replacing leaf springs
i wanted to replace my stock leafs with z 51 leaf springs
can i do that my self or better not?
i was trying to find how, to but could not find c6 related leaf swap info
any one did the swap?
can i do that my self or better not?
i was trying to find how, to but could not find c6 related leaf swap info
any one did the swap?
I did mine and it was pretty easy.
I disconnected the shock (I was replacing them at the time anyway) and then the 4 bolts that hold the upper A arms on each side with a jack underneath the ball joint (making sure to keep track of the shims and where they go), then to get enough slack I had to actually remove my brake caliper so as not to stretch the brake hose out but that is no big deal. A
After the caliper was loose I was able to wiggle the spring out pretty easily. I didn't do the rear, but I would have done it the same way.
I disconnected the shock (I was replacing them at the time anyway) and then the 4 bolts that hold the upper A arms on each side with a jack underneath the ball joint (making sure to keep track of the shims and where they go), then to get enough slack I had to actually remove my brake caliper so as not to stretch the brake hose out but that is no big deal. A
After the caliper was loose I was able to wiggle the spring out pretty easily. I didn't do the rear, but I would have done it the same way.
If you want a set of z06 springs, my buddy is selling a set cheap
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...ings-pair.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...ings-pair.html
Le Mans Master



Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,022
Likes: 18
From: Tampa FL (formerly Justinjor)
Tech Contributor
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Swap is easy.
Rear: disconnect upper control arm(4x bolts)
Disconnect 10mm brake line mount.
Disconnect UPPER shock mount bolts(2)
Remove caliper. Zip tie or bungy so it doesn't hang by the line
Repeat for opposite side
Remove 4x bolts holding leaf spring brackets.
You might need to pop the axles out of the diff if they don't hang down far enough. This is easy enough with a pry bar.
Remove spring
Front:
Disconnect upper A arm(4 bolts, take note of shim placement so you can put them back in the same place)
Disconnect tie rod end.
Everything else is same as rear.
Rear: disconnect upper control arm(4x bolts)
Disconnect 10mm brake line mount.
Disconnect UPPER shock mount bolts(2)
Remove caliper. Zip tie or bungy so it doesn't hang by the line
Repeat for opposite side
Remove 4x bolts holding leaf spring brackets.
You might need to pop the axles out of the diff if they don't hang down far enough. This is easy enough with a pry bar.
Remove spring
Front:
Disconnect upper A arm(4 bolts, take note of shim placement so you can put them back in the same place)
Disconnect tie rod end.
Everything else is same as rear.
i just took removed the brake line and removed the tie rod bolt vut cant get the tie rod off
any tips?
also is it ok that i removed the brake line? because when i moved the rotor something sprayed on me n ot sure, i think it was brake fluid
want to make sure i do it safe
thanks
any tips?
also is it ok that i removed the brake line? because when i moved the rotor something sprayed on me n ot sure, i think it was brake fluid
want to make sure i do it safe
thanks
i just took removed the brake line and removed the tie rod bolt vut cant get the tie rod off
any tips?
also is it ok that i removed the brake line? because when i moved the rotor something sprayed on me n ot sure, i think it was brake fluid
want to make sure i do it safe
thanks
any tips?
also is it ok that i removed the brake line? because when i moved the rotor something sprayed on me n ot sure, i think it was brake fluid
want to make sure i do it safe
thanks
OMG - have you considered that you may be over your head with this project, especially since you emphasize safety?
You should have only had to remove the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub if you needed slack, but yes that was brake fluid.
As far as the tie rod goes, juiced is right and you will probably need an alignment once you get everything buttoned back up. If you'd have only taken off the four bolts that hold the upper control arm up and unbolted the bottom shock mount your have saved yourself a little work, but you live and learn I suppose.
I'd also recommend getting someone to help you bleed the brakes once you are ready seeing as how you weren't sure that was even break fluid. No offense, but safety is no light matter.
As far as the tie rod goes, juiced is right and you will probably need an alignment once you get everything buttoned back up. If you'd have only taken off the four bolts that hold the upper control arm up and unbolted the bottom shock mount your have saved yourself a little work, but you live and learn I suppose.
I'd also recommend getting someone to help you bleed the brakes once you are ready seeing as how you weren't sure that was even break fluid. No offense, but safety is no light matter.
Did you make slack on both sides and bring the lowering bolts all the way up? Also don't forget about the leaf spring brackets under the middle of the car. You'll still have to wrestle it a little since the base spring really bows quite a bit.
Ok
just finished, the only way i could pull the leaf out is by removing the end link
all done, but noticed few things
out of four upper control arm bolts two keep sinning and not tightening
did i braek the threads? if so how do i fix it?
also on the passenger side the rotor is moving loosely compare the driver side
is there anything wrong?
just finished, the only way i could pull the leaf out is by removing the end link
all done, but noticed few things
out of four upper control arm bolts two keep sinning and not tightening
did i braek the threads? if so how do i fix it?
also on the passenger side the rotor is moving loosely compare the driver side
is there anything wrong?
Ok
just finished, the only way i could pull the leaf out is by removing the end link
all done, but noticed few things
out of four upper control arm bolts two keep sinning and not tightening
did i braek the threads? if so how do i fix it?
also on the passenger side the rotor is moving loosely compare the driver side
is there anything wrong?
just finished, the only way i could pull the leaf out is by removing the end link
all done, but noticed few things
out of four upper control arm bolts two keep sinning and not tightening
did i braek the threads? if so how do i fix it?
also on the passenger side the rotor is moving loosely compare the driver side
is there anything wrong?
Since you removed the line from the brake caliper, you released the pressure holding the pads in place so that rotor will be able to spin until you get pressure back in the line.
weird....I did this today as well, I swapped out the lowering bolts. leaf had to be removed as the bolt was stripped.
I'd remove the bolts from the a arm, look for stripped bolts. if so I'd take em to the parts store and get replcements as you might get lucky and be able to get the new ones to get snug in there.
the driver side caliper might just need to get some vacum to pull the break pad away from the rotor. the way to do this is turn on the car and pump the break couple times
I'd remove the bolts from the a arm, look for stripped bolts. if so I'd take em to the parts store and get replcements as you might get lucky and be able to get the new ones to get snug in there.
the driver side caliper might just need to get some vacum to pull the break pad away from the rotor. the way to do this is turn on the car and pump the break couple times















