Originally Posted by talon90

Seafoam will do absolutely nothing for a fuel sending unit issue. You are wasting your time and your money. Sulphur in gasoline can build up on and damage the carbon circuit on the unit. When this happens, sometimes it can be cleaned off with fuel system cleaner like Techron. If it doesn't solve the problem and it keeps coming back, you likely have a bad sending unit and the only alternative is to have it replaced. Unless you are very comfortable working on cars, have a lift and a full compliment of tools this is not a DIY project despite what Ravill said above. It is my contention that he's never removed a fuel tank on a C6 Corvette but trust me when I tell you it is not a simple job.

Originally Posted by NikC6

Thanks everyone for thier response and especially Talon for the detailed method for changing the fuel senders (think I will pass on trying that).
The dealer invoice say
62162 found faulty fuel sender DTC's P2066

For alternator:
62162 test charging system low output on ALT under load.
Stealer charged $300 just to figure this out...

@Pagan-Sorry to hear that..In my case the pumps are fine..

Originally Posted by RichieRichZ06

I am a manager at a (fairly) local dealer. We are about 65-70 miles away from you. We are a CF sponsor and we work on a ton of CF members cars. I have 6 here today alone, ranging from trans replacements, clutch jobs and even a fuel pump replacement on a C5.

I would be happy to take a look and offer advise or an estimate on performing the work. Our labor rate and parts prices are drastically reduced for forum members.

If nothing else, feel free to fax me you paperwork from the other dealer and I can give you an honest opinion of what I think you should do. You can PM or email me on this forum and we can chat about it tomorrow.

RICH

Originally Posted by mpuzach

Very generous offer, Rich. It makes me wish that I still lived in Sonoma County.

Originally Posted by djbrun

FYI,

Search for replacing the fuel pump and you will see good instructions for dropping the tank without touching the suspension/driveline. Not to bad to do.

DJ

Originally Posted by Licit

So why is there those couple of write-ups that are so long winded like talon90 posted on page 1?

Originally Posted by talon90

Here are the instructions (without the illustrations).

Jack the vehicle.

Remove the wheel on the side that you need to change. There is a sending unit in each tank, you need to know which one is at fault.

Remove the wheel well liner.

Remove both mufflers

Remove the driveline support:
Driveline Support Assembly Replacement Manual Transmission
Tools Required
J 36221 Hydraulic Clutch Separator
J 42055 Transmission Support Fixture
Removal Procedure





Caution
Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures. If a tool or equipment could easily come in contact with a live exposed electrical terminal, also disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to follow these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.



Notice
When tilting down the rear of the driveline, observe the clearance between the rear of the engine and the composite dash panel. Do not allow the engine to rest unsupported against the composite dash panel, or vehicle damage may result.



Notice
When lowering and removing the rear of the driveline, observe the clearance between the rear of the transaxle assembly and the underbody to prevent damage.






Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the console. Refer to Console Replacement in Instrument Panel, Gages, and Console.
Carefully pry off the shift control **** button.
Pry the shift control **** retainer out of the slots and remove the retainer.



Unscrew the shift control ****.



Grasp the sides of the shift control boot and apply light pressure in toward the shift control lever to begin to release the shift boot retaining tabs from the instrument panel (I/P) accessory trim plate.
Using light pressure, continue to release the remaining boot retaining tabs.



Lift the boot away from the trim plate and remove the boot.
Remove the I/P accessory trim plate. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Accessory in Instrument Panel, Gages, and Console.



Remove the shift control closeout boot retaining nuts.
Remove the shift control closeout boot.
Remove the shift control assembly. Refer to Shift Control Assembly Replacement in Manual Transmission - MM6.
Remove the left I/P lower insulator panel. Refer to Closeout/Insulator Panel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Lower in Instrument Panel, Gages, and Console.



Remove the clutch master cylinder pushrod retainer.
Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.



Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the clutch actuator cylinder hose from the hose retaining clip, at the rear of the engine.



Using the J 36221 , depress the white circular release ring on the actuator cylinder hose and simultaneously pull lightly on the master cylinder hose to disconnect.
Protect both hose coupling ends from dirt and damage.



Remove the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Remove the catalytic converters. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
Tie off the muffler assemblies to the underbody to support out of the way.
Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement .



