I just got my new to me 07 C6 Z51 w/ 15k on the odo. She's a cream puff. Going through the car like we all do when we first get it (and it snowed here the night before so I can't drive it) I found the clutch reservoir empty. The short drive from unloading off the truck to the garage the clutch felt funny but thought it was a learning curve. I plan to clean out the debris in the bottom and do the ranger method to top up with Dot 4 Syn. I do not see any dripping on the floor, but like stated it wasn't driven far nor was there enough left to leave a puddle.
Has anyone had this happen and found that after topping it up all was good?

 

Fill and check for leaks. Drive the car a while and check again. I would do a full service ( Trans, Engine Oil +Filter, Breaks,Battery, Power steering,Ect. Get with your local Chev dealer and have them look up your Vin # to see the service history on your Vette. Good luck and have fun.

 

Either a leak or badly neglected for a long period of time. Hopefully just neglected so that refilling and working the air out of the system will get it back to proper working condition.

 

Try not to let what appears to be crud get into the system when you clean it, it looks to me like the previous owner didn't keep up with maintenance items i would go through and check everything, i'm sure once you clean it and do the ranger method everything will be ok. Congrats and Good Luck with the car!

 

From the picture, it doesn't appear the level is completely empty. There should not be any air in the system, hopefully. Clean out the goop and flush. If peddle is soft, you may need to purge system. Not an easy job since the valve is not easy to access. As mentioned, replace all fluids that have not been changed for you.

 

You should do a search on the "Ranger Method" for clutch fluid.

You can use the search function here on the Forum.

The fluid is dirty, regular changes will keep the fluid golden and the clutch working properly. it is an easy maintenance item but should be done with a schedule.

The search will explain... http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

 

It might be fine, I had a buddy buy a 2013 last year with only 8,000 miles on it and the clutch reservoir on his looked just like yours. No clue why the previous owner had it that low, but he checked when installing headers and it wasn't leaking at all. Been fine since filling it up.

 

I would fill the reservoir and bleed the clutch properly.

 

Hmm, let's go thru the numbers: potentially, an 8-year old car (produced in '06), one or more owners, 15K miles means not much driving---lot of sitting, dirty and empty clutch reservoir. Otherwise, a beautiful car, meaning cosmetically taken care of, and very little driving. If you have the records to dispute that conclusion that would be fine.

To me, that means just from years alone, everything needs to be looked at mechanically and fluid-wise. That would start with maybe the three most obvious: clutch fluid, radiator fluid and brake fluid---I'd replace all three and not next summer but before the next time you drive it for any drive of substance--you define what that means (for me, it'd be anything over a half hour's drive).

Then, since tires have a tendency to age in place (beyond their useful life even w. lots of tread), I'd start planning for an eventual change of tires. I'd also look into a good alignment, assuming it, too, hasn't been done for quite some time if ever. I'd be surprised a little if the car batt. is original but it might be---if it is, start planning for a new one and a batt. maintainer. I'd also be surprised if your fobs are orig. batts. but no matter since it's hard to tell, I'd replace them or get replacements and stick 'em in your drawer.

Happy driving!

 

In your second photo the remaining fluid looks clean to me. Perhaps the previous owner was getting the car ready for sale, performed the Ranger method but in his or her haste forgot to refill the reservoir. In the meantime do as others have suggested by refilling the reservoir to the proper level and drive and recheck often. Everything can be made right with a little time and patience.
Congrats on your new purchase. She looks like a beauty!

 

 

I've never had a standard, but as a clutch 'wears down' doesn't the fluid need to be topped off?

 

Thanks for all the quick responses. Being my first Corvette, I've learned a lot here already.

It's a one owner car from New Jersey. I'm pretty sure that driven less than 2K average/year it was a garage queen and it shows. That's about to change!

I just did the Ranger method several times and it's cleared up. No visible leaks after +/- 200 pumps on the pedal. So I'll keep my eye on it and my fingers crossed.

I do plan to change the rest of the fluids shortly, just waiting for it to warm up a little. The brake fluid looks a little dark.

The tires were replaced at some point with Continental Extreme DWS. If you're familiar with these tires all the letters are still visible on the tread. Interesting concept. Not my choice of rubber, but I'm sure I'll wear them down quick enough with a few sessions at Putnam and Mid-Ohio.

Battery seems good. I have it on a Battery Minder (not tender) and it didn't take long to go into maintenance mode.

It only came with one key/fob for #2 driver. I'll be finding a second one shortly.

