Brakes
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 314
From: Morris Co. NJ
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18,'21
If for some reason you do decide to DIY you will have to open the brake fluid reservoir and then push (compress) the pistons on the calipers to make room for the new pads. If you don't the new pads won't clear the rotors. You will just have to watch the fluid level because you are moving fluid back into the reservoir.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 76
From: Marshall, Missouri
I purchased new GM Z-51 oem factory cross drilled rotors & GM ceramic pads for my '08 coupe recently from Kevin Cassimore at PartsTaxi (forum vendor):
2 - GM # 89060328 front rotor @ $84.36 ea - $168.72
2 - GM # 89060329 rear rotor @ $79.18 ea 158.36
Subtotal Rotors: $327.08
1 Pr GM # 88909667 ceramic brake pads front: $57.43
1 Pr GM # 88909668 crramic brake pads rear: 57.43
Subtotal Pads: $114.86
Total Rotors & Pads $441.94 plus shipping
I think the shipping was about 50 bucks; this stuff is heavy.
I installed them myself, taking my time, in a couple hours. All you need is a floor jack and some basic tools (and a torque wrench). No bleeding is involved, just a straight remove the old parts and bolt on the new ones. I am no mechanic and I thought it was an easy job. Brakes have been great, no problems, hardly any brake dust and they are absolutely quiet; no squealing or squeaking whatsoever. If you can get your hands on the service manual for your car (I have one for mine) it is a big help for a novice as it has detailed step by step instructions, with illustrations, and specs. which helps a bunch.
2 - GM # 89060328 front rotor @ $84.36 ea - $168.72
2 - GM # 89060329 rear rotor @ $79.18 ea 158.36
Subtotal Rotors: $327.08
1 Pr GM # 88909667 ceramic brake pads front: $57.43
1 Pr GM # 88909668 crramic brake pads rear: 57.43
Subtotal Pads: $114.86
Total Rotors & Pads $441.94 plus shipping
I think the shipping was about 50 bucks; this stuff is heavy.
I installed them myself, taking my time, in a couple hours. All you need is a floor jack and some basic tools (and a torque wrench). No bleeding is involved, just a straight remove the old parts and bolt on the new ones. I am no mechanic and I thought it was an easy job. Brakes have been great, no problems, hardly any brake dust and they are absolutely quiet; no squealing or squeaking whatsoever. If you can get your hands on the service manual for your car (I have one for mine) it is a big help for a novice as it has detailed step by step instructions, with illustrations, and specs. which helps a bunch.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
I purchased new GM Z-51 oem factory cross drilled rotors & GM ceramic pads for my '08 coupe recently from Kevin Cassimore at PartsTaxi (forum vendor):
2 - GM # 89060328 front rotor @ $84.36 ea - $168.72
2 - GM # 89060329 rear rotor @ $79.18 ea 158.36
Subtotal Rotors: $327.08
1 Pr GM # 88909667 ceramic brake pads front: $57.43
1 Pr GM # 88909668 crramic brake pads rear: 57.43
Subtotal Pads: $114.86
Total Rotors & Pads $441.94 plus shipping
I think the shipping was about 50 bucks; this stuff is heavy.
I installed them myself, taking my time, in a couple hours. All you need is a floor jack and some basic tools (and a torque wrench). No bleeding is involved, just a straight remove the old parts and bolt on the new ones. I am no mechanic and I thought it was an easy job. Brakes have been great, no problems, hardly any brake dust and they are absolutely quiet; no squealing or squeaking whatsoever. If you can get your hands on the service manual for your car (I have one for mine) it is a big help for a novice as it has detailed step by step instructions, with illustrations, and specs. which helps a bunch.
2 - GM # 89060328 front rotor @ $84.36 ea - $168.72
2 - GM # 89060329 rear rotor @ $79.18 ea 158.36
Subtotal Rotors: $327.08
1 Pr GM # 88909667 ceramic brake pads front: $57.43
1 Pr GM # 88909668 crramic brake pads rear: 57.43
Subtotal Pads: $114.86
Total Rotors & Pads $441.94 plus shipping
I think the shipping was about 50 bucks; this stuff is heavy.
