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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 09:28 AM
  #1  
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Default Brakes pulse

My brakes are pulsing when applied (not bad) worse the faster you go. They have not been wet, tracked or beaten.. not sure if it is one rotor or both.. Very annoying.....

2008 Vert. with Z51 option, orig. pads 5K miles..

Others have this issue? Really don't want to spend
big bucks , just want to fix...... Suggestions?

THX-
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:28 AM
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Brake pulse is usually from warped rotors. Could be that your wheels were not torqued to the correct 100 ft/lbs spec. A good brake shop can put a mic on the rotors and figure out which one(s) are out of spec. I would NOT recommend turning them. I would replace the defective one.

Of course this is a good opportunity to upgrade. I put on 4 DBA rotors and they are really nice compared to the stockers. But it would be a LOT cheaper to just replace the one that has the problem.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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it could also be "pad dirt" imprints...on cars that are not driven often the pads will seat horizintal "dirt" lines in the rotors...they look almost like smudges...lite sand/emry cloth them to remove the smudges this should correct it...if not it, could be warped as previously mentioned...Good luck! P.S. I got over 100k on my front pads and rotors before I upgrades to oversized brakes...they were still good when removed...rears had to be changed @ 81K!

Last edited by 9157; Sep 27, 2012 at 10:40 AM.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 11:14 AM
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My fronts starting pulsing at 13000 miles. Sanded pads and turned the rotors . Like new.
Be sure the shop that turns the rotors , understands they need to be perfectly parallel and square to the centerline. Tool set up sometimes needs to be changed for drilled rotors. Just talk to the operator and see if is aware.
Mostly owners that had poor turning performed or their friend had a problem ; say not to turn rotors.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 9157
it could also be "pad dirt" imprints...on cars that are not driven often the pads will seat horizintal "dirt" lines in the rotors...they look almost like smudges...lite sand/emry cloth them to remove the smudges this should correct it...if not it, could be warped as previously mentioned...Good luck! P.S. I got over 100k on my front pads and rotors before I upgrades to oversized brakes...they were still good when removed...rears had to be changed @ 81K!
I had a similar experience. Changed pads & rotors at 50k miles, a bit earlier than needed. The rear pads had 1.5 mm less than the fronts.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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Drlled rotors usually wont be turned. New rotors aren't that expensive anyway and is probably the best way to go. I think I would try seating the pads first to see if that helps. Do about 8 or 10 hard stops from 60mph to about 20mph without fully stopping and then keep driving for about 15 minutes to let the rotors cool (they will be very hot). This might get rid of dirt ridges etc if that's the problem. I would also loosen and retorque all your lug bolts fefore trying to reseat the pads to make sure you dont have uneven torque thats tring to warp the rotors.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 07:45 PM
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08/5K I doubt the wheels have ever been off the car! Can't blame the Goon with the air gun. Sounds like a defective rotor from the factory. Inspect them closely, you may be able to see the defect in the surface finish in that rotor.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 08:06 PM
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I had my rotors turned last year. Yeah they say you "can't" turn drilled rotors, but it's just not true. The issue is that the bit can grab onto one of the drilled holes while turning it which will pretty much destroy the rotor. I had mine done at the local NTB, carried the rotors in and whatched the guy do it. They gave me the disclaimer and I gave them Murphy's third law: "If it doesn't fit force it, if it breaks it needed replacing anyway."
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 08:18 PM
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Rotors don't warp. They don't turn into the shape of potato chips. What does happen is the pad material is transferred unevenly on to the rotor. This creates hills and valleys. The pad is trying to stay flat on the rotor but is prevented by these hills and valleys. This is the vibrations you feel on the pedal and the steering wheel.
When you say pulsations do you mean a vibration on the pedal and or steering wheel or the vehicle doesn't seem to slow down in a even moment. It instead wants to surge.
Just asking, some interpret pulsations differently.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CTHEUSA08
My brakes are pulsing when applied (not bad) worse the faster you go. They have not been wet, tracked or beaten.. not sure if it is one rotor or both.. Very annoying.....

2008 Vert. with Z51 option, orig. pads 5K miles..

Others have this issue? Really don't want to spend
big bucks , just want to fix...... Suggestions?

THX-
if you only have 5k then that might be the problem, sometimes sitting around will cause slight pulsation - take it for a good spin and use the brakes a bit. mine are at 50k with no pulsation.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BC427
Rotors don't warp. They don't turn into the shape of potato chips. What does happen is the pad material is transferred unevenly on to the rotor. This creates hills and valleys. The pad is trying to stay flat on the rotor but is prevented by these hills and valleys. This is the vibrations you feel on the pedal and the steering wheel.
When you say pulsations do you mean a vibration on the pedal and or steering wheel or the vehicle doesn't seem to slow down in a even moment. It instead wants to surge.
Just asking, some interpret pulsations differently.
It's not pad material that gets unevenly distributed, but uneven wear of the rotor surface. The "softer" part of rotor wears faster the "harder" part. It's not hills and valleys, but one part of the rotor (both front and back) wears faster causing the faces of the rotor to no longer be parallel. A thousanth of an inch difference will cause pulsation in the brake pedal.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 08:41 PM
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If rotors cool wrong they will have a pulse feel. People who live close to a feeway will have this more. Try riding the pedal for a short distance to heat up the rotor. Then stay off the brakes for a while, to let the rotor cool. The next time you use the brakes, see if it is normal again.
When you park in the driveway with very hot rotors, The caliper causes one spot on the rotor to cool slower than the rest of the rotor.
I am not sure if it causes a different temper that creates a different co-efficient of friction or if is actually makes a difference in rotor thickness. But we discovered this when I worked in the dealership, years ago.
Good luck.
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