Remove the rear transverse spring. Refer to Rear Transverse Spring Replacement in Rear Suspension.
Support the lower control arm with a straight jack.
Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the suspension knuckle. Refer to Tie Rod Replacement in Rear Suspension.
Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
Disconnect the lower ball joint from the suspension knuckle. Refer to Knuckle Replacement in Rear Suspension.
Remove the straight jack from the control arm.
Repeat steps 25 through 29 for the other side of the vehicle.



Assemble the J 42055 .
Install the J 42055 to a transmission jack.
Position and firmly secure the J 42055 with the transmission jack to the transmission.



Disconnect the wiring harness and brake pipe clip retainers from the rear suspension crossmember.
Remove the transaxle mount to rear crossmember nuts.



Position a transmission jack under the rear suspension crossmember and firmly secure the crossmember to the jack.
Using ONLY HAND TOOLS, remove the rear suspension crossmember retaining nuts.



With the aid of an assistant, slowly lower the rear suspension crossmember away from the vehicle frame rails and remove the crossmember.



Remove the transaxle mount bracket to differential bolts.
Remove the transaxle mount with bracket. Removing the transaxle mount will allow for greater stability on a workbench after the driveline is removed.



Using a pry bar, CAREFULLY release the wheel drive shafts from the differential.
Tie off the wheel drive shafts (1) to the underbody to support out of the way. The muffler assembly pipes toward the rear offer a good location to help support the wheel drive shafts (1).



Release the retainer (1) securing (and positioning) the wiring harness to the L-shaped brackets along the driveline support assembly, then slide the harness up out of the brackets and position out of the way.



SLOWLY lower the driveline approximately 51 mm (2 in), while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt, in order to access the electrical connectors.
Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) electrical connector.



Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the stud at the differential rear cover.
Disconnect the wiring harness retainer clip from the top of the differential.



Disconnect the backup lamp switch electrical connector.



Disconnect the reverse lockout solenoid electrical connector.



Disconnect the gear select (skip shift) solenoid electrical connector.



Disconnect the transmission fluid temperature sensor electrical connector, if equipped.



Insert a putty knife, or similar tool, between the edge of the shifter bracket on the side of the driveline support assembly and the brake pipe retainer on the wall of the driveline tunnel.



SLOWLY lower the driveline, while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt, and observe the relationship between the top rear of the differential and the lowest part of the rear compartment panel floor (the center storage compartment between the frame rails). The differential should not be lowered more than approximately EVEN with the specified body point of reference. The engine positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) pipes which route along the rear of the engine intake manifold (LS1 only) will likely contact the dash panel.
Release the wiring harness from the harness retainer along the top of the transmission.
Ensure the wiring harness is free from the driveline being removed.



Using a block of wood to protect the engine oil pan, place a straight jack under the rear of the engine oil pan to support the engine from stressing the composite dash panel.
Remove the 5 driveline support assembly to engine flywheel housing bolts.
Carefully bend the wiring harness bracket away from the driveline toward the driveline tunnel wall in order to make a clear removal path for the driveline.




Important
The aid of an assistant will be necessary for the remaining steps.


Have an assistant insert a flat-bladed screwdriver, or similar tool, between the edge of the driveline support assembly and the engine flywheel housing, then begin to pry the driveline loose from the engine.



Have an assistant guide the front of the driveline during the removal of the driveline from the vehicle.
SLOWLY lower the driveline, while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt and pulling the driveline away from the engine UNTIL the propeller input shaft at the front of the driveline support assembly just clears the engine flywheel housing.
SLOWLY lower the driveline completely out of the vehicle.



Position the chainfall, or equivalent lifting device, in a way which will protect the rear exhaust hangers located on the driveline support assembly.
Using the lifting device, raise the driveline to relieve the weight from the transmission jack.
Disconnect the J 42055 from the transmission jack ONLY; the J 42055 will provide stability to the driveline components while working on a bench.
Position the driveline on a workbench with the lifting device still attached.
Support the driveline support assembly and the differential for additional balance.
Remove the lifting device from the driveline.



Remove the clutch actuator cylinder mounting bolts.
Remove the clutch actuator cylinder from the driveline support assembly.