I installed them myself, taking my time, in a couple hours. All you need is a floor jack and some basic tools (and a torque wrench). No bleeding is involved, just a straight remove the old parts and bolt on the new ones. I am no mechanic and I thought it was an easy job. Brakes have been great, no problems, hardly any brake dust and they are absolutely quiet; no squealing or squeaking whatsoever. If you can get your hands on the service manual for your car (I have one for mine) it is a big help for a novice as it has detailed step by step instructions, with illustrations, and specs. which helps a bunch.
Thank you for the part numbers that is a big help
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 846
Likes: 3
From: Las Vegas NV
The biggest deal when doing the Z51 brakes will be getting the caliper brackets off so you can pull the rotors....they are torqued on at 150ft lbs and are difficult to get off unless you have the Vette on a lift.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 76
From: Marshall, Missouri
That's true, those bolts are tight! But I had no lift, jacked up each wheel with a floor jack. But I did need a breaker bar for extra leverage on the the caliper bracket bolts. My floor jack handle is detachable and hollow; slipped it over the handle on my ratchet and got the extra leverage needed that way.
Last edited by vetteright; Mar 4, 2012 at 04:10 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 76
From: Marshall, Missouri
I haven't seen any videos. You might try doing a forum search for Z51 brake installation and turn something up that way; worth a try.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,108
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I really doubt you even need pads, let alone rotors, given your previous statements and the car's mileage. Generally speaking, car dealers charge the highest prices for repairs and the sticker shock is why you posted here.
Some forum members here will buy replacement stuff long before it's needed and some go the higher performance route regardless of need or expense. A fairly large percentage have never worked on their own cars, nor fully understand how they function. Some just prefer to pay others do the mods/repairs, whether it's a dealer or someplace else. Some offer ways to spend your money and some are both knowledgeable and helpful. Eventually you'll learn to sort out the information that fits your needs. You've taken the first step by asking questions (although the C6 Tech forum is a better place for this subject) and are prepared to dive in.
Before you do anything else, verify with a 3rd party opinion or do it yourself, that you really need replacements. Pad thickness can easily be checked by removing a wheel. New pads are about 3/8" thick and will need replaced around 1/8" thick.
If you plan on doing the work yourself, then first get the tools you need. In this case, a metric socket set, a 1/2" drive torque wrench, a minimum 2-ton low profile jack, at least one jackstand, and most likely a flat screwdriver and pliers. A shop manual and/or a Corvette buddy are also good things to have.
Assuming the rotors have never been removed from the factory, after you take off the wheel you'll need to pry/pull/destroy the two spring clips that were used to hold the rotors in place during assembly. You can throw them away as they're no longer needed. Next, unbolt the caliper and support it, so it doesn't hang by the flexible brake line. If the rotor doesn't slip off easily, you may need to tap it with a block of wood or a hard rubber hammer. The manual says to mark the location of the rotor in relationship to a wheel stud. (I never do)
Take the rotors to O'Reilly's/Autozone or a brake specialist to have them checked for proper thickness, unless you have your own deep throated micrometer with flat blade or pointed tips. If the wear is easily within the spec (stamped on the perimeter) and not gouged, you're good to go. If they're in spec, but not fairly smooth, a qualified tech who has experience re-surfacing drilled rotors (you don't want to be his first) can turn them. If they can't be cleaned up with a fair margin of safety (fronts 1.205 - rears .980) after refinish, then new rotors are required.
Replacement pads are all over the map as far as price and performance is concerned. I assume you're not tracking the car, so you can eliminate the high performance options. The auto parts store's prices are lower than GM's and the quality is comparable. Ceramics have slightly less stopping power, but considerably less dust. You'll have to make those decisions according to your personal preferences.
Other than tools, you can do front brakes for as little as $40 for pads and a can of brake cleaner. The chance of needing rear brakes at 30K miles is near zero, but check them anyway.
It'd also be a good time to paint calipers, if that's something that interests you. The proper torque for caliper bracket bolts is 129 ft. lbs. The manual states that you should discard used bolts and install new ones anytime they are removed. I've had mine off several times and still use the original bolts. You do what you feel is comfortable.
