Anyone have experience with a Core Shifter in a C6? Love the look of the hurst stick but had a hurst in my C5 but did not like it in the C6.

 

hmm never seen this brand, everyone raves about mgw i have grown out of mine i have been thinking of getting rid of my mgw for something else easier to use.

 

Seems like there are a lot of folks who say the same about the difficulty of the MGW. I had a Hurst in my C5 (liked it by the way) and even tried it on the C6 but it rattled like hell.
The Core is made off a Hurst design but supposedly doesn't have the same spring setup internally.
No info on here at all except a guy in Longview has one on his C5 and likes it.
Just have to shell out the coin and see. Looks like they are in Sugar Land.
That's not far from the Woodlands???

 

The core shifter does not have the stiffness of the "hurst" shifter. Honestly, it feels very similar to an oem shifter with a more positive feel. I'll be pulling mine off and selling it soon. The reason - I've gone accustomed to the stiff, short throw of the mgw shifter, so I'm going to re-install it

 

Go with the MGW, with your stock shifter box. The new design does not rattle if you install it per the instructions (make sure that you cut the boot correctly as well).

Short throws, positive gating/ gear engagement feeling and just night and day more precise than the standard shifter that feels so loose and sloppy new, you swore that GM get the concept for it out of old tractor.

And to note, the notchy gear engagement feeling on the MGW when it slips into the gear is actual is a good thing since it slows your shifts down a hair (you can mod some of this out by shimming the detent on the trans out with a brass shim or two if it feels too stiff to you, hence anti-venom mod).

The clutch line on the Vet is littered with orifice restrictions that slows down the release of the clutch to soften the blow of a power shift/clutch dump (at the cost of the burning the clutch up), but causes the pedal problems as high RPMs. So when you go with a Tick or/and solid clutch non orifice restricted line to resolve the pedal hang problem at high RPMs, your are removing some, or all of this softening impact to the drive like from a hard clutch dump/power shift.



So on that note, you power shift now with the clutch no longer softening the blow to the drive line, and going to be be leaving a lot of your drive line behind you.

So again, if the engagement of the gear into position feels too stiff to you, you can shim out the detent on the trans to take out some of the positive gear engagement feeling to get quicker shifts, but don't go buck wild and remove it all. The positive in gear notch feel is a good thing to slow you down at touch shifting since sling shot power shifting is not go to end well in the end either way.

As for the anti venom mod,

Napa BK 704-1357 or Dorman 095-012 is your shim (just use one), and just need to pull the shifter detent plug, add a shim to the plug, and screw the detent plug back in.

 

i went to their website core-shifters dot COM cant find any contact info or location.

i had a hurst in my car before the mgw it was ok had less spring pressure side to side which is my complaint about the mgw , to much side to side effort.

 

You are aware that the internals of the MGW shifter are adjustable, and if you want less spring tension to the 3/ 4 gate position, you or MGW can loosen that up (or remove the tension to the 3 and 4 gate all together.

As for missing 2'nd gear shifts , most of the time it's that the stock gear shift **** that is installed cocked to your needed handing position to it, and as you think that you are pulling the shift **** straight back in line for the second gear due to the feel of the ****, your not pulling the lever straight back in the box, but instead into the 4 gear position. So to solve, this either clock the factory shift **** more clockwise so your feel to the **** palm shape is in line with the box needed motion for the shift, or just pick up the MGW race now that does not have a palm handing position to it instead.
Note, if you don't have the 1 to 4 bypassed, it's going to force you to shift to 4 when you get the dash light.

To add, I'm a track course racer, not a drag strip racer, so the MGW feels great to me in stock form once it gets a few days on it to seat it up from the factory adjustment. If you are a drag strip racer, then yes, the MGW shifter is going to feel too stiff, too spring loaded to the 3/4 gate, too notchy on gear engagement, too narrow between the gates, since most of the other cars that you may have been driven drag use, the shifter feed back was questionable at best from all the banging/sling shoot shifting from gear to gear that is may have seen or was designed for (what I call being a tractor feeling sloppy shifter since it not my style of driving/requirements for shifter feed back).

 

http://www.core-shifters.com/servlet...w-fdsh-/Detail

 

if you go to their site, it's interesting that they sell shifter cups and detent shift kits, as well as a shift ****. interesting site tho.

 

Some info on the owner. Looks like a Slumberger engineer. Oil patch technology which is pretty damn savy these days.

http://www.linkedin.com/pub/chris-rinehart/5/932/a69

 

I changed from the Hurst billet shifter which is spring loaded to the Core-Shifters design in my C5....should be the same in C6.

It uses Hurst parts in a custom base and the chrome Hurst stick, but without any additional spring loading.. It combines the best characteristics of the ease of shifting of the stock shifter with shortened throw...
When I order a C7, I am going to take this shifter out of my C5Z06 and put it in the C7.