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shifting to netural with a dead battery (automatic)

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Old 08-09-2011, 03:19 AM
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AKc62007
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Default shifting to netural with a dead battery (automatic)

I have 2007 with an auto if the battery dies how do u shift it in to neutral to push it out to jump it.?

Thanks
Old 08-09-2011, 03:34 AM
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TarHeelDon
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unfortunately you dont....you could give it a yank but your taking a risk...probably nothing will happen but ya just never know.
Old 08-09-2011, 03:37 AM
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AKc62007
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i was thinking that was the case.. but hoping there was something i was missing..
thanks...
Old 08-09-2011, 04:42 AM
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keyplyr
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Originally Posted by TarHeelDon
you could give it a yank but your taking a risk...probably nothing will happen but ya just never know.
I certainly would not advise "giving it a yank."

Yanking on the auto shifter snapped the cable causing damage to the shifter mechanism itself and got me a $1200 bill from the dealer and 10 days without my ride.




Old 08-09-2011, 09:33 AM
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davanz
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I can comment on this one with first hand experience. Bought my 06 A6 new in April of 06. About 4 months later went out to the garage to take the car out and couldn't open the doors. To shorten the story I got in using the key/open the back hatch method and started trying all the electrical systems. Nothing I tried worked execpt the horn. The only way I could think of to get the car out of park and push it out of the garage was to go under it to the transaxle area and disconnect the linkage, a tight fit for me as I am not what would be called a small framed peson. Fortunately the flatbed rig was able to back up to my garage door and pull the car onto the bed. I didn't like the idea of the rear tires sliding across a few feet of garage floor and driveway and up the steel bed, not so much for tire wear concerns as to just the strain on the parking pawl and asscoiated parts in the transmission. Maybe I worry too much about such things but my solution was to get a couple bottles of dish washing liquid from the pantry and "grease" the concrete and steel truck bed behind the tires as the car was being pulled aboard. The truck operator might of thought I was a bit strange but it was my car and driveway. It went tho the dealer and took a few extra hands to get it off of the truck and into a service bay.

It turned our to be a dead BCM, the computer located under the passenger side floor. It was replaced under warranty and no more problems with it yet.

I looked at the wiring diagrams in my service manual later and found that nearly every electrical component in the car is dependent upon that BCM in some way, time delays, iinterlock with other circuits, etc.
One exception i found was the horn. For some reason the engineeers left the horn function to be a stand alone circuit, operating through a horn relay just like in the old days. I like that I am not totally against the electronic wizardry of our cars but their are some cases of it going too far. Like door latches and shift lever operation. It would suit me fine if these things didn't need a computer to operate.

Just my experience and thoughts.
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:32 PM
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Gearhead Jim
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1. Use your key to open the trunk. Have earplugs in case alarm goes off.
2. Pull manual release tab for driver's door (located in trunk).
3. Open driver's door, pull hood release.
4. Open hood, connect battery charger or jumper cables.

If you can't get the hood open, you can connect a charger to the starter cable under the car. If you jack up the car for access, be sure to place jackstands or extra wheels so you won't be crushed if the jack goes down.
Old 08-09-2011, 12:42 PM
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tuxnharley
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
1. Use your key to open the trunk. Have earplugs in case alarm goes off.
2. Pull manual release tab for driver's door (located in trunk).
3. Open driver's door, pull hood release.
4. Open hood, connect battery charger or jumper cables.

If you can't get the hood open, you can connect a charger to the starter cable under the car. If you jack up the car for access, be sure to place jackstands or extra wheels so you won't be crushed if the jack goes down.
That's all good advice, but I think the OP's question was how to get it out of the garage to a place where there was enough room to be able to jump start it from another car?
Old 08-09-2011, 12:47 PM
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Daekwan06
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Do yourself a favour and order this:

http://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC300XL-Ultraportable-Starter-Light/dp/B000XQ9MGE/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2MAWOAW04 CFZ8&colid=LQXXI5MB679N

Jump-N-Carry JNC300XL 900 Peak Amp Ultraportable 12V Jump Starter with Light


$59 bucks. Free 2 day shipping with Amazon prime. $3.99 Overnight shipping with Amazon Prime. It will be at your house tomorrow! Its even small enough to keep in the car, and holds enough energy to jump a car several times without recharging. Many reviews about it say it holds a charge for up to 6 months and is still strong enough to crank the engine.
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Old 08-09-2011, 04:20 PM
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Gearhead Jim
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Originally Posted by tuxnharley
That's all good advice, but I think the OP's question was how to get it out of the garage to a place where there was enough room to be able to jump start it from another car?
You are correct, I don't know of any easy way to get into neutral with a totally dead battery. But the procedure i listed, should work for 99% of the time.

I'm assuming that he has room to at least connect a charger to the battery. If there is no electrical outlet there, then run an extension cord or use jumper cables (I keep a set of long ones). If he's in a hurry, connect the charger/jumper just long enough to put the car in Neutral.

Another trick is to jack up the rear of the car and set it on a dolly or creeper, so it can be moved while the rear wheels are locked.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:01 PM
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To the OP, if the battery is dead....use the trickle charger that plugs into the lighter socket. At full bore, it takes about 15 minutes to get enough juice to start it. On low trickle, overnight will fully charge a battery....Its the easiest solution if its not your DD.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by coryvte
To the OP, if the battery is dead....use the trickle charger that plugs into the lighter socket. At full bore, it takes about 15 minutes to get enough juice to start it. On low trickle, overnight will fully charge a battery....Its the easiest solution if its not your DD.
Now that is one hell of a charger. Later! Frank
Old 04-25-2021, 07:44 AM
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hotgrips
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NEW BATTERY IN 2015 ,C7 did not work. Shifter still stuck. ANY REAL Corvette experts out there?

Secret release? Dealer only?, best repair book info available?
Old 04-25-2021, 08:12 AM
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87SAM
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You should post in the C7 section, as this is the C6 forum. A little more info would also be helpful
Old 04-25-2021, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 87SAM
You should post in the C7 section, as this is the C6 forum. A little more info would also be helpful
The OP is looking for REAL Corvette experts. That's why it's posted here.
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Old 04-25-2021, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by FatsWaller
The OP is looking for REAL Corvette experts. That's why it's posted here.
Point taken!
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Old 04-25-2021, 02:03 PM
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sleepingcougar
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can you turn on the accessory mod? under accessory mod, by pressing the brake, you can shift to neutral.
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Old 04-25-2021, 04:38 PM
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hotgrips
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Originally Posted by 87SAM
You should post in the C7 section, as this is the C6 forum. A little more info would also be helpful
I also posted solutions in the C7 forum. PROBLEM RESOLVED. The key fob batteries were replaced, the 350 amp fuse was bad between the positive cable and the shiny distribution plate atop battery, so jumping the battery did no good. It was the 350 amp fuse just before power goes to the red pos. cable.. Thank you to all of you that had suggestions. Frustrating problem, but all good now. Autozone sells 175 amp fuse (used two) that is the same style as the 350 amp OEM fuse. I must have touched the negative battery jumper clamp to the cable, and blew that fuse years ago. Jumper battery and cables brought it back to life after fuses fixed, once the dash would light up, the odometer reads 470 miles. 4-25-21 427pm

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