If you determine at the initial inspection, that the rotor doesn't need resurfaced or replaced, but you do need pads, then you can bypass most of the above procedures. Simply remove the upper caliper guide pin bolt and swing down the caliper. Support it so the weight is not held by the brake hose. Use a C-clamp or other device to press the piston back into its bore, then remove and replace the pads. Re-assemble and tighten the bolt to 23 ft lbs.
Do a search on the tech forum for proper brake break-in procedure.
Enjoy the process and the feeling of accomplishment.
Some forum members here will buy replacement stuff long before it's needed and some go the higher performance route regardless of need or expense. A fairly large percentage have never worked on their own cars, nor fully understand how they function. Some just prefer to pay others do the mods/repairs, whether it's a dealer or someplace else. Some offer ways to spend your money and some are both knowledgeable and helpful. Eventually you'll learn to sort out the information that fits your needs. You've taken the first step by asking questions (although the C6 Tech forum is a better place for this subject) and are prepared to dive in.
Before you do anything else, verify with a 3rd party opinion or do it yourself, that you really need replacements. Pad thickness can easily be checked by removing a wheel. New pads are about 3/8" thick and will need replaced around 1/8" thick.
If you plan on doing the work yourself, then first get the tools you need. In this case, a metric socket set, a 1/2" drive torque wrench, a minimum 2-ton low profile jack, at least one jackstand, and most likely a flat screwdriver and pliers. A shop manual and/or a Corvette buddy are also good things to have.
Assuming the rotors have never been removed from the factory, after you take off the wheel you'll need to pry/pull/destroy the two spring clips that were used to hold the rotors in place during assembly. You can throw them away as they're no longer needed. Next, unbolt the caliper and support it, so it doesn't hang by the flexible brake line. If the rotor doesn't slip off easily, you may need to tap it with a block of wood or a hard rubber hammer. The manual says to mark the location of the rotor in relationship to a wheel stud. (I never do)
Take the rotors to O'Reilly's/Autozone or a brake specialist to have them checked for proper thickness, unless you have your own deep throated micrometer with flat blade or pointed tips. If the wear is easily within the spec (stamped on the perimeter) and not gouged, you're good to go. If they're in spec, but not fairly smooth, a qualified tech who has experience re-surfacing drilled rotors (you don't want to be his first) can turn them. If they can't be cleaned up with a fair margin of safety (fronts 1.205 - rears .980) after refinish, then new rotors are required.
Replacement pads are all over the map as far as price and performance is concerned. I assume you're not tracking the car, so you can eliminate the high performance options. The auto parts store's prices are lower than GM's and the quality is comparable. Ceramics have slightly less stopping power, but considerably less dust. You'll have to make those decisions according to your personal preferences.
Other than tools, you can do front brakes for as little as $40 for pads and a can of brake cleaner. The chance of needing rear brakes at 30K miles is near zero, but check them anyway.
It'd also be a good time to paint calipers, if that's something that interests you. The proper torque for caliper bracket bolts is 129 ft. lbs. The manual states that you should discard used bolts and install new ones anytime they are removed. I've had mine off several times and still use the original bolts. You do what you feel is comfortable.
If you determine at the initial inspection, that the rotor doesn't need resurfaced or replaced, but you do need pads, then you can bypass most of the above procedures. Simply remove the upper caliper guide pin bolt and swing down the caliper. Support it so the weight is not held by the brake hose. Use a C-clamp or other device to press the piston back into its bore, then remove and replace the pads. Re-assemble and tighten the bolt to 23 ft lbs.
Do a search on the tech forum for proper brake break-in procedure.
Enjoy the process and the feeling of accomplishment.
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 76
From: Marshall, Missouri
I really doubt you even need pads, let alone rotors, given your previous statements and the car's mileage. Generally speaking, car dealers charge the highest prices for repairs and the sticker shock is why you posted here.
Some forum members here will buy replacement stuff long before it's needed and some go the higher performance route regardless of need or expense. A fairly large percentage have never worked on their own cars, nor fully understand how they function. Some just prefer to pay others do the mods/repairs, whether it's a dealer or someplace else. Some offer ways to spend your money and some are both knowledgeable and helpful. Eventually you'll learn to sort out the information that fits your needs. You've taken the first step by asking questions (although the C6 Tech forum is a better place for this subject) and are prepared to dive in.
