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Alignment spec question

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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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Default Alignment spec question

My steering wheel was slightly off center going down the road on my brand new 11 GS Vert so I took it in for an alignment.

Here are the specs (Caster/Camber/Toe). Out of limits ones are in red.

LF -1.2/8.1/.20
RF -1.1/8.1/.34
Total Toe .54, steer ahead -.07
LR -/-1/.04
RR -/-.7/-.11
Total Toe -.07
Thrust angle .07

LF -.6/7.4/-.01
RF -.4/7 .7/-.03
Total Toe -.04
Steer ahead .01

New rear settings were the same as above except both RR and LR toe are both .03, total toe .06, thrust angle 0.

Now the car takes a lot of concentration to go straight. It'll pull to the right mostly. Steering wheel has to be about 10 degrees to the left for the car to stay straight. Of course I have to maintain pressure on the wheel to keep it there. All specs currently are within GM specs but that isn't saying much. Any suggestions on what may be off. It is used on the street.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:14 PM
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I'll give this a boost, philies. I'd like to know, too.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:39 PM
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I can't understand why the car won't track straight anymore ... somethings wrong

But ... It looks like the car originally had a camber of about -1.2 degrees. That much camber will make for great cornering at the track, but will eat the inner edge of the tires real good.


If you want good tire wear, but still a good handling car, get them to set the camber at -0.4 degrees for all the wheels and the toe at 0.0" for all the wheels. (any toe-in or toe-out will also eat the tires)

Don't worry so much about the caster ... it should be set ok from the factory.

Oh ya .. Find a new alignment shop!

.

Last edited by Turbo6TA; Oct 13, 2011 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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The minus numbers for front toe mean toe-out, and that tends to make the car "nervous". Great for over-caffinated autocrossers, not so good for the rest of us.

But the off-center steering wheel, and pulling; mean something is really messed up. Unless you have a tire problem, I'd go with the recommendation for a different alignment shop.

In the past, I've been happy with 0 toe front and rear, camber -.5 front and -.3 rear. Not very hard on the tires.

Let us know...

Last edited by Gearhead Jim; Oct 13, 2011 at 10:39 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by phileaglesfan
My steering wheel was slightly off center going down the road on my brand new 11 GS Vert so I took it in for an alignment.

Here are the specs (Caster/Camber/Toe). Out of limits ones are in red.

LF -1.2/8.1/.20
RF -1.1/8.1/.34
Total Toe .54, steer ahead -.07
LR -/-1/.04
RR -/-.7/-.11
Total Toe -.07
Thrust angle .07

LF -.6/7.4/-.01
RF -.4/7 .7/-.03
Total Toe -.04
Steer ahead .01

New rear settings were the same as above except both RR and LR toe are both .03, total toe .06, thrust angle 0.

Now the car takes a lot of concentration to go straight. It'll pull to the right mostly. Steering wheel has to be about 10 degrees to the left for the car to stay straight. Of course I have to maintain pressure on the wheel to keep it there. All specs currently are within GM specs but that isn't saying much. Any suggestions on what may be off. It is used on the street.
Good timing on this thread, I just had my 2010 GS in for an alignment yesterday. Out of the 10 factory settings measured, 7 were outside the allowable range, nice quality control GM ... The fronts made it to 19.5 until the inner cord wore through and the backs are probably good till 25K..
Now it tracks straight as an arrow, steering wheel is perfectly centered, and drives so much nicer. I couldn't believe the difference it made. Specs are now..

Caster LF 7.75
RF 8.14

Camber LF -0.47
RF -0.69
LR -0.50
RR -0.50

Toe RF .02
LF .01
RR .03
LR .03
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 12:39 AM
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That is amazing the fronts last to 19.5k. Gen1 or Gen2 Goodyears?

Well it is still covered under warranty (only has 4k on it) so I'll take it back to the dealer. I figure the negative toe made it more "nervous". Factory setting was real stable but with high toe in .20/.34. Hopefully they'll be able to crank out some toe to zero or a little toe in (.01 or .02). The car does act like it is "hyper" right now.

If the dealer can't get it then we have JDP Motorsports here in SLC that is great with the Corvette's suspension.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 07:45 AM
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When you road test the car make sure the road is level. A bad enough crown or deep ruts from heavy trucks will make the car pull.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by marc8090
When you road test the car make sure the road is level. A bad enough crown or deep ruts from heavy trucks will make the car pull.
very true. I've actually stumbled across some roads with heavy ruts from trucks (so, what heck was I doing walking across the road, you might ask? )
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 09:57 AM
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^ with your choice of words ( stumbled ) I dare to imagine.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 02:02 PM
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Just got backed from the dealer. They said they "tweeked" it to the left. I went for a drive and the car tracked perfectly. It took a lot of crown in the road to make it want to go right. I asked for an spec sheet but they didn't save it. It feels like it is not "hyper" or nervous any more. They also adjusted the steering wheel a little. The car's steering wheel always seemed to be a little off even from the factory when it was tracking straight.

I know Talon90 (Paul) mentioned the factory is doing an alignment at the end of the line now instead of best guessing it. Time to enjoy the rest of the fall before the white stuff begins to fall.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 04:08 PM
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Just had both my tires replaced and a major alignment effort put forth on my 350 mile 11 GS. Everything was significantly out of spec. A whole new set of tires, thank you GM and Goodyear.
I don't have the before numbers only the final that works great. By the way Turbo6TA the caster was more out of spec than the other front end stuff per the Tech.
Camber/Caster/toe
LF -.5*/7.8/.04 RF -.6/7.5/0.00
Total toe .04
Steer Ahead .03
Cam/Toe
LR -.04/.05 RR -.5/,02
TToe .07
Thrust .03

The other thing we are now playing with is tire pressure..Cold the fronts after a week were 28 heated to 32. The rears were LR 27/RR 28 heated to 30/31. Car was nervous.

Put in 31 around cold. Fronts heated to 34 and rears to 32/33. We are now going to try biasing the rears to +2#s over the fronts. Looking to get 31 front cold and 33 Rear cold which should get us to 34 heated all around. Just going to 31 took a bunch of nervous behavior out.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by phileaglesfan
That is amazing the fronts last to 19.5k. Gen1 or Gen2 Goodyears?
Bought it in May of 2010, not sure which Gen it came with. Dealers should dial these things in before they sell the car as part of the prep!
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RedHottGS
Bought it in May of 2010, not sure which Gen it came with. Dealers should dial these things in before they sell the car as part of the prep!
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Boomer111
^ with your choice of words ( stumbled ) I dare to imagine.
thanks a bunch!!! but you are right: I was laffing then, and NOW!
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 11:02 PM
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Dave, those tires are too expensive to burn up needlessly...glad you got it aligned.

(If you are going to burn them up, at least do it at speed on some nice winding canyon road!)
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