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CAGS Advice

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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 09:16 AM
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Default CAGS Advice

Hello everyone . Now that I finally had a chance to drive my 2005 C6 that I bought in January , I find that the 1st to 4th skip is very annoying in stop and go traffic (especially in hilly Pittsburgh).
I see that there are many websites that sell a CAGS eliminator.
Who has done this ? What is the best way to defeat it ? (without CEL light) .
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 09:52 AM
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I changed my fuse out the first month, on my '13, no problems 5 min. job. I bought a modified fuse online & swapped it out inside the fuse box next to the engine, NO error lights. can't remember where I bought it from, (probably a vendor here on this forum) but was very reasonable. came with easy directions.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 11:02 AM
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I just went out an purchased a smart fuse ($2 for a pack of 6). Using my car battery charger, I shorted out the smart fuse and then replaced the CAGS fuse with the blown smart fuse. Went out for a drive and even though the 1-->4 shift light came one I was still able to shift into 2nd gear versus being forced into 4th.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 12:32 PM
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If it bothers you, do as Homer3D says. If the light in the smart fuse ever burns out, CAGS will start working again - just put in another blown fuse. I also live in hilly Pittsburgh and practically never have had the CAGS engage, because I tend to rev the engine higher when on a hill than on level ground (which, as you say, basically doesn't exist here).
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 06:10 PM
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Here you go,
http://xse.com/leres/z06/cags.html
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 06:37 PM
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Default Trans solenoid

On my 13 GS I used a JEGS lockout bypass. It cost about $20 for the transmission mounted resistor connected to the solenoid plug. I took it down to the local gas station and it cost $20 to install it. I would have installed it myself but the car is so low my jack will not fit under the GS. I prefer the plug method because the resistor gives the correct feedback to the computer, the the lockout solenoid has been correctly activated. I think it's important to keep the computer free of target codes because some codes can cause problems that seem totally unrelated to other computer generated problems.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Dano523






This I.M.O. is the best & easiest method 5 min. D.I.Y. job
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 06:20 PM
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Ii purchased the fuse type from corvette mods and installed it on my 05 In over a year and no problems with it. Took less than 5 minutes to install. Cost about 15-20 bucks if I remember correctly.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 10:06 PM
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I also found the CAGS very annoying and installed a CAGS eliminator during my first month of ownership. The hardest part is that you have to get the back of the car up in the air to install it, but once you get over that hurdle it only takes 5 minutes to install and solves the problem with no adverse affects.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jwf
I also found the CAGS very anying and installed a CAGS eliminator during my first month of ownership. The hardest part is that you have to get the back of the car up in the air to install it, but once you get over that hurdle it only takes 5 minutes to install and solves the problem with no adverse affects.

No need to get under the car anymore on the C6's. The CAGS no longer shares a fuse with other systems like it did on the C5 that made you put the resistor at the trans, so pulling the working 10 amp fuse and installing the resistor fuse at the fuse block under the hood, up line of the trans solenoid plug, does the same as what the C5 CAGS bypass resistor plug at the trans did before.

Again, with the C5, there where other systems using the fuse, but with the C6, fuse 10 is just for the manual transmission solenoid, so it is faster way to install the resistor in line (replace the 10 amp fuse with a resistor type fuse instead) so the system gets voltage feed back to still thinks that it working to not throw codes.
Note: the resistor allows the system to get voltage feed back to think that the fuse is still good, but the resistor will not allow enough voltage to get through the line to active the lock out solenoid.


If you are handy with a soldering gun, the mod costs less than a buck.


Last edited by Dano523; Mar 14, 2014 at 10:31 PM.
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