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I understand I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer but given all I've seen and done with clay bars, I've done it twice and cannot pass the plastic bag test.
I did it a couple weels ago using; Mothers Clay, TW Ice polish which i came to find out is more like wax, and finished it off with NXT. I went a couple weeks without washing it and when I did, I noticed a lack of water beading which I found odd. I also noticed a roughness to the paint surface. So I did the plastic bag test and it felt like I didn't do anything.
I decided to start from scratch and wash the car with Dawn to strip the old wax, bought some Meguiars clay, polish with Meguiars Ultimate polish and wax with NXT. It looks good and to my hand's touch, it's pretty smooth but I used a plastic bag; a little less rough than before but far from the desired effect.
What am I missing? Clay barring seems to be a simple process but I'm disappointed because I invested a crap lot of time wIth seemingly little difference.
I have never used a clay bar. I use NXT on my 07 and it comes out like glass. Super smooth. I wax only once during the season and is garage kept. Maybe a good detail maybe in order. Sorry I couldn't help much.
Assuming you are doing it correctly with quick detail wax spray and clay bar, you should clay bar until it feels like glass, this could take awhile to do properly but be careful you are not marring your paint http://www.bugmanweb.com/c6/c6index.html
Don't know if this helps but here is a link to go over just to help out http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...se-a-clay-bar/
After stripping the wax (try using isopropyl alcohol) do the clay treatment, do the bag test at this point. Do not polish or wax the car until you pass the Baggie test. Once the paint is smooth then you can polish, then do the Baggie test again to verify that you haven't left any residue from the polish. Once you pass this test then you can wax. Then test again.
This process will tell you what step of your process needs "tweaking".
I have always had great results with clay. I always do a small section at a time and check the area with the baggy test each time. You may need to work a section a few times to get it really smooth. Once you have it smooth apply a good polish then wax.
As far as the beading goes, I have know idea what would cause that. I can tell you the claying did not. Beading is caused by the wax on the paint. if it did not bead up as it should I would look at the wax application and or product itself.
Is the paint on your car original? Any heavy over spray on it?
Claying a car is super easy but you do have to make sure the area you are claying is smooth and clean before moving on. Wash, clay, then feel the paint. If it is still rough clay again. Make sure you are folding the clay over to hide the contaminants.
If the paint is original, claying it while using plenty of the supplied detail spray should make it smooth as glass.
You need to keep the surface wet while using the clay. I go through almost a whole bottle of detail spray claying my car.
You need to keep kneading and folding the clay as you go along.
After your done you need to use more detail spray and microfiber towels to go over the car until it's cleaned off. I go over mine twice and use about 4 towels doing it.
When car is cleaned off just wax it. While wiping wax off I use about another 5 towels folding every few wipes. Then I use a microfiber pad on my buffer and go over the car.
The results are smotth as a baby's butt!!
I would never use polish unless I had oxidized paint problems.
You need to keep the surface wet while using the clay. I go through almost a whole bottle of detail spray claying my car.
You need to keep kneading and folding the clay as you go along.
After your done you need to use more detail spray and microfiber towels to go over the car until it's cleaned off. I go over mine twice and use about 4 towels doing it.
When car is cleaned off just wax it. While wiping wax off I use about another 5 towels folding every few wipes. Then I use a microfiber pad on my buffer and go over the car.
The results are smotth as a baby's butt!!
I would never use polish unless I had oxidized paint problems.
Which microfiber pad do you use ?
And a question to the group:
When I clawed in the past, I used car wash soap mixed with water and a spray bottle ( I'm a cheap ****). Instead of costly detail spray and the results were good. Do y'all see a problem with that ?
Why are you using polish before waxing?
I would never use polish unless I had oxidized paint problems.
Polish is what truly gives the paint the shine. I will also remove any small scratches in the paint. The wax will give it protection and shine, but if you polish first and then wax you will see the difference.
Originally Posted by EVRose
Mine is smooth as glass and shiney as a mirror after I clay and wax and I dont need no damm plastic bag on my hand to know it.
I am not doubting what you said, but you may want to try the baggy trick. Your finger tips will not fell the real fine bumps that you can feel with the baggy.
When I clawed in the past, I used car wash soap mixed with water and a spray bottle ( I'm a cheap ****). Instead of costly detail spray and the results were good. Do y'all see a problem with that ?
Nothing wrong with that, main thing is to keep it wet. The microfiber pad I bought at the auto store just fits over my 10" buffer.
Lots of concentrated soap/water spray. Do small areas, and keep folding the clay over.
Soap = lube. If you aren't creating a thin film barrier for the claybar to slide on, you are raising potential to be scratching the car with the contaminants that the bar is picking up.
I commonly will mix 25/75 Meguiars car wash soap with water in a large spray bottle and am constantly spraying that as I apply the bar with the other hand. Do this in a shaded area so you can cover more area before needing to rinse.
Wash. Clay. Polish. Protect (either wax or sealant). Always in this order, and it sounds like you did this correctly.
Maybe you need a different polish or polishing pad to level out the surface of the clear coat more evenly. Start off with a less aggressive polish/pad and step up as needed to get the finish you're looking for. I assume you're using a DA of some sort (Flex, Porter-Cable, Griots, Megs, etc) and not trying to polish hard corvette paint by hand?
As far as Microfiber pads, I really like the ones from Optimum Polymer Technologies (both the compound and polishing pads).
I clayed my previous car (G35) and had the expected results. So all the suggestions on how to do it (lube, folding, kneading, working in small areas, etc...) are appreciated and were executed as directed. Could it be I wasn't pressing hard enough? In reading the posts; too much pressure could mar the paint.
My car lives in the garage so I assume there's less exposure to the elements.
I was wondering if it was possibly an anomoly with the car's paint but since you all seem to be getting good results; it's me.
You have to decide how much paint/polish/clay work is enough? For me I use a cleaner wax once a year. You can overdo it with little or no noticeable results.
I commonly will mix 25/75 Meguiars car wash soap with water in a large spray bottle and am constantly spraying that as I apply the bar with the other hand.
That's exactly what I use and since it is MUCH cheaper than detail spray, I use a lot of it. The car is actually dripping where I work and I have never had a problem with marring the paint.
The only downside is that clay gets REAL slippery. It takes effort to keep from dropping it.