Remove the rear exhaust hanger mounting bolts.
Remove the rear exhaust hangers from the driveline support assembly.



Remove the transmission to driveline support assembly bolts/studs.
Insert a flat-bladed screwdriver, or similar tool, between the edge of the driveline support assembly and the transmission, then begin to pry the driveline support assembly loose from the transmission.



Slowly slide the driveline support assembly away from the transmission while guiding the transmission shift rod through the opening in the driveline support assembly.
Installation Procedure

Notice
When tilting down the rear of the driveline, insert a putty knife or similar tool between the shift control bracket on the driveline support assembly and the brake pipe retainer on the driveline tunnel wall to prevent damage.



Notice
Ensure that the clutch hydraulic hoses are positioned away from nearby vehicle components or vehicle damage may result.






Slowly slide the driveline support assembly to the transmission, while guiding the shift rod through the opening in the driveline support assembly.




Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Install the transmission to driveline support assembly bolts/studs. Tighten
Tighten the transmission to driveline support assembly bolts/studs to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).





Install the rear exhaust hangers to the driveline support assembly.
Install the rear exhaust hanger mounting bolts. Tighten
Tighten the rear exhaust hanger mounting bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).





Install the clutch actuator cylinder to the driveline support assembly.
Install the clutch actuator cylinder mounting bolts. Tighten
Tighten the clutch actuator cylinder mounting bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).





Loosely install a rubber band onto the transmission shift rod and position just behind the shift rod clamp. The rubber band will be used to aid in installing the shift control rod after the driveline has been installed.
Using a piece of masking tape, or similar tape which can be easily broken, affix the transmission shift rod to the driveline support assembly and position the rod just to the outside of the mounting boss used for the shift control. The tape is intended to keep the shift control rod in position, and to aid in shift control rod installation.



Position the chainfall, or equivalent lifting device, in a way which will protect the rear exhaust hangers located on the driveline support assembly.

Important
The aid of an assistant will be necessary for the following steps until the driveline is installed into the vehicle.


Using the lifting device, raise the driveline off the workbench and position the driveline with the J 42055 onto a transmission jack.
Connect the J 42055 to the transmission jack.



Remove the lifting device from the driveline.
Position the driveline under the vehicle.
Begin to raise the driveline at the approximate angle used during removal.
Position the wiring harness along the driveline support assembly and LOOSELY install the harness into the harness retaining slots.
Have an assistant guide the front of the driveline so the propeller input shaft is just to the rear of the engine flywheel housing, then raise the driveline to the PROPER HEIGHT and the PROPER ANGLE to install to the engine.
Have an assistant begin to insert the propeller input shaft into the clutch driven plate hub while maintaining the proper angle of the driveline; if necessary, use a screwdriver to rotate the shaft slightly to bring the splines into alignment.



Insert a putty knife, or similar tool, between the edge of the shifter bracket on the side of the driveline support assembly and the brake pipe retainer on the wall of the driveline tunnel.



SLOWLY seat the driveline to the engine flywheel housing while maintaining the proper angle of the driveline.
Reposition the wiring harness bracket from near the driveline tunnel wall to align with the appropriate driveline support assembly bolt hole.



Install the 5 driveline support assembly to engine flywheel housing bolts. Tighten
Tighten the driveline support assembly to engine flywheel housing bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

Install the wiring harness to the wiring harness retainer along the top of the transmission.
SLOWLY raise the driveline to approximately 51 mm (2 in) BELOW the final installed height.



Connect the transmission fluid temperature sensor electrical connector, if equipped.



Connect the gear select (skip shift) solenoid electrical connector.



Connect the reverse lockout solenoid electrical connector.



Connect the backup lamp switch electrical connector.



Connect the wiring harness clip to the top of the differential.
Connect the wiring harness retainer to the stud at the differential rear cover.



Connect the VSS electrical connector.



Slowly raise the driveline to final installation height.
Remove the putty knife, if still in position.
Remove the jack which supported the rear of the engine.
Remove the tie-off retainers from the axle shafts.
CAREFULLY align and seat the wheel drive shafts to the differential.
Install the transaxle mount with bracket to the differential.
Install the transaxle mount bracket to differential bolts. Tighten
Tighten the transaxle mount bracket to differential bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).





