Had to replace: Actuator, Fuel Filler Door Release
#1
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Had to replace: Actuator, Fuel Filler Door Release
Filled up with gas yesterday, and the solenoid pulled the release plunger IN, but would not come back out. Used the manual pull cable to actually push the plunger back out, but apparently the spring or whatever pushes it back out broke (so the fuel filler door would not stay closed). So I went to my local Chevy dealer, and they had the actuator and cable assembly IN STOCK (I love that about Chevrolet / GM)! Spent the afternoon taking my time putting it in...had to pull back the driver's side rear carpeting, and remove the wheel and then remove most of the screws for the driver's side rear wheelhouse panel to get at the cable and side of the fuel filler.
When buying the new assembly, the dealer remarked that this was the FIRST TIME they had EVER sold one! I only have 20K miles on the car (2006, Z51), so relatively speaking, I've not done that many fill-ups. I wonder how many others have had to replace this? (Fuel door will open, but the plunger won't came back out, thus cannot close/lock the door)?
When buying the new assembly, the dealer remarked that this was the FIRST TIME they had EVER sold one! I only have 20K miles on the car (2006, Z51), so relatively speaking, I've not done that many fill-ups. I wonder how many others have had to replace this? (Fuel door will open, but the plunger won't came back out, thus cannot close/lock the door)?
#2
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Filled up with gas yesterday, and the solenoid pulled the release plunger IN, but would not come back out. Used the manual pull cable to actually push the plunger back out, but apparently the spring or whatever pushes it back out broke (so the fuel filler door would not stay closed). So I went to my local Chevy dealer, and they had the actuator and cable assembly IN STOCK (I love that about Chevrolet / GM)! Spent the afternoon taking my time putting it in...had to pull back the driver's side rear carpeting, and remove the wheel and then remove most of the screws for the driver's side rear wheelhouse panel to get at the cable and side of the fuel filler.
When buying the new assembly, the dealer remarked that this was the FIRST TIME they had EVER sold one! I only have 20K miles on the car (2006, Z51), so relatively speaking, I've not done that many fill-ups. I wonder how many others have had to replace this? (Fuel door will open, but the plunger won't came back out, thus cannot close/lock the door)?
When buying the new assembly, the dealer remarked that this was the FIRST TIME they had EVER sold one! I only have 20K miles on the car (2006, Z51), so relatively speaking, I've not done that many fill-ups. I wonder how many others have had to replace this? (Fuel door will open, but the plunger won't came back out, thus cannot close/lock the door)?
Last edited by C8-Vette; 06-05-2011 at 07:13 AM.
#3
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Do tell on how to do this my spring is sprung....
#4
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Here's a link to an DIY fuel door fix.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/atta...cement-diy.pdf
Here's another link with more detailed pictures. I'm tackling this project tomorrow....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...se-sticks.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/atta...cement-diy.pdf
Here's another link with more detailed pictures. I'm tackling this project tomorrow....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...se-sticks.html
Last edited by Codez; 06-23-2011 at 01:50 AM. Reason: post link
#6
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What an easy DIY fix. Like others, I discovered a rusty and broken spring that I replaced with one from Ace hardware ($1.45). I had to snip the replacement spring down a bit, but again, easy stuff.
Fuel door stays shut each and every time now....took about 45 minutes in all, and that counts cleaning off the inside fenderwell and rim.
Fuel door stays shut each and every time now....took about 45 minutes in all, and that counts cleaning off the inside fenderwell and rim.
#7
Heel & Toe
The fuel tank fill door lock
I just got mine like that, my fuel door will not stay lock or close, So I went to the dealer and I will have to pay $269.00 for the whole thing. I need to find out how to do that so I can replace mine like you did... lol.
#8
Fuel Door Fix
2005 Z51 50k Miles
Fuel door would not stay closed yesterday. Determined the solenoid was ok and the 'return spring' at the door end of the control cable had probably failed. Others have had this failure. Rather than replacing the spring that would have required removing the rear tire, inner fender, etc. I elected to add a new spring at the actuator assembly. Purchased a 13/16 x 3-1/4 compression spring (P/N 88228) at Menards (89 cents) and cut it to 1/2" in length. Disconnected control cable from solenoid assembly and slipped the spring over the barrel of the assembly and reattached the cable that goes to the fuel door. Took all of 15 minutes after getting the spring. Works just fine.
Fuel door would not stay closed yesterday. Determined the solenoid was ok and the 'return spring' at the door end of the control cable had probably failed. Others have had this failure. Rather than replacing the spring that would have required removing the rear tire, inner fender, etc. I elected to add a new spring at the actuator assembly. Purchased a 13/16 x 3-1/4 compression spring (P/N 88228) at Menards (89 cents) and cut it to 1/2" in length. Disconnected control cable from solenoid assembly and slipped the spring over the barrel of the assembly and reattached the cable that goes to the fuel door. Took all of 15 minutes after getting the spring. Works just fine.
#9
Intermediate
Replace sp
2005 Z51 50k Miles
Fuel door would not stay closed yesterday. Determined the solenoid was ok and the 'return spring' at the door end of the control cable had probably failed. Others have had this failure. Rather than replacing the spring that would have required removing the rear tire, inner fender, etc. I elected to add a new spring at the actuator assembly. Purchased a 13/16 x 3-1/4 compression spring (P/N 88228) at Menards (89 cents) and cut it to 1/2" in length. Disconnected control cable from solenoid assembly and slipped the spring over the barrel of the assembly and reattached the cable that goes to the fuel door. Took all of 15 minutes after getting the spring. Works just fine.
Fuel door would not stay closed yesterday. Determined the solenoid was ok and the 'return spring' at the door end of the control cable had probably failed. Others have had this failure. Rather than replacing the spring that would have required removing the rear tire, inner fender, etc. I elected to add a new spring at the actuator assembly. Purchased a 13/16 x 3-1/4 compression spring (P/N 88228) at Menards (89 cents) and cut it to 1/2" in length. Disconnected control cable from solenoid assembly and slipped the spring over the barrel of the assembly and reattached the cable that goes to the fuel door. Took all of 15 minutes after getting the spring. Works just fine.
#10
Fuel Door Latch Spring
Thanks for this input. Hoping to save a trip to the mechanic. How did you disconnect the solenoid cable from the control assembly? I have a 2006 convertible and can access it by opening the storage area for the roof. I found the cable going through a rubber plug towards the release mechanism. I can't seem to find where the cable disconnects. Thanks!
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bizwiz (03-21-2021)
#11
Advanced
I have been trying to fix the Fuel Door on my 2011 GS convertible. Is the fuel door assembly different on mine than on the 2006. I'm not a mechanic and don't want to get involved in something that I can't fix. Thanks.
#12
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