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Lear Car 2 U bad?

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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 01:22 PM
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Default Lear Car 2 U bad?

I just returned from my nuclear stress test, pulled up in my driveway and stopped in front of my garage door.

Why stop? Well the door was down. You are probably wondering why I don't push the button on my sun visor and make the door go up. Well, I've been pushing and often. Thus this post.

My range has been decreasing gradually to where I'm sitting with my hood at the door and pushing that damn button repeatedly to get the door up. After a dozen times, I started to get out of the car and use the touch pad on the garage door jam when the door finally got in the mood and went up.

So, the question is what transmits the signal to the door opener? Is it the actual sun visor? When I push the button, the red LED comes on. I also have my NPP programmed to a separate button and that seems to work perfectly.

Do I need a new sun-visor or is there some other controller that needs to be replaced.

TIA,

Elmer
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 01:37 PM
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Have you tried to reprogram it? Is the Navy doing any wierd testing nearby? I live next to an AF base and a few years ago they were doing some tests that interfered with the freq that the garage door openers use. You had to be right on top of the door before it would respond.
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tally Ho
Have you tried to reprogram it? Is the Navy doing any wierd testing nearby? I live next to an AF base and a few years ago they were doing some tests that interfered with the freq that the garage door openers use. You had to be right on top of the door before it would respond.

Well, the Navy has been hovering in 6 black helicopters over my house and red laser dots appear on my roof but other than that, I'm not reading about any silly Naval exercises.


It seems to just be a weaker signal from the car. I have the original door opener but it needs batteries. Once I get them I'll use that to get the door up and down. If that thing works, then I'm transmitting a weak signal. The question is from what? The visor or RCDLR or XYZAB or some other Greek glomp of alphabet soup part that needs to be replaced.

Elmer
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
...I have the original door opener but it needs batteries. Once I get them I'll use that to get the door up and down...
So you haven't tried another remote door opener yet?

That is, maybe the problem is the garage receiver.
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bedouin
A year ago when my '12 GS was new, the Craftsman garage door opener in my center console only need one click at the top of my driveway...maybe 30' from the opener. Now, even after a new battery, I have to be right up at the door, @ 15' away, for the opener to work & I've no idea why the range has decreased so much either.

Sounds like we're both in the same canoe and not a paddle between us!


Elmer
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CO Lightfoot
So you haven't tried another remote door opener yet?

That is, maybe the problem is the garage receiver.

I just drove back from Walgreen's where I picked up 2 2016 batteries and loaded them into the Craftsman garage door opener remote control. I pushed the remote button as I started to pull in the driveway and the door went up immediately on the first push and I am now convinced that whatever transmits the "signal" from my car to my house garage door opener is dieing.


So, what is my transmitter? Visor? Alphabet soup electronic box in the car? Whatever it is, it is going dead on transmission power.


Elmer
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 03:52 PM
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I just got off the phone talking to Lear. We concluded that my Car2U is the correct unit. My garage door is a compatible frequency to function. After discussion, she said I programmed it wrong.


In our conversation, I mentioned that I programmed the visor in 2007 while the car was sitting in the garage and under the garage door opener rcvr. I was too close. She wants me to reprogram the visor but this time I need to be sitting 5-10 feet away from the garage door and be in the driveway.

My visor has been working since 2007, and suddenly, now, it decides that it needs to be reprogrammed but I should be farther away during the programming. Sigh... I'm really having a hard time rationalizing this concept... BUT, I'm willing to give it a whirl no matter how stupid it sounds.


BUT, right now it is raining like a Guernsey pissin on a flat rock and I'm NOT going out there to program that damn thing in the rain.


I'll let ya'll know if this fixes my issue. Sigh.........


Elmer
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 04:07 PM
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I'm pretty sure that the transmitter is "in" the visor because if I pull the visor down away from the windshield header, the range gets greater.

I also think it's something to do with the car.
My other cars will open the same door from over 100'.
The "Vette has to be within 20' of the door.
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
Well, the Navy has been hovering in 6 black helicopters over my house and red laser dots appear on my roof
Maybe its your avatar?

We'll miss you, Elmer.
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ButWhatDoIKnow
Maybe its your avatar?

We'll miss you, Elmer.
The IRS will be there soon.
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 05:16 PM
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I sometimes have this issue as well. For me, its a problem when I leave my cell phone in the slot where the cupholders rside. With the slide door closed, my android fits really neatly in there, but seemingly effects the transmission of the door opener. If I move it to the passenger seat the door goes right up. coinkidinky? I dunno.
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 05:17 PM
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Default did you buy a new phone ?

Could it be looking for your home network? Some folks are stating that their cell phones are causing interference with the key fobs, maybe it's affecting your visor transmission

good luck
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
I just returned from my nuclear stress test, pulled up in my driveway and stopped in front of my garage door.

Why stop? Well the door was down. You are probably wondering why I don't push the button on my sun visor and make the door go up. Well, I've been pushing and often. Thus this post.

My range has been decreasing gradually to where I'm sitting with my hood at the door and pushing that damn button repeatedly to get the door up. After a dozen times, I started to get out of the car and use the touch pad on the garage door jam when the door finally got in the mood and went up.

So, the question is what transmits the signal to the door opener? Is it the actual sun visor? When I push the button, the red LED comes on. I also have my NPP programmed to a separate button and that seems to work perfectly.

Do I need a new sun-visor or is there some other controller that needs to be replaced.

TIA,

Elmer
Lear Car 2 U bad?

Is that even English? I think they nuked you too long...
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by IrishSpuds
Lear Car 2 U bad?

Is that even English? I think they nuked you too long...

I think I smelled burning chicken while I was sitting there?


Well, I thought the visor was a Lear Car2U type. Hell, I'm just happy to have survived the treadmill without causing a Code Blue!
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by IrishSpuds
Lear Car 2 U bad?

Is that even English? I think they nuked you too long...
If your opener is not Homelink its Lear Car2u
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 07:08 PM
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Well, there was a break in the flood. Rain stopped so I tried to reprogram the visor from outside of the garage, about 15' from the garage door opener. I can't get it to program. I tried to program the same button and got the door to go down but it wouldn't open again. I programmed a different button on the visor and that one wouldn't close or open the door.

I push the two outside buttons for 2 seconds and all 3 LEDs light. I then push the program button on the garage door, go to the car and push the button I want to use and hold it. I'm supposed to do that until the door moves. The door never twitches at all. After a long time, all 3 LEDs start flashing rapidly, still no movement of the garage door. I let go of the "programmed" button. After a few seconds the LED s go off.

That's it, nothing works on those two buttons. Luckily, the NPP still works on the visor but that's the only thing that functions.

I take the garage door remote, walk out to the street and tap the button and the door goes up immediately. I think my visor has taken a dump.


Elmer
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 08:33 PM
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I have to tip my visor or my door will not open. In a tipped position I am good from 15' or closer. If you figure it out let me know.
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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I have Lear too (found out the hard way as I was trying to program as per the homelink instructions of the manual and was getting nowhere). After programing it with help from Learcar2u on the phone, (who did have me stay a minimum of 5 feet away from the garage door) it's been working great and I can open the door way before I even hit the driveway without having to move the visor.
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 11:05 PM
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How about wireless causing problems with signal sometimes mine opens coming up the street others turning in sometimes to close I have to hold it. I know a lot of tech junkies live close by and I have wireless internet and I phone.
z51vett
Doug
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 42Chevy
I have to tip my visor or my door will not open. In a tipped position I am good from 15' or closer. If you figure it out let me know.
$1, $2, $5 or what?
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