As far as MODS I only plan to do CAI and exhaust with a tune. I picked up a set of almost new Z06 NPPs while I was in Miami from a member here. Still learning on what headers and mid pipes to use - to cat or no cat... But it will be 3" front to back (to where they choke down at the mufflers - can anyone explain GM's logic on that?)

C'mon Spring!

 

Look for the wear dating On the tire. It is located on the side wall of the tire facing the center of the car.

6 years old and it is time to replace, especially in a high performance vehicle.

I would change all fluids period, leaving the power steering alone.

I drive 5,000 yearly miles and perform the Ranger method maybe 3-4 times a year. Fluid is always golden and I need to just replace the resvior fluid and I do not even pump the pedal anymore. I am not hard on the car with my driving habits.

The axle over pipe being 2 1/2 in. does not impede exhaust flow because the gases have cooled down by the time they reach this point let alone the muffler.

It is the long tubes that need to be flowing well and the X pipe can help with flow as well.

 

Great post. Top of my list,too

 

Mine was like that. I just neglected it being that I drive it so little. I rangered it and haven't had a problem since. You should be ok

 

I have read of similar siituations before. I believe there is a pipe from the clutch resovoir down to the cylinder and as long as there is fluid in this line you will be ok. Just clean out the debris carefully (so the crud does not ge into the line) and fill with new fluid. Then check it regularly and do the ranger method periodically and you'll probably be fine.

 

Clutch line is self bleeding, so the ranger method of fluid change will solve any air still in the lines.


As for leaks, two major sources will be master and slave cylinders, then you have the fitting of the lines to both, and a quick connector coupling between the two cylinders in the middle.

Just do the ranger method to get the fluid clear'sih and keep it clean, and if the system is leaking badly, should be pretty easy to find where its leaking from.

If the leak is at the slave, will be a puddle of fluid at the back of the bell housing area.

If the master or quick coupling, pretty easy to find, and you get to both through the driver side wheel well back side access port.

Tick master cylinder install directions, and will show you which panel needs to be removed so you can look at the master and quick connector, and even the reserve tank tube to see if the leaks are coming from any of theses.

http://www.tickperformance.com/conte...structions.pdf

Ranger fluid change to get it clean,

To add here, get a fuel line connector disconnected tool, disconnect the fuel line flex line through the drivers rail cover to the hard line at the fire wall , remove the rail cover off the drivers side of the motor (will slip past the disconnector hose), and look for a clutch remote bleeder line tucked up on top of the valve cover. The reason for this, some of the remote bleeder lines are known for leaking at the connection back down at the slave cylinder. where they are screwed onto it The end of the after market bleeder line will look like this if installed, and may be the source of the leak back at the slave cylinder if one is installed.


It replaces the bleeder on the slave so the system can be powder bleed without having to crawl under the car.


Note, if you do have a after market remote bleeder line, then use it instead of the Ranger method to power flush out the old clutch fluid. The end of the hose has a check valve on it, so loosen the end of the hose, shove it in 2 litter Pepsi bottle, then pump the clutch pedal while keeping the reserve tank for the clutch fluid full.
Note: get the reserve tank clean to begin with with paper towel before you put new fluid in it. Also, don't forget to wipe down the cap rubber piece as well.

 

Great info - Thanks! I did the Ranger today and got it cleared up. I will keep an eye on it to see if it leaks. Hopefully I won't need this info. I saved it just in case.

 

To add, when you put the cap back on, make sure that the rubber piece is folded back up inside the cap (and that you do have the rubber piece to begin with).

With the fluid at the full mark, when you put the cap back on, the bottom of the folded rubber piece will be at the top of the fluid to keep air out of the tank.

When the fluid is pulled down by you pumping on the pedal, or it leaking down, the rubber piece is the cap will unfold to keep air out of the reserve tank.

Hence the fluid will pull the moisture out of the air to contaminate the fluid, and the rubber piece is a key piece to keep air out out of the tank.

As for fluid swaps if you don't have a leak, going to guess that in a week of driving, the fluid will be black again, so forgo the pumps from this point onward, and just start swapping the fluid in the tank to clean fluid instead (driving the car will do the pedal pumps for you, and in a few fluid changes, should be good with the fluid staying clean for around 4 tank fill of pretro before you want to change it out again).

As for contaminants in the fluid, the stuff that is floating on the top is rubber from the master and cylinder seals from normal'ish where, while the stuff in the bottom of the tank is clutch dust.

The clutch dust comes from the slave cylinder due to the slave not having forward swipers lips on the seal. The front of the slave cylinder gets clutch dust on it, and when you push the pedal in, the slave seal is pushed over the dust on the cylinder walls, and this allows the clutch dust to be pulled back past the seal and enter back into the fluid.