect upn the hydrogen or hydroxide ions which are the natural content in water. The reader should look up "purified water" on Wikipedia where there is an excelent description of the deionization process, distilled water process, and other means of purifying water.

The process of flushing and refiling the coolant system advocated here by BRIM specifies distilled water which I used. However, to suggest that deionized water is corrosive to cooling systems is: BS . Deionized water is routinely used in the stainless steel coolant systems of nuclear power plants to prevent corrosion processes.
I have very hard water and in the process of flushing out cooling system on other car which is a conventional system, I found out after flushing out system using the hard water from hose some time after that I noticed inside what was a brand new radiator had scale/barnacles growing inside the radiator. I used distilled water in the fill but I suspect it was the hard water during the flushing process that ruined the new radiator.

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Old 08-13-2012, 11:00 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Cruncher
Tap water is used at Bowling Green. From what I've read, Dex-Cool will neutralize the minerals from tap water (per GM from what I remember & also a sticky in the C-5/C-6 section). For me, although it's much more expenseive, I use Prestone 50/50 pre-mixed, every three years, plus a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter for additional corrsion protection. I go to a fomer GM dealer that uses Wynn machines + Wynn chemicals.
I am using Amsoil anti-freeze which is very expensive and long lasting but it works great.
Old 08-13-2012, 11:01 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by orca1946
Why not flush with hose water?
I did this on my other car that has a conventional cooling system but I have very hard water which leads me to believe my new radiator got ruined because after that I found radiator full of scale/barnacles growing inside.
Old 08-13-2012, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc V.
From my experience as an auto tech, I would recommend using Prestone Dex Cool.

There have been a lot of problems with GM Dex Cool in the past, like corroding and clogging radiators and heater cores.

I never saw any issues with Prestone Dex Cool.
No issues with Amsoil anti-freeze either except that it costs $35.00 a gallon.


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