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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 10:06 AM
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Ok, I have had my '07 lowered on the stock bolts now for a little over a year, but it just seems like there is still to much gap at thge rear, the front is not bad, but maybe it could be a little less.

Here is my question. I know about cutting the bushings but do I need to cut the same (either 1 or 2) from both front and rear. I have read that I must maintain the stagger, so if I cut one in the front and two in the rear would that cause any issues?

Final question. I plan to do this with the bolts installed, the rears are easy to get at, the fronts a little tighter. I have heard that a hacksaw blad will do the trick and also a band saw that is used for cutting PVC pipe is also a good tool. Any advice?

Here are a few pictures I took on how it sits now.

Overall:


Front:


Rear:


Rear Bushing:
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 10:10 AM
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A wire cutter used to cut PVC pipe is good too...just saws it clean off.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by LFZ
A wire cutter used to cut PVC pipe is good too...just saws it clean off.
That is the band saw I was referring to. Can you advice me on my other questions?
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BWF07
That is the band saw I was referring to. Can you advice me on my other questions?
Oh...got ya!

As far as cutting 1-2 ribs...I'd cut 1 rib off the rear first and see how it looks. If you think your front needs to go lower, cut 1 rib off the front as well. Cutting 2 ribs off the rear and 1 rib off the front doesn't hurt anything IMO. I have lowered several C6s this way and with stock shocks, and yes...it does shorten the travel, but doesn't affect the handling in any significant manner when it comes to 100% street driving. The C6s can get alway with a lower rear more than what most think...

Some here will say that you're going to ruin your car and and it will swerve off the road and kill you if you do this....so look out.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 03:50 PM
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Thanks for your input.

Anyone else cut their bushings front and rear. I have the Z51 option, will that effect the overall height (not letting it down as much as others may have)?

I am thinking of two ribs in the rear and one in the front. Or just go with the one in the rear and leave the front as is.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 04:00 PM
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i cut mine originally but at the second rib stance was great. but the rubber came off after awhile and i had metal on metal. i went and got lowering bolts they are only like $50 your going to want to do alignment anyway when your done adjusting the ride height. so if you cant install the lowering bolts the alignment shop should be able to.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by smurfkiller
i cut mine originally but at the second rib stance was great. but the rubber came off after awhile and i had metal on metal. i went and got lowering bolts they are only like $50 your going to want to do alignment anyway when your done adjusting the ride height. so if you cant install the lowering bolts the alignment shop should be able to.
Thanks, but I have never figured out the aftermarket lowering bolts. I mean, the stock ride height bolts are backed out completely, so why the aftermarket bolts. Simply because they have just a small rubber bushing. I read somewhere that they are longer, which I don't understand. It would seem that if they are longer it only helps if you want the car higher and you would turn them so they extend more so they push the spring away from the lower control arm.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 05:19 PM
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How can you stand all the scraping? My stock setting scraped on every imperfection in the road. I certainly would not want the car any lower. in twelve thousand miles went through the front air dam assembly, rocker panel had to be repainted after scraping a speed bump. Looks aren't everything.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry/car
How can you stand all the scraping? My stock setting scraped on every imperfection in the road. I certainly would not want the car any lower. in twelve thousand miles went through the front air dam assembly, rocker panel had to be repainted after scraping a speed bump. Looks aren't everything.
I live in Florida, so I don't have to worry about the potholes and and the uneven streets that you have up north. Right now I am lowered all the way on the stock bolts and I don't have an issue. Oh I scrap the front air dam, but that is common on all Corvette's.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BWF07
I live in Florida, so I don't have to worry about the potholes and and the uneven streets that you have up north. Right now I am lowered all the way on the stock bolts and I don't have an issue. Oh I scrap the front air dam, but that is common on all Corvette's.
Never had pothole issues. Mostly dips in the road for water run off at intersections, then the darn speed bumps. I learned quickly the stagger attack on road imperfections, sometimes you just can't transverse the imperfection at an angle. Your car looks good the way it currently sits, I wouldn't go lower than what the stock bolts provide.

Last edited by Larry/car; Jun 10, 2014 at 05:36 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry/car
How can you stand all the scraping? My stock setting scraped on every imperfection in the road. I certainly would not want the car any lower. in twelve thousand miles went through the front air dam assembly, rocker panel had to be repainted after scraping a speed bump. Looks aren't everything.
You just have to know how to drive a lowered car ... It's definitely different and worth it for the looks/performance.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 07:14 PM
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My car is lowered on stock bolts also. Lowered all the way on front with no cut, back lowered all the way and 2 ribs cut off bushing. I add some grease under the bushings every 2 years or so. No problems since 07 and I just past 127,000 miles.

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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by wayback
My car is lowered on stock bolts also. Lowered all the way on front with no cut, back lowered all the way and 2 ribs cut off bushing. I add some grease under the bushings every 2 years or so. No problems since 07 and I just past 127,000 miles.

That is about what I am looking for. Thanks for the post. Gllad to hear that you cut two ribs in the back and nothing up front. The back appears to be the easiest to cut with them still ion the car.

What did you use to cut your bushings?
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by LFZ
You just have to know how to drive a lowered car ... It's definitely different and worth it for the looks/performance.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 08:42 PM
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You will need to do an alignment if you don't you will wear out tires quickly . Many thoughts about this on here. What size are your rears, 345 ?
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 3whit
You will need to do an alignment if you don't you will wear out tires quickly . Many thoughts about this on here. What size are your rears, 345 ?
325's
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 09:15 PM
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Running 345 on my Base coupe , I just did a z06 body conversion and have not lowered it at all and I seem to have less of a space than yours . They fill the space nicely ,and they are steam rollers .
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by BWF07
That is about what I am looking for. Thanks for the post. Gllad to hear that you cut two ribs in the back and nothing up front. The back appears to be the easiest to cut with them still ion the car.

What did you use to cut your bushings?
I used a hacksaw blade. Wrapped duct tape on one side for a handle. Easy peasy.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by wayback
I used a hacksaw blade. Wrapped duct tape on one side for a handle. Easy peasy.
A buddy of mine did his with his wife's serrated kitchen knife...washed it and put it right back in the drawer afterwards.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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If you buy lowering bolts do not get the $50 set of 4. They are crap, trust me. Get the set that is $100 for 4. I forgot the name right at this minute but that is what I have now and so far they are holding up good.
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