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Just wondering what procedure should be followed after your C6 sits for the winter storage. With my classic cars I usually turn them over with the coil wire off for a few revs. before starting them up. Just wondered if there was a procedure with the C6.
Push the accelerator to the floor and hit the starter button. The engine will turn over for a few seconds without firing. When it stops, release the throttle and push starter button again, and it will fire right up.
Basically pre-lubes the cam, lifters etc like you used to do with the old cars, just easier to do now.
On my third C6 and multiple winters. After the obligatory battery charge I get in the car, push in the clutch, shift out of reverse and into neutral, hold my breath a little, and hit the starter button. It has always started right up, sounds exactly like it did the last time I ran it as I check all the gauges. After about one minute or so I back out of the garage and drive down my street. I go about a mile and a half still watching the gauges, usually about 30 MPH in third gear. Next I take it to the SUNOCO station to fill the tank because I store it as empty as possible due to the e-10 gas. I then head out of town, a run of about 3 more miles and then take it up through the gears at a good clip. Never had a problem after storage or with any engine issue ever in any of my C6s. As fellow NH resident Alan Shepard said: "Everything is A-OK."
A bit nerve-wracking the first time you try it. No worries, it cranks without starting -- until you release the pedal.
Originally Posted by hangtime204
The vehicle enters a mode in which will not enable the injectors. Just be sure to be at WOT, and THEN press START.
I honestly don't believe there is such a mode. Unless somebody proves such mode exists from ECU schematics, I wouldn't do that folks. And yes, I was told the same thing about my bike, and stupidly held the throttle wide open with the throttle lock (no doubt it was 100% WOT), and it started right before releasing the starter button. By the time I reached the key, it was a good second or two bouncing off the rev limiter on cold oil. NOT GOOD!
What happens is it takes longer for the engine to fire up because the extra air being sucked in due to an open butterfly, BUT ENGINE CAN FIRE UP AT ANY TIME. And most importantly, whether you just crank the engine or fire it up, it takes the same number of rpm to pump oil to critical parts, and 400 or 1,000 rpm makes little difference. Just start the engine normally folks. IT'S SAFER .
I honestly don't believe there is such a mode. Unless somebody proves such mode exists from ECU schematics, I wouldn't do that folks. And yes, I was told the same thing about my bike, and stupidly held the throttle wide open with the throttle lock (no doubt it was 100% WOT), and it started right before releasing the starter button. By the time I reached the key, it was a good second or two bouncing off the rev limiter on cold oil. NOT GOOD!
What happens is it takes longer for the engine to fire up because the extra air being sucked in due to an open butterfly, BUT ENGINE CAN FIRE UP AT ANY TIME. And most importantly, whether you just crank the engine or fire it up, it takes the same number of rpm to pump oil to critical parts, and 400 or 1,000 rpm makes little difference. Just start the engine normally folks. IT'S SAFER .
That's what I thought when I first read the thread I would hate for my car to fire up after sitting for two months at WOT!
I'm just thinking out loud so don't hit me with a brick. Isn't the engine still turning over dry? Whats the advantage over just starting it?
Turning it over dry, I am guessing, doesn't spin it nearly as much as a regualar start, so would makes sense it would be much safer... Assuing it works every time...
I'm just thinking out loud so don't hit me with a brick. Isn't the engine still turning over dry? Whats the advantage over just starting it?
I think you can debate any possible advantage. For instance, if it's important to get the oil circulating before the engine starts, why not do it all the time?
IMO if there's any advantage, it's so minimal that it practically doesn't matter.
On the other hand, I don't see any disadvantage to cranking for a little while.
So if it makes you feel better, why not?
Anyway, I think it's MUCH MUCH more important what you do after it starts... definitely drive easy until it warms up.
This works,I have done this for years in all of my vehicles after every oil change. This makes sure the filter is full so there is no lag in lubrication. I also do this after one of them sits for an extended period. I do this in my explorer,f150,challenger, sable, and z06.....if anyone is scared to try this, do it with your daily driver.
Anyway, I think it's MUCH MUCH more important what you do after it starts... definitely drive easy until it warms up.
A long time ago I read an article about Ferraris and proper warm up procedure. It was something to do with water/condensation in the oil from sitting overnight. The Ferrari needed to idle for a bit and then be run very easy for the first few miles or so, in order for the temp to warm up and burn all the water out of the motor oil. The reasoning was the water thins the oil until it burns off.
I followed my friend the other day, after he started his car from cold, and was amazed to see water still coming out of the exaust after about 5 miles of following him. It was about 45 degrees out. I don't know though if that water is from the actual exaust, motor, or a combo of both?
A long time ago I read an article about Ferraris and proper warm up procedure. It was something to do with water/condensation in the oil from sitting overnight. The Ferrari needed to idle for a bit and then be run very easy for the first few miles or so, in order for the temp to warm up and burn all the water out of the motor oil. The reasoning was the water thins the oil until it burns off.
I followed my friend the other day, after he started his car from cold, and was amazed to see water still coming out of the exaust after about 5 miles of following him. It was about 45 degrees out. I don't know though if that water is from the actual exaust, motor, or a combo of both?
Water dripping out the tail pipes happens when the hot exhust gases excape into the cold exhust pipes and turns into condensation. When the exhust completely heats up it will stop.