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I am getting a new GS, was wondering what numbers
to tell the alignment shop
for driving it on the street not on the track. I changed
the setting on my 2005 Z51 so I could get more
mileage out of the tires. Thanks Don C6
I am getting a new GS, was wondering what numbers
to tell the alignment shop
for driving it on the street not on the track. I changed
the setting on my 2005 Z51 so I could get more
mileage out of the tires. Thanks Don C6
Don, Your driving habits and road conditions have just as much to do with tire wear as alignment. If the changes you made to your 05 Z51 gave you satisfactory tire wear on the street, go with those settings.
Don't mess with the alignment until you have a minimum of 1,000 miles. The suspension takes a set after a few miles and the alignment will be just a waste of time and money.
Don, Your driving habits and road conditions have just as much to do with tire wear as alignment. If the changes you made to your 05 Z51 gave you satisfactory tire wear on the street, go with those settings.
Do what he said.
I am in the camp of dropping the camber down as close to 0. Toe needs to be really close to 0 too. -.001 would be great for toe! I'm really close to 0 on camber and my last tire check (while replacing my brake calipers and rotors) showed perfect tire wear, straight across and flat.
The higher the negative camber, the more you wear out the inside edge of the tire. You kill the tire early because the center and outside edge are still good.
Don't want to hijack, but what factor will reduce the wiggle over pavement seams? You know, not joints at the lane, just a seam where the blacktop machine ends right in the tire track on some roads.
Our GS had very poor alignment when delivered, and the tire wear (front especially) was terrible. Fronts about to be replaced after only 6K miles. Dealer is covering it!! They will do an alignment too, and I am looking to zero out the Camber and toe if possible. This car is not tracked and is a DD.
Don't want to hijack, but what factor will reduce the wiggle over pavement seams? You know, not joints at the lane, just a seam where the blacktop machine ends right in the tire track on some roads.
Stiffer bushings (or as mentioned tires that are less wide )
We've had good tire wear on two different "narrow body" C6's by using -.5 camber (negative camber) front and rear, 0 toe front and rear.
Negative camber will wear the insides of your tires a bit more than "0" but improves cornering. The big killer for front tires for me has been toe-out. Toe-out also improves steering response but makes the car feel "twitchy" for me.