With the aid of an assistant, begin to raise the rear suspension crossmember (still firmly attached to a transmission jack), until it contacts the vehicle frame rails.
Guide the rear suspension crossmember alignment pins into the alignment holes in the vehicle frame rails, and guide the transaxle mount studs into the mounting holes in the crossmember, then raise the crossmember until it contacts the vehicle frame rails.



Using ONLY HAND TOOLS, install NEW rear suspension crossmember mounting nuts. Tighten
Tighten the rear suspension crossmember mounting nuts to 110 N·m (81 lb ft).





Remove the transmission jack from the rear suspension crossmember.
Release the J 42055 from the transmission, then remove the J 42055 and transmission jack.
Install the transaxle mount to rear suspension crossmember nuts. Tighten
Tighten the transaxle mount to rear suspension crossmember nuts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

Connect the wiring harness and brake pipe clip retainers to the rear suspension crossmember.



Support the lower control arm with a straight jack.
Connect the lower ball joint to the suspension knuckle. Refer to Knuckle Replacement in Rear Suspension.
Install the shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Tighten
Tighten the rear shock absorber lower mounting bolt to 220 N·m (162 lb ft).

Connect the outer tie rod end to the suspension knuckle. Refer to Tie Rod Replacement in Rear Suspension.
Remove the straight jack from the suspension control arm.
Repeat steps 45 through 49 for the other side of the vehicle.
Install the rear transverse spring. Refer to Rear Transverse Spring Replacement in Rear Suspension.



Carefully pull the wiring harness down into the L-shaped brackets along the driveline support assembly, align the harness retainer (locator) (1) to the hole in the forward bracket, then secure in place.




Important
DO NOT rely on an audible click or a visual verification of the clutch hydraulic hose quick connect fitting connection.


Connect the clutch actuator cylinder hose to the clutch master cylinder hose. Push together the clutch hydraulic hose quick connect fittings, then pull back on the fittings to verify engagement.
Inspect the clutch hydraulic hoses for twists or kinks.



Install the clutch actuator cylinder hose to the hose retaining clip, at the rear of the engine.
Install the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement .
Remove the tie-off retainers from the muffler assemblies.
Install the catalytic converters. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
Install the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.



Lower the vehicle.
Connect the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal.
Install the clutch master cylinder pushrod retainer.
Install the left I/P lower insulator panel. Refer to Closeout/Insulator Panel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Lower in Instrument Panel, Gages, and Console.



Grasp the transmission shift rod and pull up to break the masking tape installed earlier to maintain position during installation.
Stretch the rubber band, while still installed onto the transmission shift rod, over the rear stud on top of the driveline tunnel to aid in shift control installation.
Install the shift control assembly. Refer to Shift Control Assembly Replacement in Manual Transmission.
Break and remove the rubber band.



Install the shift control closeout boot. Ensure the closeout boot fully seats to the shift control lever seal and the base of the shift control assembly (1).
Install the shift control closeout boot retaining nuts. Tighten
Tighten the shift control closeout boot retaining nuts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).





Install the I/P accessory trim plate. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Accessory in Instrument Panel, Gages, and Console.
Install the shift control boot over the shift control lever.



Align the shift control boot to the I/P accessory trim plate opening, then press to lock the boot retaining tabs.
Adjust the shape of the boot for appearance, if necessary.



Screw the shift control **** onto the shift control lever until the **** bottoms out.



Unscrew the shift control **** just enough to align the retainer slot with the slot on the shift control lever.
Install the shift control **** retainer (1) into the slots and seat fully.
Install the shift control **** button.
Install the console. Refer to Console Replacement in Instrument Panel, Gages, and Console.
Connect the negative battery cable. Tighten
Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).

Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming in Keyless Entry.
Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Refer to Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding in Clutch.


Fuel tank removal
Fuel Tank Replacement - Left
Tools Required
J 37088-A Fuel Line Disconnect Tool

Removal Procedure
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Drain the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Draining Procedure .
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the left rear tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Remove the left rear wheelhouse panel. Refer to CELL LINK 9617 in Body Rear End.
Remove both mufflers. Refer to Muffler Replacement - Left and Muffler Replacement - Right in Engine Exhaust.
Remove the driveline support assembly. Refer to Driveline Support Assembly Replacement in Propeller Shaft.
Disconnect the fuel fill hose and recirc line from the fill pipe.



