Lowering Issue
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 212
Likes: 2
From: Rochester NY
I had the same issue with my GS. The front left was over a 1/2" lower than the front right after I cranked them all the way down. I ended up turning the front left back a few turns to raise it to match. I am happy with the front height but the back is still way to high for my taste. I guess coil overs are the only way to do it unless you want to use aftermarket loweing bolts but I have read to many bad things about them.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11,353
Likes: 2,445
From: Eastern
You guys are funny....its not like its some sort of elaborate process. Lower and go....and corner balance on what I assume the OP has a fully street car...come on. BTW..you do not throw the alignment off that much when lowering on stock bolts, and if alignment was off..it was probably messed up from the start.
When I lowered mine, I tried the best I could to keep the measurement equal from side to side, both front and back, but it was really difficult. I got it as close as possible, and after the car was driven for awhile, it settled even lower than my original measurements.I found that if one side of the back was higher than the other side, it was by slightly raising the opposite front that actually lowered the opposite back.
BTW, after lowering to the max on OEM lowering bolts, I did not require an alignment. I took a 4500 mile trip shortly after I lowered the car, and the tires wore evenly.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,421
Likes: 20
From: Indiana
I had the same issue with my GS. The front left was over a 1/2" lower than the front right after I cranked them all the way down. I ended up turning the front left back a few turns to raise it to match. I am happy with the front height but the back is still way to high for my taste. I guess coil overs are the only way to do it unless you want to use aftermarket loweing bolts but I have read to many bad things about them.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,421
Likes: 20
From: Indiana
When I lowered mine, I tried the best I could to keep the measurement equal from side to side, both front and back, but it was really difficult. I got it as close as possible, and after the car was driven for awhile, it settled even lower than my original measurements.I found that if one side of the back was higher than the other side, it was by slightly raising the opposite front that actually lowered the opposite back.
BTW, after lowering to the max on OEM lowering bolts, I did not require an alignment. I took a 4500 mile trip shortly after I lowered the car, and the tires wore evenly.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 465
From: Southern Utah
It's very difficult to measure the car height in the same way as the factory spec is expressed, but using the end of a body panel that is far away from the suspension will exaggerate any error. While not perfect, using the fender height at the wheel center is better. Check there and use that height to adjust.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,421
Likes: 20
From: Indiana
It's very difficult to measure the car height in the same way as the factory spec is expressed, but using the end of a body panel that is far away from the suspension will exaggerate any error. While not perfect, using the fender height at the wheel center is better. Check there and use that height to adjust.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 897
Likes: 1
From: Charlotte NC
Some people think their car is hand built and every little detail is measured and exact... this car is far from it, sometimes I feel like rednecks in TN built this thing in their garage with the amount of noises the interior makes
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,421
Likes: 20
From: Indiana
Yup. Some creak and groan, some don't, some tick, some don't, some have perfect alignments, some don't, the list goes on.
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 66
From: San Luis Obispo, California
JLB, I think the primary thing is to drive it at least 100+ miles so that the rubber ride height-bolt pads fully settle/shimmy onto the LCA's.
On my '12 GS I screwed each corner in @ 2 full turns & marked them beforehand w/ white touch up paint. I had the alignment checked; Front camber @ -.8*, .0* toe, Rear camber -.5*, *.0 toe, no caster change.
I then screwed all 4 bolts in to their max, cut 1/8" off the rear bushings, & the height/leveling is perfect now, then had the alignment checked; Front -.12* camber, 0* toe, Rear -.9* camber, 0* toe, micro caster change, but I'll get it corner weighted/checked after I install new Michelins & before my next hpde.
FYI, many alignment shops offer free alignment checks too.
On my '12 GS I screwed each corner in @ 2 full turns & marked them beforehand w/ white touch up paint. I had the alignment checked; Front camber @ -.8*, .0* toe, Rear camber -.5*, *.0 toe, no caster change.
I then screwed all 4 bolts in to their max, cut 1/8" off the rear bushings, & the height/leveling is perfect now, then had the alignment checked; Front -.12* camber, 0* toe, Rear -.9* camber, 0* toe, micro caster change, but I'll get it corner weighted/checked after I install new Michelins & before my next hpde.
FYI, many alignment shops offer free alignment checks too.
Last edited by Bedouin; Jan 30, 2013 at 01:31 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,421
Likes: 20
From: Indiana
JLB, I think the primary thing is to drive it at least 100+ miles so that the rubber ride height-bolt pads fully settle/shimmy onto the LCA's.
On my '12 GS I screwed each corner in @ 2 full turns & marked them beforehand w/ white touch up paint. I had the alignment checked; Front camber @ -.8*, .0* toe, Rear camber -.5*, *.0 toe, no caster change.
I then screwed all 4 bolts in to their max, cut 1/8" off the rear bushings, & the height/leveling is perfect now, then had the alignment checked; Front -.12* camber, 0* toe, Rear -.9* camber, 0* toe, micro caster change, but I'll get it corner weighted/checked after I install new Michelins & before my next hpde.
FYI, many alignment shops offer free alignment checks too.
On my '12 GS I screwed each corner in @ 2 full turns & marked them beforehand w/ white touch up paint. I had the alignment checked; Front camber @ -.8*, .0* toe, Rear camber -.5*, *.0 toe, no caster change.
I then screwed all 4 bolts in to their max, cut 1/8" off the rear bushings, & the height/leveling is perfect now, then had the alignment checked; Front -.12* camber, 0* toe, Rear -.9* camber, 0* toe, micro caster change, but I'll get it corner weighted/checked after I install new Michelins & before my next hpde.
FYI, many alignment shops offer free alignment checks too.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 226
Likes: 30
From: Imperial, Mo. USA Mo
The simple answer is not all body panels are even and level from the factory. Since you are doing this solely for the appearance, after you allow the car to settle, just adjust the bolts to make everything level. On my C5, if you measure from the frame rails, everything is even, from some body panels, they are not.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,421
Likes: 20
From: Indiana
The simple answer is not all body panels are even and level from the factory. Since you are doing this solely for the appearance, after you allow the car to settle, just adjust the bolts to make everything level. On my C5, if you measure from the frame rails, everything is even, from some body panels, they are not.