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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:55 AM
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So I was considering using the Rejex product for the first time this weekend. I have a few questions for those familiar with it.

First - Up until now I would clay-bar and use Mothers Carnauba Wax on it about three times per year. It is getting ready for me to do that again. Do I need to clay-bar before applying the Rejex?

Second - Do you just use Rejex alone or can you use it in combination with a Carnauba Wax?

Third - If you can use it with a Carnauba Wax, is it better to put the wax on top or below the Rejex.

Any other advice would be welcome.

My objectives are to A. obviously have the car look nice and glossy (wet), B. protect it from bird crap, tree sap, etc... since it is my daily driver and sits out all day while I am at work.

Last edited by jdk541; Jan 19, 2013 at 09:19 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 09:09 AM
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1st: For the best final finish always depends on the prep the paint surface so yes clay bar is a good choice.

2nd: No point is using a wax in conjunction with Rejex.

I found that multiple layers of Rejex make for a incredible shine (deep and bright). I put on the Rejex (use sparingly...if you find it is difficult to remove then you are using too much) and let it 'cure' ~24 hrs. Remove and repeat process a second time (and a third if you want).

Many a time I was asked if my LMB car was a custom paint job... best compliment ever and my hats off to Rejex

Can dress up finish with a good detailer

Last edited by C6FirstVette; Jan 19, 2013 at 05:41 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 09:10 AM
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Exactly. However if you wish to use it with a good wax, the wax would go on top of the Rejex.
Originally Posted by C6FirstVette
1st: For the best final finish always depends on the prep the paint surface so yes clay bar is a good choice.

2nd: No point is using a wax in conjunction with Rejex.

I found that multiple layers of Rejex make for a incredible shine (deep and bright). I put on the Rejex (use sparingly...if you find it is difficult to remove then you are using too much) and let it 'cure' ~24 hrs. Remove and repeat process a second time (and a third if you want).

Last edited by dvilin; Jan 19, 2013 at 09:30 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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you might want to check out the car care section, but I thought you should do a wash with blue Dawn to get rid of all the carnuba wax first, then clay, then wash again.
(not to mention any restorative actions, which you would want to do after the first wash)
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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1) Wash with Dawn, rinse
2) Claybar with Dawn (as the lube), rinse & dry
3) Apply ReJex
4) Next month, apply ReJex again
5) After 3 months, apply ReJex again ... repeat #5.

I have six coats on now after 1.5 years, may reapply from scratch in June ...
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 11:18 AM
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Polish before you seal.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by C6FirstVette
1st: For the best final finish always depends on the prep the paint surface so yes clay bar is a good choice.

2nd: No point is using a wax in conjunction with Rejex.

I found that multiple layers of Rejex make for a incredible shine (deep and bright). I put on the Rejex (use sparingly...if you find it is difficult to remove then you are using too much) and let it 'cure' ~24 hrs. Remove and repeat process a second time (and a third if you want).

