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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 01:30 PM
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want to buy 2 stage catch can that is easy to drain or check level of oil, at the best price. Any suggestions. Tried to do a search but nothing came up. I’m sure I’ve seen info on this before but now that I need it I can’t find it.
thanks
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 01:48 PM
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I've seen the Elite brand on here over and over, they look fantastic and come with brackets for a clean install. Search Elite catch can install on your browser, not the forum search, and click on the forum articles, there is an install article there also...
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 04:05 PM
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I have an Elite Engineering catch can, looks great. But, you have to remove it from the bracket in order to empty it, or check the oil level.

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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 50 4Ever
I have an Elite Engineering catch can, looks great. But, you have to remove it from the bracket in order to empty it, or check the oil level.

This sucks.

I am in the process now of determining which CC I wanted. I was going with the Elite.

Not sure I want the hassle of removing it from the bracket. Dropping bolts/nuts and losing them in the engine area.

Other alternatives that are more user friendly?...
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 50 4Ever
I have an Elite Engineering catch can, looks great. But, you have to remove it from the bracket in order to empty it, or check the oil level.
Not on a GS.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:30 PM
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Bottom of the elite catch can unscrews to dump it out without having to pull it from the mount, but here is the fly in the soup with that single catch can.





The Dirty side is the vacuum of the intake off the block that pulls vapor/oil in when the throttle is semi closed since it behind the TB. This is what the Elite catch can catches the oil from.

The clean side is the vapor off the valve cover's and is draw in during WOT since the vapor are dump in front of the TB (what the catch can is not catching).

Missing from all the single catch can's , dual separate chambers so they will catch both the oil from the dirty side, and the oil from the clean side to prevent oil from getting into the intake at all.

Bluntly, here is a dual can set up to catch both the dirty side, and the clean side. The can closest to the water pump is used for the dirty side, while the can farther away from the water pump is used for the clean side.





Dirty side connection points on the motor that you see the braided lines connected to, hence low nipple on the motor out of the block, through the catch can, and the high nipple back into the intake manifold after the TB. If you look at the TB, not that no hose has been installed on it yet, so not sure how he is going to address the clean side.







So yes, do like the ease of use of the Elite to remove the bottom and dump the caught oil, plus the design, but when you price in for a dual system, gets spendy real quick.

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/d...nting-bracket/

Or you can get the single catch can for the dirty side, and a clean air side system that replaced the oil cap for a little cheaper.
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e...ing-catch-can/

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/c...oil-separator/

Last edited by Dano523; Dec 31, 2014 at 07:54 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Boomer111
This sucks.

I am in the process now of determining which CC I wanted. I was going with the Elite.

Not sure I want the hassle of removing it from the bracket. Dropping bolts/nuts and losing them in the engine area.

Other alternatives that are more user friendly?...
I forgot to mention this is on an 08 Z06. Sorry...
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 50 4Ever
I forgot to mention this is on an 08 Z06. Sorry...

Same goes, and you will only be catching the dirty side with a single can only.


Go to line 9 and notice that nothing is catching the clean side (hence top right hand corner hose in photo for 8, that connects to the TB nipple on photo 9 that has nothing connected to it in that photo).
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/t..._Catch_Can.pdf


And again, trace the hoses on this photo since you can see both the dirty side and the clean side are both being caught.



To add, look at this photo, and you can see the vent out of the block (valley cover) and the vent out of the left valve cover.

Last edited by Dano523; Dec 31, 2014 at 08:12 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 08:18 PM
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Non-forced induction go with a Elite Engineering can. If you plan on going forced induction any time in the future get a Mighty Mouse. You need a vented can or some other form of venting if you pressurize the manifold at all.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 08:38 PM
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Well all good information and like most things in life things get complicated real quick.

Now I need to determine the value of the oil separator on the clean side. I am not really a high rev driver so it sounds like this second unit is not as necessary as the dirty side can.

Thinking with my limited retirement wallet.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 09:01 PM
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Educate me. Why would you need a catch can in the first place much less two?
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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To keep oil out of the combustion process.

Wanting to keep the valves and pistons cleaner.

My intake does have oil present.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 09:27 PM
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I used their Baffled oil catch can & just made my own bracket and bolted it to the fender wall. It's easy to un-screw it from the bottom. I've checked it a couple times & it's pretty dry so far. (It's on my 2013 Grand Sport) Maybe I need some F/I to get the crankcase gases moving...?