Before you do anything else, verify with a 3rd party opinion or do it yourself, that you really need replacements. Pad thickness can easily be checked by removing a wheel. New pads are about 3/8" thick and will need replaced around 1/8" thick.
If you plan on doing the work yourself, then first get the tools you need. In this case, a metric socket set, a 1/2" drive torque wrench, a minimum 2-ton low profile jack, at least one jackstand, and most likely a flat screwdriver and pliers. A shop manual and/or a Corvette buddy are also good things to have.
Assuming the rotors have never been removed from the factory, after you take off the wheel you'll need to pry/pull/destroy the two spring clips that were used to hold the rotors in place during assembly. You can throw them away as they're no longer needed. Next, unbolt the caliper and support it, so it doesn't hang by the flexible brake line. If the rotor doesn't slip off easily, you may need to tap it with a block of wood or a hard rubber hammer. The manual says to mark the location of the rotor in relationship to a wheel stud. (I never do)
Take the rotors to O'Reilly's/Autozone or a brake specialist to have them checked for proper thickness, unless you have your own deep throated micrometer with flat blade or pointed tips. If the wear is easily within the spec (stamped on the perimeter) and not gouged, you're good to go. If they're in spec, but not fairly smooth, a qualified tech who has experience re-surfacing drilled rotors (you don't want to be his first) can turn them. If they can't be cleaned up with a fair margin of safety (fronts 1.205 - rears .980) after refinish, then new rotors are required.
Replacement pads are all over the map as far as price and performance is concerned. I assume you're not tracking the car, so you can eliminate the high performance options. The auto parts store's prices are lower than GM's and the quality is comparable. Ceramics have slightly less stopping power, but considerably less dust. You'll have to make those decisions according to your personal preferences.
Other than tools, you can do front brakes for as little as $40 for pads and a can of brake cleaner. The chance of needing rear brakes at 30K miles is near zero, but check them anyway.
It'd also be a good time to paint calipers, if that's something that interests you. The proper torque for caliper bracket bolts is 129 ft. lbs. The manual states that you should discard used bolts and install new ones anytime they are removed. I've had mine off several times and still use the original bolts. You do what you feel is comfortable.
If you determine at the initial inspection, that the rotor doesn't need resurfaced or replaced, but you do need pads, then you can bypass most of the above procedures. Simply remove the upper caliper guide pin bolt and swing down the caliper. Support it so the weight is not held by the brake hose. Use a C-clamp or other device to press the piston back into its bore, then remove and replace the pads. Re-assemble and tighten the bolt to 23 ft lbs.
Do a search on the tech forum for proper brake break-in procedure.
Enjoy the process and the feeling of accomplishment.
Some forum members here will buy replacement stuff long before it's needed and some go the higher performance route regardless of need or expense. A fairly large percentage have never worked on their own cars, nor fully understand how they function. Some just prefer to pay others do the mods/repairs, whether it's a dealer or someplace else. Some offer ways to spend your money and some are both knowledgeable and helpful. Eventually you'll learn to sort out the information that fits your needs. You've taken the first step by asking questions (although the C6 Tech forum is a better place for this subject) and are prepared to dive in.
Before you do anything else, verify with a 3rd party opinion or do it yourself, that you really need replacements. Pad thickness can easily be checked by removing a wheel. New pads are about 3/8" thick and will need replaced around 1/8" thick.
If you plan on doing the work yourself, then first get the tools you need. In this case, a metric socket set, a 1/2" drive torque wrench, a minimum 2-ton low profile jack, at least one jackstand, and most likely a flat screwdriver and pliers. A shop manual and/or a Corvette buddy are also good things to have.
Assuming the rotors have never been removed from the factory, after you take off the wheel you'll need to pry/pull/destroy the two spring clips that were used to hold the rotors in place during assembly. You can throw them away as they're no longer needed. Next, unbolt the caliper and support it, so it doesn't hang by the flexible brake line. If the rotor doesn't slip off easily, you may need to tap it with a block of wood or a hard rubber hammer. The manual says to mark the location of the rotor in relationship to a wheel stud. (I never do)
Take the rotors to O'Reilly's/Autozone or a brake specialist to have them checked for proper thickness, unless you have your own deep throated micrometer with flat blade or pointed tips. If the wear is easily within the spec (stamped on the perimeter) and not gouged, you're good to go. If they're in spec, but not fairly smooth, a qualified tech who has experience re-surfacing drilled rotors (you don't want to be his first) can turn them. If they can't be cleaned up with a fair margin of safety (fronts 1.205 - rears .980) after refinish, then new rotors are required.