Many a time I was ask if my LMB car was a custom paint job... best compliment ever and my hats off to Rejexs
Per the instructions on the product you do not need to let it 'cure' prior to removing it. Let it dry to a haze (10-15 min), remove, and then let it cure for 8-12 hours out of the sunlight.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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Rejex works great and thinner is the key to easy of removing
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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W're very happy with Rejex, I don't use any wax on top because I'd need to remove the wax before the next coat of Rejex.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by C-INRED
Per the instructions on the product you do not need to let it 'cure' prior to removing it. Let it dry to a haze (10-15 min), remove, and then let it cure for 8-12 hours out of the sunlight.
Correct, BUT I found after 7 years of using Rejex that letting it cure or sit for a longer time than manufacturer suggests does create a better finish. Remember, the manufacturer has to play to the 'instant gratification' mantra of today
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 06:04 PM
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Drive don't wax!
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:03 PM
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I bought my car new in 2008 and picked it up at the museum. It's got over 40,000 miles and the paint is flawless. I've NEVER had to polish or clay the paint. It is a garage kept car, but I've driven it in lots of rain over those miles. I think Rejex is the best out there for preserving your car's finish. Protect it with Rejex and you shouldn't have to clay your car ever again. PS, it's excellent for your exhaust tips too...all ya have to do is wipe 'em off when you want them to sparkle like chrome.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SSTEVEGS
I bought my car new in 2008 and picked it up at the museum. It's got over 40,000 miles and the paint is flawless. I've NEVER had to polish or clay the paint. It is a garage kept car, but I've driven it in lots of rain over those miles. I think Rejex is the best out there for preserving your car's finish. Protect it with Rejex and you shouldn't have to clay your car ever again. PS, it's excellent for your exhaust tips too...all ya have to do is wipe 'em off when you want them to sparkle like chrome.
Ditto on the exhaust tips, and they offer great protection for my (Black) painted wheels also... Brake dust/ road grime come off without harsh chemicles/ scrubbing.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 10:32 PM
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Rejex is a paint sealant (synthetic wax) and best used on a clean and well prepped surface. You can use a paint cleansing lotion, clay, polishing and such to remove all the old products and prep the surface before application. Once applied follow the manufacturers suggestion for curing and you'll have months and months of great protection. You can certainly try a wax or spray over it as desired, but most will suggest leaving it alone. Wash and dry properly and you should have a great finish for months even in 24/7 weather.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 10:58 PM
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I've also found that leaving it overnight before removing it lets it last longer. I'm lazy as all heck, and if I apply it and remove it within 30 minutes, it lasts maybe 3 months. If I apply it and leave it overnight, it'll easily go twice as long.

Outside of rock dings, my paint looks like the day it rolled off the factory two years ago, and barely has any of the fine scratches that you can see when a light is reflected on the surface.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 11:35 PM
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Lot of good info already posted here , I use Rejex too and love it . I use pinnacle pure carnuba on top of rejex for even more depth . If your gonna use carnuba on top , make sure its pure carnuba , some waxes have solvents in them that will reduce the rejex durability .. but over all rejex is an awesome product .. key is letting it cure and set up out of the elements as mentjoned before . Last good prep is always key too .. I would Clay bar and dawn wash first to make sure you have clean surface to start with for the rejex to bond too .
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Killrwheels@Autogeek
Rejex is a paint sealant (synthetic wax) and best used on a clean and well prepped surface. You can use a paint cleansing lotion, clay, polishing and such to remove all the old products and prep the surface before application. Once applied follow the manufacturers suggestion for curing and you'll have months and months of great protection. You can certainly try a wax or spray over it as desired, but most will suggest leaving it alone. Wash and dry properly and you should have a great finish for months even in 24/7 weather.
How does Rejex compare to wolfgang 3.0? I have both.
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by speedraider
How does Rejex compare to wolfgang 3.0? I have both.
both are paint sealants ... I personally feel Wolfgang offers more of a warm wax look initially, but Rejex lasts longer. Really comes down to personal choice IMO.

My favorite sealant is Four Star UPP. Its super slick, super glossy, lasts a long time, and super easy to apply and remove. Its a hidden gem ...
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jdk541
So I was considering using the Rejex product for the first time this weekend. I have a few questions for those familiar with it.

First - Up until now I would clay-bar and use Mothers Carnauba Wax on it about three times per year. It is getting ready for me to do that again. Do I need to clay-bar before applying the Rejex?

Second - Do you just use Rejex alone or can you use it in combination with a Carnauba Wax?

Third - If you can use it with a Carnauba Wax, is it better to put the wax on top or below the Rejex.

Any other advice would be welcome.

My objectives are to A. obviously have the car look nice and glossy (wet), B. protect it from bird crap, tree sap, etc... since it is my daily driver and sits out all day while I am at work.
You want to put the Rejex on a clean surface/paint so it will bond/seal correctly.
If you put it over a wax, it only lasts as long as the wax, which isn't going to be as long.
I use Rejex and for the 1st year didn't use anything else.
One thing about Rejex though is it gives the paint such a shine, it's like a glass coating and some have mentioned a plastic look.
It's so shiny it reflects light, in turn hiding the color of the paint.
Not a complaint, just some info

I started using 303 Speed Detailer on top of the Rejex and it really let the color show through and gave it a richer deeper look.
It's also one of the reasons some will use their favorite wax over the Rejex, to tone the shine/glare down.
It's personal preference, but either way, the Rejex should go on first.
Just my 2 cents from my experience
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by speedraider
Polish before you seal.
Me too
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