(http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-b...catch-can.html)








Last edited by dmoneychris; Dec 31, 2014 at 09:30 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Bottom of the elite catch can unscrews to dump it out without having to pull it from the mount, but here is the fly in the soup with that single catch can.





The Dirty side is the vacuum of the intake off the block that pulls vapor/oil in when the throttle is semi closed since it behind the TB. This is what the Elite catch can catches the oil from.

The clean side is the vapor off the valve cover's and is draw in during WOT since the vapor are dump in front of the TB (what the catch can is not catching).

Missing from all the single catch can's , dual separate chambers so they will catch both the oil from the dirty side, and the oil from the clean side to prevent oil from getting into the intake at all.

Bluntly, here is a dual can set up to catch both the dirty side, and the clean side. The can closest to the water pump is used for the dirty side, while the can farther away from the water pump is used for the clean side.





Dirty side connection points on the motor that you see the braided lines connected to, hence low nipple on the motor out of the block, through the catch can, and the high nipple back into the intake manifold after the TB. If you look at the TB, not that no hose has been installed on it yet, so not sure how he is going to address the clean side.







So yes, do like the ease of use of the Elite to remove the bottom and dump the caught oil, plus the design, but when you price in for a dual system, gets spendy real quick.

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/d...nting-bracket/

Or you can get the single catch can for the dirty side, and a clean air side system that replaced the oil cap for a little cheaper.
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e...ing-catch-can/

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/c...oil-separator/
This is a great explanation. I always get the dirty side catch can. The clean side is probably overkill, since from what I have read it is primarily during WOT correct? and it is such a small amount of vapor it probably is not necessary unless your drag racing your car. But I think for 100 bucks more I will pick up what appears to be a simple change of oil cap and connection for the clean side from elite engineering too.

THANKS

Last edited by Cor430vette; Dec 31, 2014 at 11:12 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 11:07 PM
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Here is what they say on their clean side system, seems like an easy solution!

"Simply installs as a direct replacement for your stock Oil Fill Cap allowing you to delete and replace the stock OEM hose.

At 1/2 the cost of the plastic hollow GM unit, our aluminum clean-side separator incorporates an internal coalescing material. Simply unscrew the top for a quick inspection or cleaning.

This is a direct replacement for your stock Oil Fill Cap. Comes with vacuum caps and fittings if needed to connect to your intake air inlet tube."

Just ordered my system will run you 289 shipped for clean side and dirty side ...I know its allot of money but its a 1 time cost and it definitely works. I used to own a 2008 and ran the dirty side on it and caught oil in it all the time....

Last edited by Cor430vette; Dec 31, 2014 at 11:34 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 11:21 PM
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thanks for all the help, I went with the VMS baffled and filtered catch can $78.98. See what happens.
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 12:20 AM
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Mighty Mouse!
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 05:16 AM
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I think he comes on Saturdays at 8;30 am. Strong little rodent isn’t he
??
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Cor430vette
This is a great explanation. I always get the dirty side catch can. The clean side is probably overkill, since from what I have read it is primarily during WOT correct? and it is such a small amount of vapor it probably is not necessary unless your drag racing your car. But I think for 100 bucks more I will pick up what appears to be a simple change of oil cap and connection for the clean side from elite engineering too.

THANKS
Vacuum on the dirty side at less than full throttle due to the intake nipple location into the in take manifold has a higher vacuum draw. At wide open throttle, this dirty side vacuum is lost for the most part, and the vacuum to draw in, is now in front of the TB in that air stream instead.

The clean side is called the clean side since it's the location of the nipple exit out of the valve cover top (both exists/ locations are baffled to try to trap oil out of the gases), but both locations can cause oil into the intake manifold since oil can get past the OEM baffles.
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by garye
thanks for all the help, I went with the VMS baffled and filtered catch can $78.98. See what happens.
Will work, but you want two of them, one for the dirty side, and the other for the clean side, so you are catching the oil that can pass by either the dirty, or clean side baffles.

And again, how you are going to pipe the two catch cans.



Or, you can just forgo all the catch cans, and install a low level Meth kit instead. Not only will you pick up power from the cooling effect, but will flush the oil away from anything down steam of the meth nozzle, and keep the inside of the engine steam cleaned shiny as well.

Last edited by Dano523; Jan 1, 2015 at 11:45 AM.
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