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No start problem

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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:33 PM
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Default No start problem

Started intermittent, now can't get her started. I'll get in car as the FOB works fine to open doors, trunk and lock, even set or shut off alarm. I step on the brake and push the start button, then everything shuts off completely and shows a check engine light. Changed batterty in FOB, check car battery 12.3 VDC (on charger now). Still stays the same. Is tghere supposed to be some kind of contacks in the Glove box to duplicate a new FOB to the system? I tried the proceedures to train a new FOB, Doors & glove box open car off, key 5 times in trunk. No go.

08 C6 Coupe ZHZ LS3 Auto.

Any suggestions? Helpfull suggestions please.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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If it is a fob problem, the car will say 'no fob detected'

This sounds like a car battery problem.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by EDinPA
If it is a fob problem, the car will say 'no fob detected'

This sounds like a car battery problem.
It takes a lot less juice to lock/unlock doors, flash error messages, etc. than it does to start the car. Reprogramming the fob does nothing. All the slot in the glovebox is for is to allow a fob with a weak or no battery to still start the car. But the car battery has to be charged up enough to do that.

Replace the car battery, reset the clock and reset the window indexing, then you will probably be okay.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by EDinPA
If it is a fob problem, the car will say 'no fob detected'

This sounds like a car battery problem.
It finds the FOB fine. Put the battery on charge for the night as well. Try again tonight.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 08:30 PM
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When the battery is on it's way out, it will not always take a charge. You should have it load tested.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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Sounds like battery to me also...if it doesn't say "no fob detected" then it's not the fob system.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 09:00 PM
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I changed out the battery for a new one. No change. The check engine light comes on after the car resets itself. If I try to start it and step on the brake, it seems like the start circuit opens and it disconnects the battery to the whole vehicle. Would this be some sort of mechanical theft system acting up?
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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With the light on I checked the DTCs with my SCT. Shows no codes thrown.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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Try a good old fashioned jump start and see if that helps.If it does,you found your problem.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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Check battery connections, both ends, both cables clean and tight.

Check brake, clutch switches

Check crank relay in the fuse box. I don't remember, but there may be another in there that you can swap out with it to test it. Do a search for crank relay.



Any mods? Headers can cook the starter solenoid and the connector plug.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 09:42 PM
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No mods to power train at all. Swapped crank and ignition realys with rear defrost. DIC reads 12.2-12.3 VDC. Brake switch must be wrking otherwise the car wouldn't let me attemt to start. DIC warns me to place foot on brake to start.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 10:08 PM
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Please excuse the bad spelling and punctuation... :P
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 11:59 PM
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I know that we tend to think electronics first...but it is possible that the solenoid or starter is bad
With an older car, I would take a tire wrench and tap fairly hard on the starter motor...might try that, it can't hurt. It worked on my Trans Am in about 1979.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 07:37 AM
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Check for corrosion at the starter solenoid connectors.
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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Thanks Gents! Crawled under the car and found a broken post on the starter. Now we get to find out if the 5/100 warranty covers it
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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It won't cover the starter. Its for the drivetrain components only and internal at that. The starter isn't part of that even though the car won't start without it.
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 02:09 PM
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I'll bet that a new or rebuilt starter is less expensive than some fancy computer module, so this is probably a good end to the story.
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