Replacement pads are all over the map as far as price and performance is concerned. I assume you're not tracking the car, so you can eliminate the high performance options. The auto parts store's prices are lower than GM's and the quality is comparable. Ceramics have slightly less stopping power, but considerably less dust. You'll have to make those decisions according to your personal preferences.
Other than tools, you can do front brakes for as little as $40 for pads and a can of brake cleaner. The chance of needing rear brakes at 30K miles is near zero, but check them anyway.
It'd also be a good time to paint calipers, if that's something that interests you. The proper torque for caliper bracket bolts is 129 ft. lbs. The manual states that you should discard used bolts and install new ones anytime they are removed. I've had mine off several times and still use the original bolts. You do what you feel is comfortable.
If you determine at the initial inspection, that the rotor doesn't need resurfaced or replaced, but you do need pads, then you can bypass most of the above procedures. Simply remove the upper caliper guide pin bolt and swing down the caliper. Support it so the weight is not held by the brake hose. Use a C-clamp or other device to press the piston back into its bore, then remove and replace the pads. Re-assemble and tighten the bolt to 23 ft lbs.
Do a search on the tech forum for proper brake break-in procedure.
Enjoy the process and the feeling of accomplishment.
Excellent write up.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
I really doubt you even need pads, let alone rotors, given your previous statements and the car's mileage. Generally speaking, car dealers charge the highest prices for repairs and the sticker shock is why you posted here.
Some forum members here will buy replacement stuff long before it's needed and some go the higher performance route regardless of need or expense. A fairly large percentage have never worked on their own cars, nor fully understand how they function. Some just prefer to pay others do the mods/repairs, whether it's a dealer or someplace else. Some offer ways to spend your money and some are both knowledgeable and helpful. Eventually you'll learn to sort out the information that fits your needs. You've taken the first step by asking questions (although the C6 Tech forum is a better place for this subject) and are prepared to dive in.
Before you do anything else, verify with a 3rd party opinion or do it yourself, that you really need replacements. Pad thickness can easily be checked by removing a wheel. New pads are about 3/8" thick and will need replaced around 1/8" thick.
If you plan on doing the work yourself, then first get the tools you need. In this case, a metric socket set, a 1/2" drive torque wrench, a minimum 2-ton low profile jack, at least one jackstand, and most likely a flat screwdriver and pliers. A shop manual and/or a Corvette buddy are also good things to have.
Assuming the rotors have never been removed from the factory, after you take off the wheel you'll need to pry/pull/destroy the two spring clips that were used to hold the rotors in place during assembly. You can throw them away as they're no longer needed. Next, unbolt the caliper and support it, so it doesn't hang by the flexible brake line. If the rotor doesn't slip off easily, you may need to tap it with a block of wood or a hard rubber hammer. The manual says to mark the location of the rotor in relationship to a wheel stud. (I never do)
Take the rotors to O'Reilly's/Autozone or a brake specialist to have them checked for proper thickness, unless you have your own deep throated micrometer with flat blade or pointed tips. If the wear is easily within the spec (stamped on the perimeter) and not gouged, you're good to go. If they're in spec, but not fairly smooth, a qualified tech who has experience re-surfacing drilled rotors (you don't want to be his first) can turn them. If they can't be cleaned up with a fair margin of safety (fronts 1.205 - rears .980) after refinish, then new rotors are required.
Replacement pads are all over the map as far as price and performance is concerned. I assume you're not tracking the car, so you can eliminate the high performance options. The auto parts store's prices are lower than GM's and the quality is comparable. Ceramics have slightly less stopping power, but considerably less dust. You'll have to make those decisions according to your personal preferences.
Other than tools, you can do front brakes for as little as $40 for pads and a can of brake cleaner. The chance of needing rear brakes at 30K miles is near zero, but check them anyway.
It'd also be a good time to paint calipers, if that's something that interests you. The proper torque for caliper bracket bolts is 129 ft. lbs. The manual states that you should discard used bolts and install new ones anytime they are removed. I've had mine off several times and still use the original bolts. You do what you feel is comfortable.
