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I have the video on lowering a C6, and in that video he says to crank both the front and rear bolts in the counterclockwise direction. My rear bolts will not turn in the counterclockwise direction, but they will in the clockwise. The rear bolts show all of the threads.The front bolts I was able to turn them in the counterclockwise direction, but there was a lot of threads showing on those also, but I got maybe three -four full turns on those.
So if that is the correct procedure I will assume that the rear has been lower to the max on the stock bolts and prior to my adjusting the front they were lower, but not to the max.
Does this sound right? Here are a few shots of the car as it sat prior to be adjusting the front bolts.
Wish I could answer your question, but gotta say your car looks great !!!! so you have zo6/ GS rear end and base c6 front ? and are those z51 emblems?
Yes it is a 2007 3LT. I have only had it since July of last year. I was lucky enough to find it on a used car lot (I know the owner) that deals in high end cars. It came the way you see it. I have dressed the engine bay up with a little carbon fiber and painted pieces.
Yes that is a Z51 badge and my intent was to remove it as soon as I got the car home, but never got around to it. I he=ave meet a lot of Z06 owners and talked with them, and none ever said that I need to remove them. After all they said it does have the Z51 option. Seems like it is only on the forum do you here members rag on them.
I have the video on lowering a C6, and in that video he says to crank both the front and rear bolts in the counterclockwise direction. My rear bolts will not turn in the counterclockwise direction, but they will in the clockwise. The rear bolts show all of the threads....
???? ????
Threads, CW/CCW???
The bolts screw into the leafspring from the bottom. If the bolt is screwed in all the way with the head of the bolt tight against the leafspring, then you're as low as you can go unless you cut the bushings or go with an aftermarket bolt.
You can see above that the bushing rests on the web of the lower A-arm. If you're talking about seeing threads, the only thing that matters is the amount of threads BELOW the spring. If there aren't any (i.e., the bolt is screwed all the way up against the spring), then you won't be able to turn the bolt any more because you're already as low as you can go.
Here's a picture posted several years ago of a guy cutting the bushing on a stock bolt. If your bolt head is already up against the spring and you want to go lower, you're going to have to cut the bushing:
I actually like the emblem, like you were told, it is a z51 why not let it be known. I just recently found how to see what options the car has, and ours is a z51 also and I've been thinking about putting the emblems on ours. I see your in Sebring, this will be our first time at the 12 hours and really looking forward to the race. ( my valintines present from my wife).
Last edited by 08velocity; Feb 26, 2013 at 10:42 AM.
I've got a Z06, and your emblem doesn't bother me - it tells me what you've got, and there's nothing wrong with that at all.
08velocity, you need to drive down to Sebring on March 29-30. The National Corvette Museum will have their High Performance Driving Event taking place on those 2 days. There's no cost to come on in and watch the action and talk with a lot of Forum members who are attending.
Better yet, if you have a coupe you should sign up to drive the event!! Here's a link to info about it:
I actually like the emblem, like you were told, it is a z51 why not let it be known. I just recently found how to see what options the car has, and ours is a z51 also and I've been thinking about putting the emblems on ours. I see your in Sebring, this will be our first time at the 12 hours and really looking forward to the race. ( my valintines present from my wife).
You will enjoy Sebring. Actual I am about 2 hours north in Pinellas County. Are you just going for the race, or did you get teh Corvette Corral tickets. We were in the Corral last year. got there early on Friday and stay just north of Sebring. The Corral is nice, you have a tent to sit in to get out of the sun and there is close circuit TV showing the race, so you don't miss anything. The serve lunch and have coffee, juice, fruit and pastry in the morning. Of course you will pay for this.
Originally Posted by BEZ06
I like your Z51 emblem!!
I've got a Z06, and your emblem doesn't bother me - it tells me what you've got, and there's nothing wrong with that at all.
08velocity, you need to drive down to Sebring on March 29-30. The National Corvette Museum will have their High Performance Driving Event taking place on those 2 days. There's no cost to come on in and watch the action and talk with a lot of Forum members who are attending.
Better yet, if you have a coupe you should sign up to drive the event!! Here's a link to info about it:
The bolts screw into the leafspring from the bottom. If the bolt is screwed in all the way with the head of the bolt tight against the leafspring, then you're as low as you can go unless you cut the bushings or go with an aftermarket bolt.
You can see above that the bushing rests on the web of the lower A-arm. If you're talking about seeing threads, the only thing that matters is the amount of threads BELOW the spring. If there aren't any (i.e., the bolt is screwed all the way up against the spring), then you won't be able to turn the bolt any more because you're already as low as you can go.
Here's a picture posted several years ago of a guy cutting the bushing on a stock bolt. If your bolt head is already up against the spring and you want to go lower, you're going to have to cut the bushing:
Bob
Thanks again. Not sure I want to cut the bushing. Like I said the rear bolts were adjusted to the max, but the fronts had a little more to go, so I did adjust them down all the way.
Are you going to the 12 hour race or just the following week for the NCM track days?
I won't be there for the race - just the NCM event.
We've got Bike Week going on here in Daytona at the same time as the 12 hour race, and I've got several friends that will be here staying with us - so we'll be doing Bike Week stuff!
I have been fighting this too. Front Drivers bolt is frozen won't turn either way (still showing plenty of thread on top and bottom) let is soak over night with pb blaster. Rear drivers side only showing about 1/4 inch to turn With plenty to cut. I would rather just remove the leaf springs and get the bad boys on my work bench. any thoughts.
I have been fighting this too. Front Drivers bolt is frozen won't turn either way (still showing plenty of thread on top and bottom) let is soak over night with pb blaster. Rear drivers side only showing about 1/4 inch to turn With plenty to cut. I would rather just remove the leaf springs and get the bad boys on my work bench. any thoughts.
Yes Im using 2 jacks. So I can see there is no pressure on the bolt. are you just using a small 10 mm wrench? I can't get a socket on it without removing the shock.
Yes Im using 2 jacks. So I can see there is no pressure on the bolt. are you just using a small 10 mm wrench? I can't get a socket on it without removing the shock.
Yes I have a combo box & open end. As I said mine all turned easy. Of course the rear was already adjusted to its max, it was the fronts that I had to adjust a little more. But they all turned freely. I realized that when I tried to turn the rears counter clockwise that they would not move, but they were free to the clockwise direction. That is when I started to wonder it the rear was not already lowered.
I am wondering now if I want to cut the bushings or leave it as it is.
I have been fighting this too. Front Drivers bolt is frozen won't turn either way (still showing plenty of thread on top and bottom) let is soak over night with pb blaster. Rear drivers side only showing about 1/4 inch to turn With plenty to cut. I would rather just remove the leaf springs and get the bad boys on my work bench. any thoughts.
Some people has been successful by applying heat to the bolt. Don't over do it, you don't want to ruin the spring or the rubber bushing on the bolt.