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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 01:32 PM
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Just wondering what procedure should be followed after your C6 sits for the winter storage. With my classic cars I usually turn them over with the coil wire off for a few revs. before starting them up. Just wondered if there was a procedure with the C6.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 01:34 PM
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Push the accelerator to the floor and hit the starter button. The engine will turn over for a few seconds without firing. When it stops, release the throttle and push starter button again, and it will fire right up.

Basically pre-lubes the cam, lifters etc like you used to do with the old cars, just easier to do now.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by OnPoint
Push the accelerator to the floor and hit the starter button...
Just to be clear: Push and hold the gas pedal to the floor, then press & release the starter button.

A bit nerve-wracking the first time you try it. No worries, it cranks without starting -- until you release the pedal.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 03:26 PM
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Thanks
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 04:25 PM
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On my third C6 and multiple winters. After the obligatory battery charge I get in the car, push in the clutch, shift out of reverse and into neutral, hold my breath a little, and hit the starter button. It has always started right up, sounds exactly like it did the last time I ran it as I check all the gauges. After about one minute or so I back out of the garage and drive down my street. I go about a mile and a half still watching the gauges, usually about 30 MPH in third gear. Next I take it to the SUNOCO station to fill the tank because I store it as empty as possible due to the e-10 gas. I then head out of town, a run of about 3 more miles and then take it up through the gears at a good clip. Never had a problem after storage or with any engine issue ever in any of my C6s. As fellow NH resident Alan Shepard said: "Everything is A-OK."
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by CO Lightfoot
Just to be clear: Push and hold the gas pedal to the floor, then press & release the starter button.

A bit nerve-wracking the first time you try it. No worries, it cranks without starting -- until you release the pedal.


Yup, that's what I meant. But good point to make it clear, cuz it doesn't work otherwise.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 11:27 PM
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Won't the car start if you press the start button and hold the gas pedal down?
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Stevenyc777
Won't the car start if you press the start button and hold the gas pedal down?
Nope. The vehicle enters a mode in which will not enable the injectors. Just be sure to be at WOT, and THEN press START.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by hangtime204
Nope. The vehicle enters a mode in which will not enable the injectors. Just be sure to be at WOT, and THEN press START.
Tx I will try this...
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by CO Lightfoot
A bit nerve-wracking the first time you try it. No worries, it cranks without starting -- until you release the pedal.
Originally Posted by hangtime204
The vehicle enters a mode in which will not enable the injectors. Just be sure to be at WOT, and THEN press START.
I honestly don't believe there is such a mode. Unless somebody proves such mode exists from ECU schematics, I wouldn't do that folks. And yes, I was told the same thing about my bike, and stupidly held the throttle wide open with the throttle lock (no doubt it was 100% WOT), and it started right before releasing the starter button. By the time I reached the key, it was a good second or two bouncing off the rev limiter on cold oil. NOT GOOD!

What happens is it takes longer for the engine to fire up because the extra air being sucked in due to an open butterfly, BUT ENGINE CAN FIRE UP AT ANY TIME. And most importantly, whether you just crank the engine or fire it up, it takes the same number of rpm to pump oil to critical parts, and 400 or 1,000 rpm makes little difference. Just start the engine normally folks. IT'S SAFER .
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ELP_JC
I honestly don't believe there is such a mode. Unless somebody proves such mode exists from ECU schematics, I wouldn't do that folks. And yes, I was told the same thing about my bike, and stupidly held the throttle wide open with the throttle lock (no doubt it was 100% WOT), and it started right before releasing the starter button. By the time I reached the key, it was a good second or two bouncing off the rev limiter on cold oil. NOT GOOD!

What happens is it takes longer for the engine to fire up because the extra air being sucked in due to an open butterfly, BUT ENGINE CAN FIRE UP AT ANY TIME. And most importantly, whether you just crank the engine or fire it up, it takes the same number of rpm to pump oil to critical parts, and 400 or 1,000 rpm makes little difference. Just start the engine normally folks. IT'S SAFER .
That's what I thought when I first read the thread I would hate for my car to fire up after sitting for two months at WOT!
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 09:50 AM
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I'm just thinking out loud so don't hit me with a brick. Isn't the engine still turning over dry? Whats the advantage over just starting it?
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 09:57 AM
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I have never had any issues with just starting normally.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 10:00 AM
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Here's what I do after storage......

I hit the starter button and it fires right up just like I had shut it down five minutes ago.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by door2416
I'm just thinking out loud so don't hit me with a brick. Isn't the engine still turning over dry? Whats the advantage over just starting it?
Turning it over dry, I am guessing, doesn't spin it nearly as much as a regualar start, so would makes sense it would be much safer... Assuing it works every time...
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ELP_JC
I honestly don't believe there is such a mode...
I didn't believe it either. That's why I tried it for the first time last year after a long drive (not after sitting for months).

It works.

But don't take anyone's word for it. Try it yourself, you'll see.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by door2416
I'm just thinking out loud so don't hit me with a brick. Isn't the engine still turning over dry? Whats the advantage over just starting it?
I think you can debate any possible advantage. For instance, if it's important to get the oil circulating before the engine starts, why not do it all the time?

IMO if there's any advantage, it's so minimal that it practically doesn't matter.

On the other hand, I don't see any disadvantage to cranking for a little while.

So if it makes you feel better, why not?

Anyway, I think it's MUCH MUCH more important what you do after it starts... definitely drive easy until it warms up.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 12:14 PM
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This works,I have done this for years in all of my vehicles after every oil change. This makes sure the filter is full so there is no lag in lubrication. I also do this after one of them sits for an extended period. I do this in my explorer,f150,challenger, sable, and z06.....if anyone is scared to try this, do it with your daily driver.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CO Lightfoot

Anyway, I think it's MUCH MUCH more important what you do after it starts... definitely drive easy until it warms up.
A long time ago I read an article about Ferraris and proper warm up procedure. It was something to do with water/condensation in the oil from sitting overnight. The Ferrari needed to idle for a bit and then be run very easy for the first few miles or so, in order for the temp to warm up and burn all the water out of the motor oil. The reasoning was the water thins the oil until it burns off.

I followed my friend the other day, after he started his car from cold, and was amazed to see water still coming out of the exaust after about 5 miles of following him. It was about 45 degrees out. I don't know though if that water is from the actual exaust, motor, or a combo of both?

Last edited by s_c5519; Feb 24, 2012 at 12:50 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by john5519
A long time ago I read an article about Ferraris and proper warm up procedure. It was something to do with water/condensation in the oil from sitting overnight. The Ferrari needed to idle for a bit and then be run very easy for the first few miles or so, in order for the temp to warm up and burn all the water out of the motor oil. The reasoning was the water thins the oil until it burns off.

I followed my friend the other day, after he started his car from cold, and was amazed to see water still coming out of the exaust after about 5 miles of following him. It was about 45 degrees out. I don't know though if that water is from the actual exaust, motor, or a combo of both?
Water dripping out the tail pipes happens when the hot exhust gases excape into the cold exhust pipes and turns into condensation. When the exhust completely heats up it will stop.
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