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NPP question? Help.

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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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Default NPP question? Help.

I have a 2011 GS with standard exhausts. I am looking at buying a NPP exhausts system from another forum member. They are the axle back mufflers and pipes. What would I need to have in addition for these NPP's to work on a none NPP car?

Thanks for the help.
r.lee
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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"NPP in a box" Do a search, vendors here sell it.

This thread shows it...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-in-a-box.html
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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NPP in a box. I installed the mufflers and NPP in a box on a 06 vert a couple of years ago and it was very simple. Make sure you get the right year mufflers for your car. I understand they were changed in 09.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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If the Exhaust came off a Z06 then I believe you will also need an adapter from 2.5 to 3".
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 01:24 AM
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Make sure you buy the correct NPP axleback. '09 and later will be a direct bolt in, '08 will have to be modified and the Z06 BIMode requires cutting and welding.

Then contact Sunset Orange Creations, he can get a controller for you, just explain what you want.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 11:16 AM
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What they all said.

Save yourself any problems by getting the right system though. There are plenty of systems available. 2009+ for C6 base and GS are all 2.5 inch and are a direct bolt on. Z06 are 3 inch and require a reducer.

And although everyone dealer and muffler shop will look in their book and tell you it will be 5+ hours because they have to drop the rear cross member, you'll wind up doing it yourself.

Truth is that it's an hour or two while taking your time.

Be careful and jack car up so the rear diffuser is about 33 inches up.
I put the front wheels on a some 2x8 boards BTW.

Get a buddy to help so you don't have to keep looking for the tools.

Unbolt the crossover pipe. (4 nuts from header, 2 bolts from spring center holder and 2 band clamps from cat back. Takes about 5 minutes.
Make a mental note as how the spring holders are positioned before unbolting. Careful the pipe doesn't fall on you. Ask me how I know.

Support it while you unbolt the rear muffler bracket supports. Some say you don't need to remove those but it's so much easier than trying to slide the support pin from the muffler out of the rubber hanger.

Everything will now be hanging. The toughest part is separating the cat back from the crossover pipe. 2 people can twist and rotate the system apart. (That's the nice thing GM did by using the band clamps)

Once they're separated, each muffler will fall down at the rear and you and can rotate the pipes over the half shaft. Careful not to hit any wires.

Seriously, jacking up and securing the car will be the most time-consuming part.

Clean up the parts going back in, test fit the system on the floor before trying to do it under the car and spray some lubricant on the pipes and the rubber hangers for easy install.

I used a file and emery cloth to remove any burrs and high spots.

You "may" need to expand the new crossover pipe slightly. It gets
compressed when installed but you'll see they're a split pipe and really not deformed.

No problem, I just used a large pipe wrench handle and a claw hammer inserted next to it and gently pried it open. Use your imagination and any other tools you have lying around for this purpose.

No need for a $40 pipe expander.

As I said, test fit everything while out from under the car and installation will be a breeze.

Get all your parts where they need to be and reverse order the install.

Get the cat back over the shafts. Careful not to hit anything. There are wires and stuff.
You and your buddy can now reconnect the pipes and start loosely bolting things together. Get the springy things on too.
Before tightening up, make sure the tips are straight and level and torque down.

If you're going with M2W NPP in-a-box, drill the holes before getting the mufflers in place. There's a ton more room that way.
Follow their instructions.
But I ran my vacuum lines along the passenger side and under the rocker panel and through the wheel well instead of through the tunnel plate. Used zip ties to keep things supported and out of the way. It's well protected from the elements and doesn't get the heat from the tunnel.

I used the front vacuum port on the manifold and got the quick connect that they sell with the system. I made a little Z bracket to hold the connect in the port and used the screw holding the sensor which is relocated to hold it down. This will be very evident when you're doing it BTW.

The electrical wires run as instructed as well.

Good luck. Email or PM if you need help.

...George
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