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confused about the best way to do a 4-point lift so that i can change my diff fluid? i have race ramps, 2 jack stands, jack pucks, and a race jack with a cross-member. think i have everything i need but not 100% certain of the easiest way to do this...
confused about the best way to do a 4-point lift so that i can change my diff fluid? i have race ramps, 2 jack stands, jack pucks, and a race jack with a cross-member. think i have everything i need but not 100% certain of the easiest way to do this...
1. Drive the front of the car up on the ramps.
2. Attach the cross-beam adaptor onto your floor jack.
3. Jack up the rear of the car by placing the cross-beam adaptor on the car's frame.
4. Place jack stands on the side frame rails, or under the cross-beam adaptor.
1. Drive the front of the car up on the ramps.
2. Attach the cross-beam adaptor onto your floor jack.
3. Jack up the rear of the car by placing the cross-beam adaptor on the car's frame.
4. Place jack stands on the side frame rails, or under the cross-beam adaptor.
Wouldn't you have to be sure to chock the front wheels on the Race Ramps before jacking up the rear?
I was thinking that the parking brakes only held the back wheels. Will the parking brake keep the front wheels from moving with the rear wheels off of the ground?
Last edited by ncvette_1FUNRIDE; Aug 3, 2013 at 05:37 PM.
Reason: typo
You definitely need to chock the front (non-drive) wheels on the ramps before lifting the rear tires off the ground. Otherwise the entire car can roll backwards since the wheels on the floor jack are free-spinning. The parking brake won't help once the rear is off the ground. Parking brakes barely help with the rear tires on the ground!
The new RLL-80-2 ramps we introduced earlier this year do have a 14" radius cradle which helps a little to keep the front tires from rolling back. But I would still use a wheel chock even with the cradle top platforms.
Originally Posted by ncvette_1FUNRIDE
Wouldn't you have to be sure to chock the front wheels on the Race Ramps before jacking up the rear?
I was thinking that the parking brakes only held the back wheels. Will the parking brake keep the front wheels from moving with the rear wheels off of the ground?
On a side note will most ramps clear the front air deflector?
The air deflectors under the car are flexible and they will clear most ramps, even if the scrape a little it won't hurt anything.
The front splitters on the wide body cars are another matter. You would probably need a less steep incline like on the Race Ramps to keep those from hitting.
My car is lowered a little and I have a ZR1 type of splitter on the front, so I have the 2 piece variable incline 87" Race Ramps.
You definitely need to chock the front (non-drive) wheels on the ramps before lifting the rear tires off the ground. Otherwise the entire car can roll backwards since the wheels on the floor jack are free-spinning. The parking brake won't help once the rear is off the ground. Parking brakes barely help with the rear tires on the ground!
The new RLL-80-2 ramps we introduced earlier this year do have a 14" radius cradle which helps a little to keep the front tires from rolling back. But I would still use a wheel chock even with the cradle top platforms.
Thanks, that is what I was thinking.
I have your 2 piece 87" variable incline Race Ramps with the 2" stop.
BTW, I had considered changing my 87" and 72" ramps to use a cradle top platform. But since a lot of people (including me) have SUVs and pickups with tires that are 31" in diameter or larger, I decided not to change my other ramps.
Originally Posted by ncvette_1FUNRIDE
Thanks, that is what I was thinking.
I have your 2 piece 87" variable incline Race Ramps with the 2" stop.
I would do some searches on this. I'm glad I didn't wait till 150,000 to change my diff oil. It was black at 62,000.
It gets black before 5,000 miles according to some other people who change fluids real early. And I'm not sure that the OEM factory fill isn't black to start with. I've used some very high quality industrial lubricants that were black initially, so color is not a good indicator of useful life.