If you determine at the initial inspection, that the rotor doesn't need resurfaced or replaced, but you do need pads, then you can bypass most of the above procedures. Simply remove the upper caliper guide pin bolt and swing down the caliper. Support it so the weight is not held by the brake hose. Use a C-clamp or other device to press the piston back into its bore, then remove and replace the pads. Re-assemble and tighten the bolt to 23 ft lbs.
Do a search on the tech forum for proper brake break-in procedure.
Enjoy the process and the feeling of accomplishment.
Some forum members here will buy replacement stuff long before it's needed and some go the higher performance route regardless of need or expense. A fairly large percentage have never worked on their own cars, nor fully understand how they function. Some just prefer to pay others do the mods/repairs, whether it's a dealer or someplace else. Some offer ways to spend your money and some are both knowledgeable and helpful. Eventually you'll learn to sort out the information that fits your needs. You've taken the first step by asking questions (although the C6 Tech forum is a better place for this subject) and are prepared to dive in.
Before you do anything else, verify with a 3rd party opinion or do it yourself, that you really need replacements. Pad thickness can easily be checked by removing a wheel. New pads are about 3/8" thick and will need replaced around 1/8" thick.
If you plan on doing the work yourself, then first get the tools you need. In this case, a metric socket set, a 1/2" drive torque wrench, a minimum 2-ton low profile jack, at least one jackstand, and most likely a flat screwdriver and pliers. A shop manual and/or a Corvette buddy are also good things to have.
Assuming the rotors have never been removed from the factory, after you take off the wheel you'll need to pry/pull/destroy the two spring clips that were used to hold the rotors in place during assembly. You can throw them away as they're no longer needed. Next, unbolt the caliper and support it, so it doesn't hang by the flexible brake line. If the rotor doesn't slip off easily, you may need to tap it with a block of wood or a hard rubber hammer. The manual says to mark the location of the rotor in relationship to a wheel stud. (I never do)
Take the rotors to O'Reilly's/Autozone or a brake specialist to have them checked for proper thickness, unless you have your own deep throated micrometer with flat blade or pointed tips. If the wear is easily within the spec (stamped on the perimeter) and not gouged, you're good to go. If they're in spec, but not fairly smooth, a qualified tech who has experience re-surfacing drilled rotors (you don't want to be his first) can turn them. If they can't be cleaned up with a fair margin of safety (fronts 1.205 - rears .980) after refinish, then new rotors are required.
Replacement pads are all over the map as far as price and performance is concerned. I assume you're not tracking the car, so you can eliminate the high performance options. The auto parts store's prices are lower than GM's and the quality is comparable. Ceramics have slightly less stopping power, but considerably less dust. You'll have to make those decisions according to your personal preferences.
Other than tools, you can do front brakes for as little as $40 for pads and a can of brake cleaner. The chance of needing rear brakes at 30K miles is near zero, but check them anyway.
It'd also be a good time to paint calipers, if that's something that interests you. The proper torque for caliper bracket bolts is 129 ft. lbs. The manual states that you should discard used bolts and install new ones anytime they are removed. I've had mine off several times and still use the original bolts. You do what you feel is comfortable.
If you determine at the initial inspection, that the rotor doesn't need resurfaced or replaced, but you do need pads, then you can bypass most of the above procedures. Simply remove the upper caliper guide pin bolt and swing down the caliper. Support it so the weight is not held by the brake hose. Use a C-clamp or other device to press the piston back into its bore, then remove and replace the pads. Re-assemble and tighten the bolt to 23 ft lbs.
Do a search on the tech forum for proper brake break-in procedure.
Enjoy the process and the feeling of accomplishment.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 76
From: Marshall, Missouri
I just saw a post here where Kevin Cassimore at PartsTaxi (forum vendor) is running a special on the Z51 rotors and pads this month. He is selling all 4 GM Z51 rotors and both sets (front & rear) of ACDelco ceramic pads for $452.95 plus shipping (about $45.00).
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
From: Brick NJ
50k miles. i just changed them. i dont have the rotors cut anymore. i just buy mew ones. plus they were all rusted and ugly. new ones are coated in hi temp coating to prevent rust.