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how many quarts of oil???

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Old 06-15-2013, 12:09 PM
  #41  
Patman
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A half a quart here or there really makes no difference, so if in doubt just throw in an even 6 and call it a day. In the 9 years I owned my C5 I always ran it a full quart over capacity and had no problems whatsoever doing that.
Old 06-18-2013, 09:10 AM
  #42  
j_digi454
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Originally Posted by C-INRED
That's my M.O. My LS2 always took exactly 6 quarts even though the manual said 5-1/2.
For the last 6 years, I've been putting in 5 1/2 quarts as specified by the manual and it has been exactly on the full mark every time.

This is for an 07 non-Z51 LS2.
Old 06-18-2013, 09:24 AM
  #43  
speedraider
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I'm sure the oil has been changed by now.
Old 06-18-2013, 09:44 AM
  #44  
Larry/car
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Originally Posted by 2006c6keller
That is not correct, the owner's manual says to fill to correct level on the dipstick AND if you are racing, ADD an additional quart of oil. This is in the manual, and a friend of mine burned an engine up Xcrossing by not adding the additional qt of oil. So now, let's play it smart and save the engine. That extra is alot cheaper than an engine. Hope you are not having financial problems.
The extra qt of oil is to prevent unporting the oil pickup in the oil pan during multi high lateral G turns. Street driven cars rarely see lateral G turns greater than .7 G. It is not the cost of oil but what the engine actually needs, excess just goes into the PCV system. There must have been some other underlying cause of your friend's engine failure. A momentary loss of oil will not cause instant failure. An engine will run for some time without any oil in the pan. How do I know, we tested an old junker without oil, ran longer than I would of guessed.
Old 06-20-2013, 06:06 AM
  #45  
2006c6keller
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Originally Posted by Larry/car
The extra qt of oil is to prevent unporting the oil pickup in the oil pan during multi high lateral G turns.

Yes, that is a fair statement, BUT a "windage tray" can help lessen this problem of "unporting" or sucking air.

Street driven cars rarely see lateral G turns greater than .7 G. It is not the cost of oil but what the engine actually needs, excess just goes into the PCV system.

The excessive oil fumes are sucked out of the top of the engine through the top block cover that is between the two heads (NOT valve covers) through an angled metal nipple to a hose from a tap into the air intake sleve. This is a "J" shaped hose without a valve.

There must have been some other underlying cause of your friend's engine failure.

Yes, he drove it ALL day with an under filled crankcase which caused on and off oil starvation which resulted in scored bearings, etc.

A momentary loss of oil will not cause instant failure.

Momentary losses of oil UNDER high loads will cause the scoring of engine bearings which expontentially cause their failure which add up over time.

An engine will run for some time without any oil in the pan.

The bearings will run for a lshort time before they become hot, scored, and then fail.

How do I know, we tested an old junker without oil, ran longer than I would of guessed.


Well, if you have ever rebuild engines that have been run for many miles and with mimimal oil changes, you can see the bearing wear, etc. clearly. Don't ask how I know, because I have rebuilt engines for others. Basically, if you have low or no fluids levels in a car you basically can ruin or loose the car from the lack of oil, water, and brake fluids.

Have a nice day!



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