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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 11:43 PM
  #21  
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I quit changing oil in cars when I was 16.... I'm now bumping 72...

Same technician has changed my oil for the past 24 years. Takes about 20 minutes costs $53.80 with filter and 6 qts Mobile 1. Why in the world would I want to screw with it? It's just an oil change for Pete's sake....
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 12:11 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 4thC4at60
I quit changing oil in cars when I was 16.... I'm now bumping 72...

Same technician has changed my oil for the past 24 years. Takes about 20 minutes costs $53.80 with filter and 6 qts Mobile 1. Why in the world would I want to screw with it? It's just an oil change for Pete's sake....
You quit when you were 16?? So how long did you do it before you quit? I was just starting at 16 and have been doing it for 37 years. I've never had anyone change my oil but me. I guess I just enjoy doing things myself as long as I'm able.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 12:15 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Red12
I used the RACE RAMPS. Piece of cake.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by EVRose
You quit when you were 16?? So how long did you do it before you quit? I was just starting at 16 and have been doing it for 37 years. I've never had anyone change my oil but me. I guess I just enjoy doing things myself as long as I'm able.
I'm able, capable.... just don't see the point... these things are just cars.... if I suddenly feel the urge that I've just got to do an oil change I'll change it in my lawn tractor....
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:25 AM
  #25  
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Just for your info ... There are 2 sizes of Rhino Ramps. Make sure you get the wider ones (12000).

RhinoRamps 8000
Length: 35"
Width: 10.5"
Height: 8.5"
Incline: 17 degrees

RhinoRamps 12000
Length: 36"
Width: 11.5"
Height: 8.5"
Incline: 17 degrees

Get a couple of 3 feet long 2" x 10"s to increase the total length of the Rhino Ramps so you don't scrape going up them.

Much cheaper than buying those expensive Race Ramps.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:29 AM
  #26  
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I don't have my car any longer but when I did I used a low profile, long reach (Omega) pump jack with crossbeam in front to change the oil. If I wanted the whole car up in the air for other work I used a second pump jack in the rear.

Even with the low profile jacks to clear the crossbeams I needed to pull the car up on 2x lumber to make it work. Once I got the system figured out I could jack the car up pretty quickly by myself.

Last edited by C-INRED; Aug 9, 2013 at 11:43 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:31 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Turbo6TA
Just for your info ... There are 2 sizes of Rhino Ramps. Make sure you get the wider ones (12000).

RhinoRamps 8000
Length: 35"
Width: 10.5"
Height: 8.5"
Incline: 17 degrees

RhinoRamps 12000
Length: 36"
Width: 11.5"
Height: 8.5"
Incline: 17 degrees

Get a couple of 3 feet long 2" x 10"s to increase the total length of the Rhino Ramps so you don't scrape going up them.

Much cheaper than buying those expensive Race Ramps.
Thanks
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:33 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 4thC4at60
I'm able, capable.... just don't see the point... these things are just cars.... if I suddenly feel the urge that I've just got to do an oil change I'll change it in my lawn tractor....
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 03:25 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ezrider4u2
love 'em. just make sure you get the 10" height.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 03:47 AM
  #30  
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I use 1 puck and jack up behind front wheel,and just reach under with my arm. No reason to crawl under the car.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 03:58 AM
  #31  
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Rather than ramps where driving on them is somewhat of a problem itself, I chose to make a simple HD box to slip under the wheels after I jack up the front. Then jack up the rear and use jackstands there with the floor jack as the safety backup.

One length of 2 x 8 and $.25 per cut at Home Depot and a handful of nails got me going.

I also stab a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain out oil before removing it. It's a lot less messier that way.

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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 06:45 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
I also stab a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain out oil before removing it. It's a lot less messier that way.
Hey, that's a darn good idea. What do you use to stab it with, just a screwdriver or something.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
Hey, that's a darn good idea. What do you use to stab it with, just a screwdriver or something.
please tell us your weapon of choice...
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:24 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by R&L's C6
Hey, that's a darn good idea. What do you use to stab it with, just a screwdriver or something.
I've used screwdrivers before, but I currently use a small pick that has a 90 degree bend on the end of the shaft. It's one of the 4 I bought at Harbor Freight for $3 or $4. Just hold the point at the bottom center of the filter and tap it with something to poke the hole. The best part of using that tool, is when removing it, the oil doesn't try running down the tool before you move it out of the way.

After it drains to a slow drip, you can partially thread in a sheet metal screw to plug the hole before you spin off the filter.

If you're halfway careful, the only oil cleanup is on the end of the pick tool and not on your hands or the floor.

Pre-filling the filter is a waste of time. After you've drained the oil from the pan, you've also drained the oil pickup tube and the pump and all the oil passages too. It only takes a couple of seconds when you start the engine to re-establish full flow including filling the filter.
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 12:19 AM
  #35  
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Ah yes, the "dry start" concerns. Initially, I did not know about the method to crank the engine to bring up oil pressure and pump the new oil thru. Now I use the floored pedal method for the initial starting of the engine after changing the oil. Years ago I was taught that most wear on a motor occurred during start-up, especially if the oil had drained down into the pan or oil had just been drained and refilled. Wizards here on Corvette Forum taught the trick of cranking the LS3 with the pedal floored. The motor will not start when the accelerator pedal is floored. I wait for oil pressure to register on the gauge, then I stop cranking and start the motor normally without touching the pedal. I then feel better about the "dry start" issue. In the old days, I would pull the coil wire to allow cranking to bring up oil pressure. Am I overly concerned? Maybe
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 02:35 AM
  #36  
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I started changing oil and filter on my Dads car when i was 15. Been changing oil, filter, etc., ever since. I enjoy it and i know it's done right.
Pull it on the wood ramps, remove filter and drain plug. Fill up filter with oil and install, tighten drain plug. Add oil, Done.
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 07:15 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by C6ROLLER
So you guys don't use jack stands or ramps right? You just reach in there while the floor jack holds the car up on the driver side only? You don't need the filter wrench/tool to remove the oil filter? Just your hand gets it done? Damn that's pretty easy...thanks
Turn the wheel to the left gives a little more room. Use an extension on the wrench and you can remove the oil plug while sitting on the floor. Lay on your back and you can reach the filter with a wrench. No, you don't need ramps or a jack but I do use a jack to raise the car a few inches because that makes it a little easier. Two pieces of 2x12 are only raising the car 3 inches. To me that's barely worth the effort of handling and storing heavy wood but that is probably more than I raise it with the jack because you don't really need to raise it at all. Wally World sells the pan in Lightfoot's picture that fits under without raising.
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 03:24 PM
  #38  
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Wow, forum members must be really slender to reach under without lifting the car. I am not slender (although I do have orangutan-arms needing a 37 inch sleeve on my dress shirts) and I need to lift the car to do anything more than feel around under my Vette.

With my drained-oil container, I wouldn't have room to drop a filter or wrench on the drain without raising the car. Maybe a shallow pan would work better.

I am very happy using my three lumber boards as ramps. I do use my ramps to lift both sides of the car. I block the rear wheels and even use short jack-stand or a big block of wood to assure that my cars won't come down on me. I am paranoid about that.
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 04:57 PM
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 05:34 PM
  #40  
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I built some ramps
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