My friend installed a supercharger and gave me his (Breathless performance). For nothing it was a great buy. A cold intake alone with no other mods is useless, you gain nothing. The only change is a reduction to net worth of $500 or so.

 

I just put a used Halltech mf103 on mine. I cant tell any difference but it did reduce my best 40-60mph time to 1 second flat from my previous best of 1.1 with just the headers. I bought it because it is suppose to help surging when you get a cam. I will say it keeps the IAT down a few more degrees than stock did. My MAF readings on the torque app are very high now compared to stock also.

Haven't been to the track yet to get a 1/4 time. I would say if you find a used intake it is almost worth it if you are doing other mods. at $500 save your money

 

Very,Very Possible..but I Like it

This is the dyno readings prior to the Vararam and after Vararam plus the tune

 

Try to locate a used Halltech Super Bee II and beehive. I ran one for 4 years on my Z06 and was very happy with it, no problems. Sound was better and butt dyno felt better so I think it was worth a few hp. No matter I wanted one and was happy with it. Considerable bad press on the forum for Vararam, poor quality, water ingestion, etc. Do a search.

 

No:I put the K&N on & about a year later i had a cam installed & then had it tuned.It ran great with just the K&N without a tune,no problems with the Air/fuel ratio.Like many have said the ECM will ajust for it...

 

Check out the Blue Attack filter for your stock intake before you spend a lot of $$$$ on a complete systrem....

 

Your engine will breathe SLIGHTLY better but will suck in more dirt.

 

[QUOTE="Dewayne'sC6;1586102488"]I went with the Vararam CAI and had a tune and picked up 30hp with the combo. Very pleased with mine [/QUO

Was that 30 hp verified on a dyno?

 

At closed loop (cruise) the ECM will adjust the fuel trims and add more fuel to compensate for additional airflow. However, positive LTFT will carry over into open loop (WOT) were the A/F values are set in the tune. The stock tune A/F is already rich, now more fuel has been added. Yes, the CAI might increase air flow, but it's only guess work until it's tuned. Some CAI's are designed with this in mind and change the MAF read area to compensate. To optimize any change in fuel metering a tune is needed.

 

Regardless of any HP gains or losses for a CAI shown on a dyno, they don't directly transfer to gains or losses on the street.

The only way to measure power differentials anywhere close to accurately is at the dragstrip. There are even variables with that method which must be accounted for and compensations made.

Dynos are tuning tools that record power at WOT. Anytime you're at WOT on the street, your butt dyno calibration is in direct relationship to your expectations from the cost of the mods.

 

I took a Z06 intake and modified it into a "CAI". On my "stock" GS my best went from 12.31 to 12.01. My car drove, idle, etc., the same as when I bought it. I'm sure most have seen my modified Z06 setup. If I were to "buy" an aftermarket CAI the one below reminds me of how mine is setup which works pretty well for "me". Because of where the filter is located with no snorkel going to it the one below is a lot less likely to suck up water IMO.

PS: Oh, and any other "bolt-on" LS3's (including the lighter narrow bodys) with the "same" type of mods. i.e. Headers, CAI, Tune & Tires on the C6 fast list all fall in behind me in both ET & "MPH". I'm sure a lot are running the big HP snorkel intake.


http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...%20-%20YouTube

 

I'm curious, were atmospheric conditions the same for both runs, particulary ambient air temp?

 

I "feel" the conditions were close. I do not have a weather station. The runs were within a week or so of one another.

The reason that I made the CAI modification is because I went out in the third round running for a "Wally" (pi$$ed me off ) due to the sensor retarding the timing from underhood heat.

 

Yes sir..Before and after... The Dyno is posted 5 posts in front of your post

 

I did it for looks only......no performance or mileage gains to noted. After all, the rev gage rarely goes over 3K.

 

After getting a very slight surge ~60-65mph in 6th with the stock intake and propped open shroud on my '13, I decided to research what is out there. The Hitachi MAF is much more sensitive to turbulent air than the old style. On my '06, a K&N Aircharger and propped shroud worked great. Not so much with the new MAF. Anyway, I bought the newest Halltech MF105S Wednesday after talking with Jim Hall. Dyno results show 15+ rwhp and the IAT within about 5 degrees of ambient under way. The Beehive shroud covering and protecting it from underhood temps is a great idea. It appears that the engine will lean considerably, important here at 7000' where the stock runs very rich--especially under wot. GM Performance did a dyno run which showed a solid 15hp gain, as well with the older 103 version. Will give some feedback once I get it installed. They aren't cheap, but I did a lot of research before spending the money and everything leads me to believe it was the right choice. With Bullets and the Halltech, I feel it will easily add 30-35 crank hp. Coincidentally, just what the C7 with NPP makes--and 200 pounds lighter on my narrow body. There is a lot of hype on bolt on adders for hp, but the Halltech and the B&B Bullets back it up with hard numbers and reviews from respected sources.

 

The Airaid system MUCH improves the stock air intake systems on LS1 and LS2 engines. Not so much so on LS3 and up engines. The LS1 and LS2 systems were much more restrictive than the later systems.


Tom

 

Only "performance" mod

 

My08 had a Halltech on it when I bought the car so I can't tell you about before and after results, but the car runs perfect with it.

 

zactly....