Disconnect the fuel pump jumper harness connector.



Disconnect the fuel feed pipe (4) at the rear of the left fuel tank. Refer to Quick Connect Fitting(s) Service (Plastic Collar) .
Cap the fuel pipes to prevent fuel system contamination.



Loosen the fuel tank strap in order to drop the tank approximately one inch.



Disengage the crossover tube connector position assurance (CPA) retainer by pulling the tab (1) outward and rotate.




Important
The crossover tube CPA is released when the latch disengages from the tank connection groove.


Rotate crossover tube collar (3) counterclockwise to disengage.



Disconnect the crossover tube from the left fuel tank by pulling straight out.




Important
Take care not to disturb the internal O-rings in the fuel tank connections.


Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) crossover pipe (2) quick connect fitting at the left fuel tank.



Cap the EVAP pipe to prevent system contamination.



Remove the fuel tank strap mount bolts.
Remove the fuel tank strap from the vehicle.



Remove the fuel tank.
Installation Procedure




Install the fuel tank.
Install the fuel tank strap to the vehicle.



Install the fuel tank strap bolts loosely leaving the tank hanging approximately one inch.
Remove the cap from the EVAP pipe.



Connect the EVAP crossover pipe (2) quick connect fitting at the left fuel tank.



Lubricate the crossover tube to fuel tank connection O-rings (1-4) with GM P/N 1051717 (Canadian P/N 5728223) rubber lubricant.

Important
Note the location of the T-shaped alignment feature (5) between the jet pump feed/return pipes connector.






Lubricate the crossover tube O-ring mating surfaces (1-4) with GM P/N 1051717 (Canadian P/N 5728223) rubber lubricant.

Important
Note the T-shaped alignment feature on the crossover tube.



Important
The crossover tube will not fully seat into the fuel tank if the jet pump lines are misaligned.


Connect the crossover tube to the left fuel tank using the features previously noted.

Important
The crossover tube collar tangs will not latch if misalignment exists.


Rotate the crossover tube collar (3) clockwise to engage the tangs.



Rotate the crossover tube CPA retainer counterclockwise past the collar latching tang and push the tab (1) into the locked position.

Important
If the CPA retainer is locked into position, the crossover tube collar will not rotate.


Test the crossover tube to fuel tank connection by attempting to rotate the crossover tube collar counterclockwise.
Notice
Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.





Tighten the fuel tank strap bolts. Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb in).

Remove the cap from the fuel pipes.



Connect the fuel feed pipe (4) at the rear of the left fuel tank. Refer to Quick Connect Fitting(s) Service (Plastic Collar) .



Connect the fuel pump jumper harness connector.
Connect the fuel fill hose and recirc line to the fill tube. Tighten
Tighten the clamp to 4 N·m (35 lb in).

Install the driveline support assembly. Refer to Driveline Support Assembly Replacement in Propeller Shaft.
Install both mufflers. Refer to Muffler Replacement - Left and Muffler Replacement - Right in Engine Exhaust.
Install the left rear wheelhouse panel. Refer to CELL LINK 9617 in Body Rear End.
Install the Left rear tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
Refuel the fuel tank.
Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Perform the following procedure in order to test for leaks:
Turn ON the ignition switch for 2 seconds.
Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
Turn ON the ignition.
Inspect for fuel leaks.
Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming in Keyless Entry.

Originally Posted by Licit

So why is there those couple of write-ups that are so long winded like talon90 posted on page 1?

Originally Posted by RichieRichZ06

I am a manager at a (fairly) local dealer. We are about 65-70 miles away from you. We are a CF sponsor and we work on a ton of CF members cars. I have 6 here today alone, ranging from trans replacements, clutch jobs and even a fuel pump replacement on a C5.

I would be happy to take a look and offer advise or an estimate on performing the work. Our labor rate and parts prices are drastically reduced for forum members.

If nothing else, feel free to fax me you paperwork from the other dealer and I can give you an honest opinion of what I think you should do. You can PM or email me on this forum and we can chat about it tomorrow.

RICH