Got the DIC message "No Fob detected", replace batteries in all Fobs, replace car battery, reprogrammed all Fobs, still no start, get the green button, push button all dashlights goes out, click, click,click then 8-10 seconds later it come back with green start button. This process is repeated over and over, then I noticed fuel gauge is reading zero, then I jump it with other car motor running, all gauges working including fuel gauge, it starts. I let it run until everything was at operating temperature, thinking it might not start, scare to drive anywhere. Turned it off, it would not start. Tomorrow I'll charge the new battery, wait a couple hours then check it with a multimeter and recharge it to see what happen. Car is driven every two to three days sometimes daily, don't understand it, have read alot of posts but I still can't get it to act right. Been under the car, check around the headers, all the wires at the starter seem to be tight, car has been down since Tuesday.

 

Something besides starting the car is draining the battery, or else the new battery you installed was low or defective.

 

Sorry for your troubles. My fob was acting up a few weeks ago. Doors would not open and engine would not start. It turns out my new cell phone was causing the problems.

 

I know it's too late now, but when you change fob batteries, you don't have to reprogram the fobs.

Good Luck.

 

If you jumped the car and it worked fine, you've identified the problem yourself. The battery was either low or its time for a new one. They do not last forever.

 

It's not uncommon to get a new battery that needs charging. They can sit on the shelve for months before you buy it. I always put a new battery on the charger before installing it. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Never had a problem with the Fobs opening the doors, hatch or setting off the the alarm or disarming it, I thought that maybe reprogramming them would help but it didn't. Going to go outside and recheck the wiring again I don't think its the battery, normally when you first enter the car you get the green button and all the lights and gauges are working but I'm not getting engine light or fuel gauge reading. Hopefully I can find the culpit.

 

Well, I still don't believe its the battery. Because I change out the battery with a brand new and still the same problem. Yesterday afternoon on the passenger side where the fuse box are I found two wires (Black wire running to ground and the red wire wrap aroung the fuse leg under a small black cover on the wiper side), so I call the previous owner and ask what the wires was for, he said for the shift light on the A pillar stating that was the only thing hook up beside the Ipod hookup. I check the shift light and there was a green wire also, I followed the wire up to the factory harness and there is where I saw about four wire butcher up I guess searching for the rev wire, I saw several pieces of black tape wrap around wires that was twisted together and not solder or shrink wrap, a couple of wire cut in half not hook to anything, I think they had pull a part from the loping of the cam. I found where the one set would hook back together but the other set had a different color upon further checking I found the wire was short for him to twist together so he add an extension to it, I was **** at this point, I couldn't believe someone doing a car like that and the car is still under warranty for the powertrain till July 2012, even thought it is heavy modified there is no warranty block yet but if I take it to chevrolet it will be block as soon as they hear it. Now I realize there is a reason people trade or get rid of a car but never seen someone cut into the main harness. Today its raining but the next good day I will check the Ipod wiring, the satellite and the navigation unit basically everything under the dash and the engine bay. Sorry for rant and rave, I had to get it off my chest.

 

as you said, it sounds pretty butchered and cut up. you may have found where the problem begins. good luck with it.

 

Still haven't figured out how I want to do the wires yet so it doesn't look like a whackup job just in case the dealer decide to look in the fuse compartment on the passenger side for something. Well I doubled check everything again and noticed the Thief-Deterrent light is on continuously, pressing the Fobs unarm does nothing. I retried all the Fobs, the car recognizes it as trunk release, doors, windows and the accessories mode all works but the light won't cut off. I think its lock in that mode, that I'm trying to steal the car and the immodilizer is activated. I call the dealer about it and their corvette specialist said there was no reset (but I had read in this forum that there was and if that didn't work take it to the dealer), he suggest a towing company and said that the powertrain warranty should cover it. I told him the car was modified, ie, vx-5 racing cam, springs and borla exhaust, he said that shouldn't be a problem as long as that isn't a part of the problem and they wouldn't involved a warranty block and let the warranty pay for the service and the towing. I wonder can I trust them. Well I decide to go ahead and put the mods on from CorvetteMods, the HID Fogs, led interior light and the super bright reverse led. I finish all mods and was working with the first foglight when I heard this long odd sound like a servo or something, I stop what I was doing, went an look at the dash and saw the check engine lit and the gas gauge working, I thought to myself let me try to start it, it wouldn't start, I push the start button to off, heard a click and she roared to life. I let warm up and I drove about 8 miles and came back and park it, hopefully tomorrow it crank because the Thief-Deterrent light is off. I will keep you informed. Good night.

 

After reading everything I could on the subject and someone having a simliar problems, they replace the ecm, so I order a ecm with the latest update and the security lamp went off and the car started immediately without a relearn. Start up now everytime, the dtc codes are P0300, P0171 and P0315, now I have try and get it to Venegance Racing because they did the first tune, to get the tune put back in the new ecm. There seem to be no one in Augusta with tuning ability.

 

Had the same problem as you.

I had my battery changed in October. Brought the car home and put it in the garage on the Battery Tender Plus (BTP). Car was not started in a month. BTP was always solid green. Went to get in the car in Demember and had the same problem. Went in through the back hatch. Same clicking as you on startup. After about 3 tries the car started. Got the other FOB and went through the same thing. (I also figured it was time to change the batteriers in the FOB) Finally got the second FOB to work. Got the car back to the place where I got battery and had the battery tested. It tested good, 12.5 volts.

I have no idea what caused it and it seems to be OK now but it's only been a week.

Only thing I would suggest is check your battery terminals and also the new battery. They were the most suggestions I got from my post.

Good Luck

 

If you are coming to atlanta for vengence racing go to Jim Ellis chev Peachtree industrial just inside 285. Ask for David Fulcher he can straighten wiring out best corvette tech I've ever seen. Ron at Vengence knows David he will tell you the same thing.
z51vett

 

Thanks