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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 06:55 PM
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Default Voltage drop

I had my first experience with a dead battery. The car sat for 2 weeks and it went dead, eventually I figured out it may be user error, I drove it with the mild2wild in quiet mode and forgot to change it before it sat. So I got the battery to a full charge 2.87v not running and left the hood open to monitor the drop. It is going down .1 volt per day, which is way more than my 07 which dropped .02v per day. The '10 does have more electronics (07 was mn6 no nav etc, 10 is a6 nav and all that) but the difference is alarming, I am thinking I have a drain like I have read about. I am bringing it in Monday to the dealer (first time) but wondered if anyone had any voltage measurements to share.

BTW I went back and read Shopdog's posts on the topic, very helpful. Also read that 30 milliamps is normal draw but I do not know how to translate that into a voltage reading...

Many Thanks.

Last edited by Beezvette; Nov 15, 2011 at 06:57 PM.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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There is no direct relationship/conversion for volts to milliamps. Milliamps is the only reference I've ever seen or used for car battery draw tests. Assuming the dealer does in fact do a draw test your car the result will be in milliamps. Then you can make comparisons.

You probably already know but, for the future you may consider using a Battery Tender any time you know the car won't be driven for a week or more OR consider a Priority Start device.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RicK T
There is no direct relationship/conversion for volts to milliamps. Milliamps is the only reference I've ever seen or used for car battery draw tests. Assuming the dealer does in fact do a draw test your car the result will be in milliamps. Then you can make comparisons.

You probably already know but, for the future you may consider using a Battery Tender any time you know the car won't be driven for a week or more OR consider a Priority Start device.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RicK T
There is no direct relationship/conversion for volts to milliamps. Milliamps is the only reference I've ever seen or used for car battery draw tests. Assuming the dealer does in fact do a draw test your car the result will be in milliamps. Then you can make comparisons.

You probably already know but, for the future you may consider using a Battery Tender any time you know the car won't be driven for a week or more OR consider a Priority Start device.
Yes I normally keep it on a charger when I leave it for more than 3 weeks; that will have to change. Meanwhile it seems odd to me, the only way we have to assess the health of the battery is in volts, and a drop in voltage is the issue, I will have to see what the dealer has to say, meanwhile the drop in voltage is far greater than my 07, hopefully the dealer will find an issue.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:28 PM
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Hard to believe the static draw is only 30 ma (.030 amps).

(what's the amphour rating of a Vette starting battery?)
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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FWIW, we would occasionally leave our 2006 and now the 2009; sitting in a freezing cold garage for up to 3 weeks with no tender or charger. They always started normally.

That suggests that if your battery is going dead in that time, you either have an unusual parasitic draw (like to OP's MTW setup), or your battery is on the way out.

I finally bought a CTEK to use for those idle periods, trying to be nice to the replacement battery (old one was still ok, but had a hard life)
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebel 1
Our '02 and '09 pull the Same amount of voltage at rest, 17-20 Milliamps.
Onstar fuse removed on '09.
Your results may vary.

Bob
Bob how did you figure that out?
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebel 1
Our '02 and '09 pull the Same amount of voltage at rest, 17-20 Milliamps.
Onstar fuse removed on '09.
Your results may vary.

Bob
You mean current
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by KenHorse
You mean current
Yea, i mean.....O.k.

Bob
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebel 1

Set meter to milliamps.
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Connect one meter wire to Neg. cable and the other wire to Neg. battery post.
It will take about 5 min. for the car to "go to sleep".
Milliamps will count down to final reading during that time. Take your reading.
Excellent and to the point. I have a couple meters I bought at Harbor Fright for under $10 and one that cost over $200. They all read within two milliamps. My 08 pulls 38. Never bothered with the OnStar fuse. Later! Frank
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:52 PM
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You can get a 'Current Clamp' for your meter that allows you to take readings without disconnecting the cable being measured.

They come in various ranges of sensitivity and max cable-diameter sizes.

You can also get a stand-alone meter if you don't have a fairly good Multimeter already.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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Beezvette,
There are several inexpensive products you can use to monitor your batteries voltage and charge. However, what I'm reading here suggests to me your battery is on the way out. You might wanna replace it just to avoid being put in a bad situation down the road.

Chevrolet Customer Service,
Justin
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by **** Jockey
You can get a 'Current Clamp' for your meter that allows you to take readings without disconnecting the cable being measured.

They come in various ranges of sensitivity and max cable-diameter sizes.

You can also get a stand-alone meter if you don't have a fairly good Multimeter already.

Just remember when you use one of those attachments, you can only obtain a meaningful reading if you test only one of the legs, either pos or neg.

Many cables that are accessible are enclosed with a jacket and neither leg is readily accessible individually.

Last edited by pcguy2u; Nov 16, 2011 at 08:56 PM. Reason: fumbling fingers
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy Cust Svc
Beezvette,
There are several inexpensive products you can use to monitor your batteries voltage and charge. However, what I'm reading here suggests to me your battery is on the way out. You might wanna replace it just to avoid being put in a bad situation down the road.

Chevrolet Customer Service,
Justin
Justin I am bringing the car in for service monday, we'll see what Jackson Chevrolet in Middletown CT has to say.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by **** Jockey
You can get a 'Current Clamp' for your meter that allows you to take readings without disconnecting the cable being measured.

They come in various ranges of sensitivity and max cable-diameter sizes.

You can also get a stand-alone meter if you don't have a fairly good Multimeter already.
Where do I get one of these??? Better than disconnecting the battery.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pcguy2u
Just remember when you use one of those attachments, you can only obtain a meaningful reading if you testing on one of the legs, either pos or neg.

Many cables that are accessible are enclosed with a jacket and neither leg is readily accessible individually.
Are you saying that you need bare cable to measure?
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 08:58 PM
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No, just a single conductor. Testing a jacketed cable with two conductors inside will not give you a meaningful reading, or for that matter, any reading at all.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 09:02 PM
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Use a Battery Tender and you can worry about other things like top tier gas, tire pressure car wax etc.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Beezvette
Better than disconnecting the battery.
That can be very difficult!
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