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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 04:27 PM
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Default lift question

confused about the best way to do a 4-point lift so that i can change my diff fluid? i have race ramps, 2 jack stands, jack pucks, and a race jack with a cross-member. think i have everything i need but not 100% certain of the easiest way to do this...
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 12:24 PM
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Default Lifting

Originally Posted by child_of_fire
confused about the best way to do a 4-point lift so that i can change my diff fluid? i have race ramps, 2 jack stands, jack pucks, and a race jack with a cross-member. think i have everything i need but not 100% certain of the easiest way to do this...
1. Drive the front of the car up on the ramps.
2. Attach the cross-beam adaptor onto your floor jack.
3. Jack up the rear of the car by placing the cross-beam adaptor on the car's frame.
4. Place jack stands on the side frame rails, or under the cross-beam adaptor.

See this post for location of jacking points...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1578321552-post7.html

Good luck!!!
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PacificaVette
1. Drive the front of the car up on the ramps.
2. Attach the cross-beam adaptor onto your floor jack.
3. Jack up the rear of the car by placing the cross-beam adaptor on the car's frame.
4. Place jack stands on the side frame rails, or under the cross-beam adaptor.

See this post for location of jacking points...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1578321552-post7.html

Good luck!!!
i didnt think it'd be that easy because with the front lifted on ramps i assumed the rear would be too low to get a jack under. thanks.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 03:46 PM
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You can use a set of Trak-Jax or Roll-ups under the rear tires to get the extra clearance for the floor jack.

http://www.reverselogic.us/jack-assist-ramps.html

Originally Posted by child_of_fire
i didnt think it'd be that easy because with the front lifted on ramps i assumed the rear would be too low to get a jack under. thanks.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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Wouldn't you have to be sure to chock the front wheels on the Race Ramps before jacking up the rear?

I was thinking that the parking brakes only held the back wheels. Will the parking brake keep the front wheels from moving with the rear wheels off of the ground?

Last edited by ncvette_1FUNRIDE; Aug 3, 2013 at 05:37 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 05:32 PM
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Wow. Are you up to the 150,000 mile mark for the recommended dif fluid change already? Or is this a pre-emtive strike against gear wear?
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 06:28 PM
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You definitely need to chock the front (non-drive) wheels on the ramps before lifting the rear tires off the ground. Otherwise the entire car can roll backwards since the wheels on the floor jack are free-spinning. The parking brake won't help once the rear is off the ground. Parking brakes barely help with the rear tires on the ground!

The new RLL-80-2 ramps we introduced earlier this year do have a 14" radius cradle which helps a little to keep the front tires from rolling back. But I would still use a wheel chock even with the cradle top platforms.

Originally Posted by ncvette_1FUNRIDE
Wouldn't you have to be sure to chock the front wheels on the Race Ramps before jacking up the rear?

I was thinking that the parking brakes only held the back wheels. Will the parking brake keep the front wheels from moving with the rear wheels off of the ground?
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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On a side note will most ramps clear the front air deflector?
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Vetteguy88
On a side note will most ramps clear the front air deflector?
The air deflectors under the car are flexible and they will clear most ramps, even if the scrape a little it won't hurt anything.

The front splitters on the wide body cars are another matter. You would probably need a less steep incline like on the Race Ramps to keep those from hitting.

My car is lowered a little and I have a ZR1 type of splitter on the front, so I have the 2 piece variable incline 87" Race Ramps.

For a regular C6, Rhino ramps would work fine.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Fred@ReverseLogic
You definitely need to chock the front (non-drive) wheels on the ramps before lifting the rear tires off the ground. Otherwise the entire car can roll backwards since the wheels on the floor jack are free-spinning. The parking brake won't help once the rear is off the ground. Parking brakes barely help with the rear tires on the ground!

The new RLL-80-2 ramps we introduced earlier this year do have a 14" radius cradle which helps a little to keep the front tires from rolling back. But I would still use a wheel chock even with the cradle top platforms.
Thanks, that is what I was thinking.

I have your 2 piece 87" variable incline Race Ramps with the 2" stop.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Wow. Are you up to the 150,000 mile mark for the recommended dif fluid change already? Or is this a pre-emtive strike against gear wear?

I would do some searches on this. I'm glad I didn't wait till 150,000 to change my diff oil. It was black at 62,000.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 09:55 PM
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BTW, I had considered changing my 87" and 72" ramps to use a cradle top platform. But since a lot of people (including me) have SUVs and pickups with tires that are 31" in diameter or larger, I decided not to change my other ramps.

Originally Posted by ncvette_1FUNRIDE
Thanks, that is what I was thinking.

I have your 2 piece 87" variable incline Race Ramps with the 2" stop.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 10:22 PM
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I prefer the 2" stops myself.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo 89
I would do some searches on this. I'm glad I didn't wait till 150,000 to change my diff oil. It was black at 62,000.
It gets black before 5,000 miles according to some other people who change fluids real early. And I'm not sure that the OEM factory fill isn't black to start with. I've used some very high quality industrial lubricants that were black initially, so color is not a good indicator of useful life.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
color is not a good indicator of useful life.
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