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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 08:08 PM
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Default Ceramic Brakes

I was at a car show today and a gentlemen told me that you can't put ceramic brakes on your car unless you have new rotors. You can't put them on your car with the rotors that you now have. Has anyone else heard of this? Thanks
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 08:12 PM
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Not true.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 09:15 PM
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Why do people say stupid things? Of course you can.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 09:37 PM
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I use a 00 Scotch Brite pad and rub off the old pad material from the rotor. Spray it with brake cleaner and you are as good as new.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 09:42 PM
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I long ago put new ceramic pads on original unmanipulated Z51 rotors and the setup is fine. It has started to sing lately when they are dirty and that is why new rotors and Akebono Ceramic pads sit on my garage floor. The original rotors look tired and that is why they will be replaced with Aplus grade pads and a rotor supposedly OEM quality.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 09:45 PM
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Now doubt about it he is ASE certified brake mechanic. Who came over with Noah after the big one. .....LOL
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 10:06 PM
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Just did mine GS pad-lets 1 month ago, no turning of the rotors, no cleaning, just installed DuraLast Gold pads, works fine, no squealing, no dust, stops well, no nothing.
So maybe the guy is "funning" you
NSF
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 10:18 PM
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^and that was my experience
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 10:28 PM
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Total ****** BS.. Changed my street pads to ceramics two years ago and I haven't looked back. I switch pads around at least 10 times a year for track days. I don't even clean the rotors off anymore.. it's zero issues.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by evrose
not true.
x2!
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 11:03 PM
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Can't is a strong word.

When you change pads, you will get better performance by removing the old transfer layer, ad bedding the rotors in with your new pads, like the previous poster mentioned with the scotch brite pad. However, if you choose NOT to do this, eventually the pads will do this on their own, you're just going to be operating at a reduced effectiveness for an unknown amount of time.

Personally, I HATE ceramic pads. I have them on my dd, and the first few stops are really flakey until the pads are heated up. Especially in the winter. It takes a good 10 minutes of my commute (not particularly hard) for them to come up to non-scary temperature. I would not ever consider running them on a performance car where you've got a higher chance of needing to slow from speed quickly.
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by FAUEE
Can't is a strong word.

When you change pads, you will get better performance by removing the old transfer layer, ad bedding the rotors in with your new pads, like the previous poster mentioned with the scotch brite pad. However, if you choose NOT to do this, eventually the pads will do this on their own, you're just going to be operating at a reduced effectiveness for an unknown amount of time.

Personally, I HATE ceramic pads. I have them on my dd, and the first few stops are really flakey until the pads are heated up. Especially in the winter. It takes a good 10 minutes of my commute (not particularly hard) for them to come up to non-scary temperature. I would not ever consider running them on a performance car where you've got a higher chance of needing to slow from speed quickly.
I can't refute what has obviously been your unsatisfactory experience with ceramic pads. I can say that in several daily driver applications using several brands of ceramic pads I've had the exact opposite experience . The ceramic pads have done their job consistently, quietly, cleanly and all at very affordable prices and with minimal rotor wear. As has been said before, ceramic pads are not suitable for track use but only a select few pads are truly track worthy and they carry a hefty price and are often hard on rotors.

Regarding cracks on crossed drilled rotors, I've had several sets of cross drilled rotors in daily driver applications and have never experienced any cracking. Rotor cracking is most often associated with extreme thermal stress, a condition that is common on the track but uncommon on the street. Cracking is not confined to drilled and slotted rotors, solid rotors can crack as well. Should you decide to track your Corvette you will come to see rotors, pads and brake fluid as short term consumables that require frequent replacement at some considerable cost.
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 12:45 AM
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Maybe he was confusing carbon ceramic brakes with ceramic brake pads.
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 01:17 AM
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I think he was confused. His brother's friend's mothers's uncle must be a mechanic. Lol!!
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 10:14 AM
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Car shows are for looking only.
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Guard Dad
I can't refute what has obviously been your unsatisfactory experience with ceramic pads. I can say that in several daily driver applications using several brands of ceramic pads I've had the exact opposite experience . The ceramic pads have done their job consistently, quietly, cleanly and all at very affordable prices and with minimal rotor wear. As has been said before, ceramic pads are not suitable for track use but only a select few pads are truly track worthy and they carry a hefty price and are often hard on rotors.

Regarding cracks on crossed drilled rotors, I've had several sets of cross drilled rotors in daily driver applications and have never experienced any cracking. Rotor cracking is most often associated with extreme thermal stress, a condition that is common on the track but uncommon on the street. Cracking is not confined to drilled and slotted rotors, solid rotors can crack as well. Should you decide to track your Corvette you will come to see rotors, pads and brake fluid as short term consumables that require frequent replacement at some considerable cost.
And the cracking that occurs is not from the heating, but from the non-uniform rate of cooling.
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
And the cracking that occurs is not from the heating, but from the non-uniform rate of cooling.
non uniform rate of cooling is caused by heating of the rotors
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by irok
non uniform rate of cooling is caused by heating of the rotors
Uh yeah! You usually have to get them hot before they can cool.

They tend to get hot and expand pretty evenly, but they don't always cool evenly.
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 02:53 PM
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My Camaro's are cheapo ebay @ 131,000 is what I think I quoted in another thread and they are not cracked. Where do people come up with this notion that all drilled rotors crack? I'm sure glad I went to Trade School when I was 13, so I know better that to listen to everything written on the internet. LMAO
Just imagine all those drilled rotors made over the years hundreds of thousands made and sold, to crack, and people still buy them.

Last edited by ls1121; Feb 15, 2015 at 02:56 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1121
My Camaro's are cheapo ebay @ 131,000 is what I think I quoted in another thread and they are not cracked. Where do people come up with this notion that all drilled rotors crack? I'm sure glad I went to Trade School when I was 13, so I know better that to listen to everything written on the internet. LMAO
Just imagine all those drilled rotors made over the years hundreds of thousands made and sold, to crack, and people still buy them.
Oh come on man, don't you know everything on the internet is true, just has to be Especially on the forums LOL
NSF
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