I spoke with a rep at Rejex today about preparing a car for its first Rejex application after having applied another product just two weeks before. FWIW, he said to give the car a thorough Dawn wash, apply Rejex, then after six months give another Dawn wash and reapply Rejex.

While on the phone I asked him about the best way to apply Rejex, by hand or orbital buffer. He said either was fine but if you remove the dried Rejex with the buffer don't apply too much pressure. He also said that Rejex was impervious to detergents, even a Dawn wash, but what caused it to deteriorate over time was abrasion mostly from being bombarded by dust, bugs, and other road debris. He said that Rejex on horizontal surfaces would easily last a year while he recommended areas subjected to road debris (e.g., windshield, wheels, and frontal painted areas) be reapplied every six months.

He also mentioned that applying two coats was a good idea but that it was important to let the first coat cure (12 hours) before applying the second. He also said that two coats probably isn't necessary except on frontal surfaces.

Two other rules for applying Rejex is to keep it away from water and sun for the 12-hour curing process and don't dampen the application rag as is a common practice with other products. Also, it's important to keep the ambient temperature below 85° while curing. The application process is a bit arcane and complex, but IMO the result is worth the minor hassle.

 

Rejex is the best , great stuff , I apply pinnacle on top also
It sounds like a lot but its really not . Just keep in garage out of elements overnight , temp below 85 is good makes it easier to cure and remove , I've been using Rejex for a few years its great product

 

Rejex doesn't come off with Dawn, eh? I'll be applying Rejex as soon as it arrives in the mail. Later this summer, I plan to get a clear bra for the front end of my car. I'm assuming it's not ideal for the clear bra to go on overtop the Rejex, right? Should I hold off on the Rejex until after the clear bra is on? Or is there a safe way to remove Rejex?

 

RejeX is not meant to be used on porous surfaces, highly oxidized painted surfaces, or to fill fine scratches. RejeX can be used over existing wax; however, the duration of protection will be reduced as the softer underlying wax degrades comparatively quickly. There is no reason to wax over RejeX. RejeX leaves a shinier, longer-lasting finish than wax… and the wax can't adhere well to RejeX!

 

Had Rejex on my C5 and decided to get a vinyl racing stripe applied. Graphics shop called and asked what type of wax I had on the car because even after cleaning (their method) they could not get good adhesion for the stripe. Told them I was using Rejex and dawn detergent would remove it.....they were then able to apply the graphics.....don't think a clear bra will adhere over Rejex..

 

Rejex of course is very durable, but like any product not invincible either I am sure with a couple of dawn washes you can get it off but it not easy.
And yes, I would NOT apply rejex to whatever area you are planning to get a clear bra, rejex is specfically designed to not let glue, sap, road grime or whatever adhere to the surface and damage it...so as pointed out already, whatever product the clear bra places uses is probably not going to work well with rejex on the car.

 

That's what the Rejex guy (J. D. Hill) said, and mentioned that it mostly deteriorates from abrasion. He suggested re-application every year for horizontal surfaces and every six months for frontal areas. I've been using Rejex for five years on my Harley and it works very well, especially to make love bugs easier to remove. My bike is Black Cherry, almost black, and I've noticed that Rejex tends to repel dust, especially compared to NuFinish. I just applied NuFinish to the Vette and I'm having a very hard time with dust and pollen. That's the reason I called Rejex yesterday, to find out the best way to remove the NuFinish. It doesn't remove easily with Dawn either, I was told, so today I'm going to apply Rejex (one coat) after a Dawn wash, then repeat the process in the fall.

I would call Rejex on that one, but side with FrankTank that it would probably be better not to apply Rejex before installing a clear bra.

 

I received similar information in an email from Rejex last year, they actually said that no chemical or soap can be used to remove Rejex (without damaging the paint). I'm calling BS on that. I needed to apply touch-up paint to about a dozen small paint chips after the car had been Rejexed, I used a small dab of Griots Paint Prep on each area per instructions, after rinsing I also used 91% alcohol on a Q-tip. The touch-up paint has been there for about 6 months/4k miles and it's sticking just fine.

In January I installed the GM GCA splash guards and needed to remove the Rejex (applied about 1 month/1k miles before) so the extra mounting tape would adhere. This time, I used 3M Adhesive Remover (wipe off quickly) followed by the alcohol again. Before installing the guards, I tested the areas with masking tape and it would stick just fine. After installation, the tape on the guards seems to be adhering perfectly.

Also, even with a garage-kept car, I only seem to get about 4 months of "like-new" life from the Rejex, before I can begin to notice a deterioration in the slickness and water beading.

So, I think Rejex is a great product and continue to use it. But some of their claims seems seriously exaggerated.

 

1. Dawn
2. Clay
Depending on the condition of the paint:
2a. Polish - I always need to do this - damn swirls
2c. Glaze
3. Rejex
4. Cure
5. Another coat of Rejex
6. P21S / Pinnacle / your favorite carnuba

Rejex is very durable. This process lasts a long time, depending on conditions of course. When it loses a little wow factor just add another layer of carnuba. You'll be good to go for quite some time.

Cure is key though.