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From: Somewhere you've probably never heard of in New Mexico
St. Jude Donor '11-'13-'14-'15
Brake Rotor Help
Finally bought a floor jack and removed a rear wheel due to a flat tire. I was inspecting the rotors and there is a slight lip around the outside of the rotor, both inner and outer sides of rotor. I don't have anything that measures that small so I'm guessing it is between 1/32 and 1/16 of an inch. The car has 55K miles on it so I'm thinking about replacing the rotors and pads on all four corners.
I've been looking around on the internets and have found different rotors based on model, base, Z51, Z06, etc. I have the F55 suspension which includes "larger cross drilled rotors" according to the ordering guide posted in the FAQs. Are these the same as the Z51 rotors? What about the pads? I don't track the car so performance isn't an issue, as long as they perform their stopping function.
your rotors are the same as z51. we have many vendors that sell rotors and brake pads. many vette owners switch to carbon pads for the benefit of less dust and less squeal; however, carbon pads aren't recommended for the track. for pads, if you are not going to keep stick with gm's pads, you should check out the the offerings from hawk and carbotech.
I just replaced my Z51 rotors for similar reasons. I chose Baer Eradispeed Plus Two rotors from MidAmerica Motor Works. I chose Carbotech 1521 ceramic pads. This is an expensive combination (~$1,700), but the result is beautiful. The Baers have an aluminum center rather than solid iron, and weigh about 5lb less per corner. The iron is also zinc coated so I'm hoping they don't rust for a long time.
I got "ceramic" for my Z51 from Gene Cully (a vendor here) in-fact I bought 2 sets of pads the price was so good... if you don't track your car the GM Ceramic pad are perfect... I get NO dust or squeal... and it stops fine... the price is under $120 for all 4 wheels..
There are several different brands, but I like the GM brand they do a good job for me..
I "DO" race my car but only "Drag Race" it so after I cross the finish line, I have over 1/2 mile to slow down and the breaks NEVER get HOT... like they would on a road course or AutoX.
I'm a happy camper with Gene Culley I'm not sure of he vendor name maybe GMparts, or something like that ....
The lip doesn't really make any difference as long as the worn part of the rotor is still above the minimum thickness requirements. Check the edge of the rotor for the requirement. It should be stamped into the edge of the rotor.
You could get Baer Eradispeed+two (2 piece) rotors which are designed to replace stock rotors. They have aluminum hats which reduce unsprung weight and look great!
The lip is nothing to be worried about, but if it is really bothering you have them turned. Most brake shops will turn your rotors while you wait for less than $10 each.
From: Somewhere you've probably never heard of in New Mexico
St. Jude Donor '11-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by Thrill6
The lip is nothing to be worried about, but if it is really bothering you have them turned. Most brake shops will turn your rotors while you wait for less than $10 each.
I went to auto zone looking for a micrometer and the guy there told me that if there is a lip on the rotor they can't turn them and that something is wrong with my brakes. All four disks have about the same lip. I think the guy's on crack. Is the lip normal or did someone put the wrong size pads on the car. I have done nothing with the brakes since I bought the car two years ago.
Am I better off just changing both pads and rotor or can I change just the pads if the rotor is within tolerance?
There you go, nice rotors. I use the GM Ceramics, no dust and no squeal.
Originally Posted by keyplyr
You could get Baer Eradispeed+two (2 piece) rotors which are designed to replace stock rotors. They have aluminum hats which reduce unsprung weight and look great!
The lip doesn't really make any difference as long as the worn part of the rotor is still above the minimum thickness requirements. Check the edge of the rotor for the requirement. It should be stamped into the edge of the rotor.
Bill
Exactly. There is no problem with the rotors as long as they are within the printed thickness spec. If the pads are worn down, just put new ones in. Many brake manufacturers are now recommending against turning rotors as it thins them and makes them more susceptible to warping. The auto parts guy IS on crack.
From: Somewhere you've probably never heard of in New Mexico
St. Jude Donor '11-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by cclive
Exactly. There is no problem with the rotors as long as they are within the printed thickness spec. If the pads are worn down, just put new ones in. Many brake manufacturers are now recommending against turning rotors as it thins them and makes them more susceptible to warping. The auto parts guy IS on crack.
I have never looked for it on mine but normally it is cast into the rotor somewhere and will say something like "MIN .885 thick". It may even be in millimeters now...either way it will be obvious which one it is. Check the flange where the wheel presses against it first.