bill K

My Friend just bought a 2005 a4 stock to the bone, I drove it Sunday and it was shocking the difference with out a Cow Boost. I had my car tuned and Cow Boosted by Chuck, the difference is unreal. I guess you just get use to it after a while. I let my friend drive mine he could not believe the difference. I must say it is top on his list of must do. Chuck you will soon have another Cow Boosted Friend.

JRHAWK9

You should run him once and see if the perceived performance increase is the same as the actual performance increase.

bill K

I know there is no way he can keep up with me. You must drive one then the other, no way

Drewstein

Snake oil. It's a seat of the pants feel but the car's not any faster.

LFZ

Rofl

85scott

I'd like to see the results of a race like that too....

Two exact cars. Same track, same day, and preferrably autos also, so there's less chance of differences with drivers.


Because I still can't make myself plunk down a $1,000 on techy stuff like tunes & cold air boxes, without first believing in a logical explanation on how they could add power.

Why would GM purposely de-tune the Corvette?
There is no emission test at WOT. And though emissions might explain detuning at lower rpms & idle. That could also hurt fuel economy, which automakers are so paranoid about.

So before I buy a tune - I first want to know GM's original timing specs & A/F ratios.

And cold air boxes. How could they increase horsepower from airflow unless the original GM airbox was flowing less cfm than the 90mm throttle body?

Which I doubt. But even if it was, it still seems unlikely to be much of a restriction. Because GM engineers certainly didn't design a 600cfm airbox for 900-950cfm throttle body.

Nor could a cold airbox make colder air unless it's sealed & drawing all it's air from outside the engine bay. And from what I've seen, most appear more semi-sealed like GM's.

I'm talking stock engines only. If you add cams, headers, etc, then it's like real parts again. And I can see the reasons to re-tune, etc.

schmegeggie

Chuck?

Mike's LS3

There actually is emissions at WOT and it has to do with the catalytic converter. A richer A/F ratio at WOT will keep the catalytic converters cooler and prevent them from overheating and creating more emissions. If the A/F is too lean it can destroy the catalytic converter. This is why the ECM is programmed with a catalytic overtemp protection (COPT) which dumps more fuel to cool the cats once the catalytic converters reach a certain temperature.

As far as CAI, they do not make cold air, but flow ambient air or close to it vs. heated engine compartment air. Cold air has a higher oxygen density which improves performance. Designs of CAI differ and some do a better job than others.

GM designs a global tune to satisfy different altitudes, different climates, emission and protect the GM warranty. GM tunes protect the drivetrain by using torque management, COTP, reduce timing for IAT's over 86*, reduce timing with coolant temps over 213*, knock sensors, emissions, etc.

A CAI and safe tune can change the parameters to improve performance. By data logging you can view exactly how your engine runs at cruise and at WOT and make adjustment where needed for your environment.


Below is drag strip scenario and you draw your own conclusion:

Car #1 has CAI and tune and sits at the lights waiting to go. IAT's and coolant temps are below threshold limits. Car has been safely tuned (without going into detail of a tune) and runs efficiently with proper WOT A/F ratio, no knock retard throughout the rpm range, etc.

Car 2 is stock and sitting at the lights with air intake temps and coolant temps rising over the threshold limit. The ECM has started to pull timing.
As the car revs through the rpm range the ECM detects knock and triggers the knock sensors at around 4500 rpm, more timing is pulled.


All things being equal, including the driver, I would put my money on car #1.

Is it worth it? That's up to you and only you to decide!

peter pan

I got real world before and after Cow tune 1/4s. 12.9s before and 12.4s after a real world 1/2 second faster after his tune

HOXXOH

And compared to my previous tune my 1/4 mile times stayed the same after his tune and I got a real world blown engine too.

85scott

Would be more useful if you compared in mph. Because generally speaking, mph = power when going thru the 1/4 mile. While better times could be from more power, or improved traction, launches, drifer skill, etc.

And if it's an auto, perhaps from faster more precise shifts also.
Which is every bit as useful, it's just not a power gain.

peter pan

I had Chuck keep my engine tune rich and I think my better time is because of the shifting as if you look at the threads I posted last year it has all the data from before and after tune. I used the same track and tires, for me my tune was well worth it.

JRHAWK9

I think you may be surprised. Not saying you may not be a bit faster, but it may not be as much as you might think. I'm talking WOT vs WOT, not your perceived SOTP "1/2 throttle" vs his perceived SOTP "1/2 throttle".

JRHAWK9

J Christensen

For the accelerator heightening that is the seat of the pants feel because the gears remain in lower gears longer and also go into them with less peddle press, so a nice sense that the car is willing and able to be more aggressive. Not going to change to make the car faster then if both were floored (Cow and uncow boosted cars).

Now the other is a 'tune', and that will make a difference from stock car where it is a bit faster (if the tune is good).

So for the poster, perhaps no snake oil and just plain likes the feel of the pedal accelerator, and the tune working as it should.

I have a cow booster and it made a nice feeling as the transmission was responding more aggressively/timely as it should more of come from Chevy. Not any faster.

My tune is faster.

1BADLS3

A good tune will add a bit of power, maybe 15-20 rwhp.

But the "Cow Booster" adds no power. It just changes the throttle rate.

85scott

Before I buy Diablo or similar device, I want to know original specs first.
And what timing & fuel ratios come with the canned tune. Don't have to know them at every rpm, but at least peak tq & hp.

Before I get a cold air box, I'd want to know the max GM's airbox flows.
And what the aftermarket box flows under the same pressure.

Otherwise how would anyone know if what they bought does any good?

With cams, they tell you lift, duration, and timing events.
With headers, they list inside diameter & length.

Maybe I'm too much of a spec guy.
Been burned before with over promises though.

Back in the 90's had an 1989 Forumla 350 with hypertech chip & flowmaster muffler. Advertisers claimed 55 horsepower with both. And the only thing I got was annoying pinging without premium. And a noise change. No improvement whatsoever on the butt dyno. But knowing what I know now, I should have never expected more than 10 horsepower on premium from parts like that.

85scott

If I had an auto I'd get a tune for the faster & more precise shifts too.

Even if you gained nothing else, you probably get meaner 2nd gears.
And maybe a 3rd gear. Which always pleases the crowd.

TLS_Addict

Oh good god.

Lets be realistic here. What is your rear ratio and what is his? If his is not the 3.15 you have a CLEAR advatage. The booster isnt making you faster, its the gears.

There isnt crap difference 1/4 mile times with the A4 and 3.15 gears and the 2.73 gear A6. Maybea .1 but that is is.

0Chuck CoW

Here's the FACTS.

If you start at WOT off the line (MOST CAN'T for one reason or another), maintain WOT, and finish at WOT then

the CoW BOOSTER! would do very little for you.

If at any given time you're using less than 75%(more or less) throttle then you are getting an advantage from CoW BOOSTER!


Consistently...Same as always, there are too many of you "guessing" or thinking you understand what we did here.

Additionally, if you understand what CoW BOOSTER! actually is....then you might not understand it's effect on the vehicle.

For those of you that say CoW BOOSTER! does NOT add any power in the lower range of the throttle.....

PLEASE go back and re-think your words cause it's really extremely simple what's happening here.

PUSH PEDAL-----> Get MORE POWER than before relative to pedal.

Too many people have it an love it.
Chuck CoW