2005 corvette clutch
#2
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#3
Team Owner
Here: Read all the material, watch the video and understand what is happening then do the procedure to your car until the fluid is clean. Then repeat as needed to keep the fluid looking nice, doesn't have to be perfect all the time.
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
Edit: You didn't mention mileage on your car but consider it's 9-10 years old. If you bought pre-owned and don't know the history, it's possible the master cylinder is going out from wear and gunk in the fluid. Just keep that in mind if the fluid change doesn't work.
Last edited by RicK T; 02-11-2015 at 04:52 PM. Reason: add thought
#4
Here: Read all the material, watch the video and understand what is happening then do the procedure to your car until the fluid is clean. Then repeat as needed to keep the fluid looking nice, doesn't have to be perfect all the time.
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
Edit: You didn't mention mileage on your car but consider it's 9-10 years old. If you bought pre-owned and don't know the history, it's possible the master cylinder is going out from wear and gunk in the fluid. Just keep that in mind if the fluid change doesn't work.
It only has 46,000 miles on it and I have already flushed the clutch fluid out and put new in. I've done everything in the video.
#5
Going to take a few flushes until you get the fluid in the bottom of the line cleaned out.
If once you get the fluid clean and it stays clean, so long as you are not loosing fluid, then it either the master cylinder, or the clutch going south instead. If you are loosing fluid out of the tank, then bank that it the slave cylinder that is hemorrhaging the fluid out, and should be able to see that fluid under the car at the back of the bell housing location.
Is there any rhyme or reason to the problem/when it happens, or it is just a randomly happening instead.
Also, how mechanically inclined are you?
The master cylinder is easy enough to pull, and even pull apart to see if it's the problem child. The cylinder walls on the unit are plastic, and with the plunger in hand to see the conditions of the plunger/ seals too, will be able to tell very quickly if the unit is gone of not.
This will walk you through pulling and reinstall the master cylinder.
http://www.tickperformance.com/conte...structions.pdf
As for a OEM master cylinder rebuild kit, may be able to find one, but chances are the cylinder walls are scorned instead, and it replacement time for the master cylinder.
$100.08 for a new master cylinder
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/c...aster-cylinder
If the master cylinder checks out fine, then you know that the problem is in the clutch itself, and time to either pony up for a new clutch, or time to drop the drive line so you can replace the clutch yourself.
Note, the OEM LS-2 clutch is outdated , and the OEM replacement clutch is the one out of the LS-7 (so the OEM replacement clutch is a upgrade in its self). When the clutch is replaced, so is the Slave cylinder,flywheel, pilot bearing, slave cylinder, throw out bearing, clutch disc and pressure plate as well.
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/a...ine/clutch-cat
Last edited by Dano523; 02-11-2015 at 10:00 PM.
#6
Going to take a few flushes until you get the fluid in the bottom of the line cleaned out.
If once you get the fluid clean and it stays clean, so long as you are not loosing fluid, then it either the master cylinder, or the clutch going south instead. If you are loosing fluid out of the tank, then bank that it the slave cylinder that is hemorrhaging the fluid out, and should be able to see that fluid under the car at the back of the bell housing location.
Is there any rhyme or reason to the problem/when it happens, or it is just a randomly happening instead.
Also, how mechanically inclined are you?
The master cylinder is easy enough to pull, and even pull apart to see if it's the problem child. The cylinder walls on the unit are plastic, and with the plunger in hand to see the conditions of the plunger/ seals too, will be able to tell very quickly if the unit is gone of not.
This will walk you through pulling and reinstall the master cylinder.
http://www.tickperformance.com/conte...structions.pdf
As for a OEM master cylinder rebuild kit, may be able to find one, but chances are the cylinder walls are scorned instead, and it replacement time for the master cylinder.
$100.08 for a new master cylinder
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/c...aster-cylinder
If the master cylinder checks out fine, then you know that the problem is in the clutch itself, and time to either pony up for a new clutch, or time to drop the drive line so you can replace the clutch yourself.
Note, the OEM LS-2 clutch is outdated , and the OEM replacement clutch is the one out of the LS-7 (so the OEM replacement clutch is a upgrade in its self). When the clutch is replaced, so is the Slave cylinder,flywheel, pilot bearing, slave cylinder, throw out bearing, clutch disc and pressure plate as well.
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/a...ine/clutch-cat
If once you get the fluid clean and it stays clean, so long as you are not loosing fluid, then it either the master cylinder, or the clutch going south instead. If you are loosing fluid out of the tank, then bank that it the slave cylinder that is hemorrhaging the fluid out, and should be able to see that fluid under the car at the back of the bell housing location.
Is there any rhyme or reason to the problem/when it happens, or it is just a randomly happening instead.
Also, how mechanically inclined are you?
The master cylinder is easy enough to pull, and even pull apart to see if it's the problem child. The cylinder walls on the unit are plastic, and with the plunger in hand to see the conditions of the plunger/ seals too, will be able to tell very quickly if the unit is gone of not.
This will walk you through pulling and reinstall the master cylinder.
http://www.tickperformance.com/conte...structions.pdf
As for a OEM master cylinder rebuild kit, may be able to find one, but chances are the cylinder walls are scorned instead, and it replacement time for the master cylinder.
$100.08 for a new master cylinder
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/c...aster-cylinder
If the master cylinder checks out fine, then you know that the problem is in the clutch itself, and time to either pony up for a new clutch, or time to drop the drive line so you can replace the clutch yourself.
Note, the OEM LS-2 clutch is outdated , and the OEM replacement clutch is the one out of the LS-7 (so the OEM replacement clutch is a upgrade in its self). When the clutch is replaced, so is the Slave cylinder,flywheel, pilot bearing, slave cylinder, throw out bearing, clutch disc and pressure plate as well.
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/a...ine/clutch-cat
I have a Car rental company in Memphis TN and have to keep around 150 cars up and running so I know some stuff about cars. I do not drive my corvette but about once a week and that's when it happens. I have been driving it everyday lately and it did it the first 2 days but it did not do it this morning. I always let my car warm up always change the oil on time and every routine thing..... I am going to flush it out again tomorrow.Thanks for the help guys!
Last edited by 2005corvette901; 02-12-2015 at 05:44 PM.