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I decided to go with a DIY plan for my hatch recall notice, for personal reasons Total cost of new hinges from GMParts #20986700 was $46 shipped. Nothing else needed other than time and patience. The trick I found to obtaining proper alignment on install of new hinges was to have carefully marked the original hinge and hinge retainer plate areas, and with the hatch removed then carefully mark the exact areas of the hinge on the hatch. Install just reversal of the removal process taking care to put everything back exactly where it was from the factory. This resulted in my hatch being perfectly centered and closing properly without any problems. Total time was about 4 hours but I went real slow and did this alone Other photos obtained if questions. Just wanted to give back to the forum on something that worked for me. New hatches appeared nearly identical to the original ones but had different numbers stamped on them and a dab of orange paint on one of the surfaces not present on the old hinges.
No, as I indicated they appear identical. There are different numbers stamped on them, but I saw no obvious change in metal thickness or hinge dimensions etc.
No, the hatch can be completely removed safely without removal of the halo, all that is needed is remove the struts, the inside roof bow plastic trim, the various hinge and plate nuts and bolts. The hinges remain attached to the hatch which is pulled rearward and the hinges slide out of the compartment they fit into in the roof, then with the hatch completely separated the hinges can then be removed from the hatch. The roof bow sh/be well protected with masking tape and cloth towels as in my photos. This photo shows the hatch suspended completely separated from my car.
New hatches appeared nearly identical to the original ones but had different numbers stamped on them and a dab of orange paint on one of the surfaces not present on the old hinges.
Did you consider that maybe the parts you got from GM Parts House are in fact the "defective" part?
Did you consider that maybe the parts you got from GM Parts House are in fact the "defective" part?
Actually I spoke to a GMParts Manager about my order before completing the order, asking how to verify that exact question. I was told the newer "correct" hinges would have the different numbers including the 20986700 stamped on them and would also have the orange dab of paint on them. This is exactly what I received from GMParts. The original hinges I took off do not have 20986700 stamped they have different numbers
Nice job doing that by yourself. How did you support the hatch?
Low ceiling workspace, multiple bungee cords around the perimeter of the hatch, heavy padded wire from rear latch assembly for firm weight bearing, two adjustable heavy duty straps at front of hatch for weight bearing, raise rear of hatch up quite high with struts off, fix that height, this allows access to hinge nuts, mark hinge outlines, then lower hatch to near horizontal and fix that height, remove plastic trim to access hinge plates inside, mark hinge outlines, remove plate bolts then remove hinge plate assemblies, slightly raise all suspension cords roll car forward about 4 inches, tease hinges (pull) out from roof recesses until clear of car, then raise all cords to allow full access to hinge mounts on hatch. Reverse all that for install. Basically just a system of suspending hatch and adjusting open angle and overall height as needed
Did you consider that maybe the parts you got from GM Parts House are in fact the "defective" part?
why would GM put different hindges in the 2011-2012 models??? crazy thing to change so late in the C6s life cycle ...or did safety specs change in 2011? either way it's strange that only those two model years are effected...
why would GM put different hindges in the 2011-2012 models??? crazy thing to change so late in the C6s life cycle ...or did safety specs change in 2011? either way it's strange that only those two model years are effected...
That is a good question, I wonder if the specs changed.
So you had to pay the $46 or they gave them to you. I assume you paid as you installed......
Frank
Yes, as this is a DIY post I indicated what I paid ($46) for everything needed for the install. Obviously if you have the dealer do this, hinges are free. Very much worth $46 to me NOT to have the dealer do it
Low ceiling workspace, multiple bungee cords around the perimeter of the hatch, heavy padded wire from rear latch assembly for firm weight bearing, two adjustable heavy duty straps at front of hatch for weight bearing, raise rear of hatch up quite high with struts off, fix that height, this allows access to hinge nuts, mark hinge outlines, then lower hatch to near horizontal and fix that height, remove plastic trim to access hinge plates inside, mark hinge outlines, remove plate bolts then remove hinge plate assemblies, slightly raise all suspension cords roll car forward about 4 inches, tease hinges (pull) out from roof recesses until clear of car, then raise all cords to allow full access to hinge mounts on hatch. Reverse all that for install. Basically just a system of suspending hatch and adjusting open angle and overall height as needed
Very well thought out. Hatch R&R can take 3 guys otherwise. Looks like it helps to have the top off to get to the body side fasteners. Might be a little tougher on a Z06 or a ZR1? Thanks for sharing!