I was wondering if anyone has experienced this.
They started the noise at 4200 miles. I then broke in the breaks as directed by the owners manual. This did not make the problem go away.
They only squeak when i lightly push the break pedal and the sound stops upon more break pressure.
I did one search and got a hit it was not very helpful.
Thank you,
andy

 

Try two or three hard decels 60-10 mph, but not into the ABS. Drive normally for 5 minutes to allow brakes to cool. Get on with life and enjoy the (hopefully) new found quiet for a few weeks, repeat when necessary.

Not exactly high tech, but it works for me.

 

I have this on my 11 GS. Sounds like the rear drivers side that squeals. It's only under normal braking when you're slowing down. I hear it and press a little harder and it goes away.

I went out and tried the fixes posted (and found out how GOOOOOD the brakes are.. WOW!)

Still squeaks. Embarrassing pulling up to a stop light... eeeeekkkk.. When I bring it in for an oil change I'll mention it so they'll hopefully fix it right before the f*** up my rockers.

 

Lots of people have had problems with break squeak. Myself included. Some days it squeaks some days it doesnt. I have tried everything listed on this site short of replacing the rotors. I have given up, at the end of the day squeaky or not its still a vette and im still smiling.



Did I mention... Go TEXAS RANGERS!!!

 

My wifes Vettes brakes do it (new drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads), my ZR1 does it (Carbon Ceramic).
I do what Jim posted and it helps, but yes it is embarrassing. :bb

 

16k on my 2010 and never had the problem. But thanks to Gearhead Jim for a possible fix if I do.

 

I have the same issue, driver's side rear. I did everything greased it, cleaned it, sanded it, new pads, sanded the pads, edged the pads. Bought new rotors and brake pads. Still did it. Bought slotted rotors and pads with a special backing to stop squeel on the pads. It worked for one month and it was back. I don't think it can be fixed once it starts.........Drives me nuts.

 

May need to bed the pads in again>


http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85



Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures

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All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:

When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.

It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.

The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.

If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

AKEBONO

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

ATE

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

HAWK

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

POWER SLOT

Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.

SATISFIED

For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —

Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.

Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.

For all other Satisfied pads —

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

 

I did all the break in procedures as listed. Still have the squeel. Only right rear does it. I do the bedding again and it stops for awhile then its back.

 

FWIW, our 2009 Service Manual says the rotors should be resurfaced only if they have heavy rust/pitting, or cracks/heat spots, or excessive blueing discoloration. When doing HPDE and autocross in our 2001 and 2006, I never had the rotors resurfaced. Just changed pads (several times) until I finally replaced the rotors.

Service Manual burnishing procedure is approx 20 moderate-firm stops from 48 mph, allow cooling between stops.

Works for me.

 

Our GS does this as well @4,000 miles and I do the hard brake procedure as well. I actually saw the fix while watching the DVD that came with the car.

 

I'll try this out to. Mine started doing this and replacing the pads did nothing to fix the problem.

 

Thanks all for the replies.
Sounds like i will live with it.

 

thanks,
Awesome avatar as expected

 

Ha ha we will see saturday .
Great team you have.
good luck(not)!

 

I payed around 600 for my squeal. Price of pads rotors and brackets. Mine do it when I first back out then settle down, especially it they are wet. I didn't have the problem with the stock base brakes, but when I put the z-51 drilled rotors and ceramic pads I got the squeal. They were professionaly installed and broke in by me.

Go red!!!

 

I just replaced all of my rotors and new ceramic pads. Only the left front will squeal. I took the one apart again, cleaned carefully yet the squeal continues. Guess I'm going to have to go to a brake specialist because I want this noise gone. The OEM's were fine with no squeal. I did the same brake install on my '99 as well, no squeal.