TSLAVette

do you use ramps, the jack/stands or all of the above?

I was thinking jack/stand drain, remove filter, drop, drain more, jack/stand, install filter (with oil in it), reinstall plug/gasket, clean up, drop & fill.

Other option was drive onto ramps, jack and support rear for 'level' lift, drain, ...

What's easiest & best method for C6?

KM1959

Long ramps are easiest if you trust yourself driving on them. I don't so I jack it up.

peter pan

I use jack stands and have been doing it that way since my C5 days

mksz51

Just use jack stands and drain, remove filter, install filter, and fill with oil. You'll NEVER get all the old oil out of the engine anyway so the "level" the vehicle to enhance the drain is a waste of time and effort. It's a pushrod V8 - great output from an HP and torque standpoint to be certain - but pretty simple /durable construction and proven over time (since 1955 for Chevrolet).

TSLAVette

Just the front?

tfkrato

I use ramps - work great.

BEZ06

I've done it both ways, but lately have been just jacking it on the left side, putting a stand under it for safety while I'm under there to slide the oil collection pan under and remove the plugs and filter, then lower to let it all drain out.

I see in your profile that you have a 2008 coupe, so you don't have the dry-sump system. You shouldn't have any problem because you don't need a real large drain pan to collect the drained oil and it should be low enough to allow you to lower the car with it under the oil pan.

However, for those that do have a dry-sump, just make sure you have a large enough oil collection pan, and that if you do lower the car that it won't squash your pan!!

Early Z06 dry-sump systems had 7.5 quart systems, I think it went up to about 8.5 quarts for the '08 model year, and in '09 it went up to the current 10.5 quarts that all GS and ZR1's will also have. So....you'll need a large enough pan to collect that much, and make sure it isn't too high to lower the car down to drain all the oil.

Some real **** dry-sump owners will lower the car level to drain, then raise the right side to make sure they get it all, but the dry-sump engines have 2 drain plugs, but the oil-pan engine just has one.

Also, owners with a dry-sump, make sure you add the oil to the dry-sump tank!!! There's a cap on the valve cover like on the oil-pan engines, but it has plastic tabs that are supposed to keep you from opening it. But, there have been numerous reports of shops that have broken the tabs and added oil in there, and it can damage the dry-sump engine if that is done - at the very least you can get the plastic tabs circulating around.

Have being a DIY'er!!!

Bob

ByByBMW

I can't really help you because my neighbor has a repair shop and he graciously allows me to use his lifts to change my oil. I guess it pays to be neighborly.

Dave S

Ramps at front; jack the rear to level; then jackstands for safety. Remember if you've got the Z51 option....there are grease fittings at the rear ball joints (one each side). I give them a couple of shots at each oil change.....just enough to fill the boot.

Don-Vette

I just jack under a puck behind the drivers wheel,to just reach under from there,drain plug and filter are within arms reach.

choprfgr

Right on DT455.

I had gotten a little apprehensive after reading up on Jacking Pucks,
on rocker damage , on oil change, etc ,etc.
Went to Walmart - cause they carry those 5 quart containers, got a PF48.
Needed a new filter wrench for the tiny filter - got that at O-Reilly's ( a fiber one)
came home ready to jack the rear - balance the front - and all. Got my race jack
under the front-side puck ( BMW pucks BTW - very nice) took a look and that's
when I realized that this is no different from my pickup or any other Chevy.
I can do an oil change without getting under the car - lo-profile drain pan - 3 foot
extension - filter wrench on the ratchet. Pull the filled up pan aside re-installed
the plug with the 3 foot extension cleaned up everything and installed the new filter. I then filled it up with Castrol synthetic titanium
did a detail job with Simple Green.

TSLAVette

Thanks, Bob. Your method seems to have consensus as easiest ... count me in for that!

Rocketmanwpb

Ramps in the front I that I purchased at Discount Auto Parts when I had a C5. I jack up the rear and place jack stands. Works fine.

FortMorganAl

With a long extension for the wrench to get more leverage I can get the plug out without jacking or ramps. Filter is also reachable. Wally World has an inexpensive low profile pan that works great.

The biggest problem I see with ramps is you are going to leave dirty oil in the back of the pan if you don't raise the rear also. If you are going to go to the trouble of raising the rear you could just as easily have raised the front and then lowered it while it drained.

v1 rot8

I use the 87" 2 piece Race Ramps. They are 10" high so plenty of room to get under for an oil change. I jacked up the back of my C5 for that little bit of extra oil that would drain out. Not sure if I have to do that with the new GS. Guess I will on my first oil change just to see if any extra comes out. I have heard I should lift up on the oil lines to/fr the sump to drain those.

GOLD72

I drive the front and rear wheels on wood ramps high enough to give me clearance with a regular 3.5 ton Sears floor jack to lift the entire front and rear of the car. I use a wooden lifting beam set on top of the jack cradle. I place the front wheels on ramps and jack stands to support the rear. I can do everything I need to do in the way of maintenance and inspection from front to rear this way and avoid the hazard to driving the car over the top of the ramps which wouldn't be pretty.

Street Rat

Turn the front wheels all the way to the right. A few strokes on a jack at the left front puck position and you have great access to the drain plug and filter between the rear of the tire and fender. Call me lazy but it takes all of about 10 minutes.

c54u

no need to complicate things!! You can actually remove the jack once the car is high enough and the car stays at that height.

carpe dm

I always use jack stands. I can't keep ramps from sliding all over the place when I try to drive up on them, so I sold those turkeys and bought a good jack! Ramps get in the way when working under the car........

JoesC5

The easest, but not the cheapest, is a 4-post lift. Oh, and you can use it to store a car on also. That's why I have two of them. If you don't need to store a car on one, they can be used to store all that junk that seems to occupy your garage. Good for storing seasonal items also.