the way it is supposed to.

I have always wanted a C6 DRL switchback solution that allowed the DRL's and running lights to be white while still having the turn signals flash yellow. I also didn't want the required 50 ohm resistors to be generating 350 degrees of heat non-stop while the DRL's were lit when there was no reason for it (the resistors are only required to "fool" the BCM when turn signals are flashing).

Radio Flyer Innovations had seen my previous thread detailing my spliced, relay/resistor solution that I had built with all-white LED's on my white Grandsport and after discussing my desire to have the same relay capability with a white DRL switchbacks asked if I would be willing to help him prototype a solution.

Well, Radio Flyer Innovations now has a plug & play harness that utilizes two solid-state circuits in conjunction with the 50 ohm resistor and a switch back LED bulb that provides the white DRL / yellow turn signal functionality while only sending power to the resistor when the turn signals are active. Additionally, because the solid-state circuits control how the LED's and resistor are powered there is no is no hyper-flash when the turn signals are activated. The new harness should be available on his website soon but you can always contact George directly if you are interested in purchasing the harness prior to him updating the site.

I installed a production-ready harness on my wife's 2012 Centennial Edition Grandsport this weekend and I extremely pleased with the results. The harness build quality is excellent and completely plug&play. Total installation time for both sides was app. 45 minutes but to be fair I have swapped DRL's previously on my C6 so I was familiar with the steps to get access to the bulbs.

Installation Steps:
1. Jack a front wheel up to give you access to the wheel well panel behind the headlight assembly. Removing 3 of the plastic push pins (you have to pull the center of the pin out first) will allow you to move the flap out of the way enough to reach inside and remove the DRL / Turn signal OEM yellow bulb by turning the bulb socket a 1/4 turn.




2. Remove the OEM blub from the socket. Insert the male 3157 adapter from the RFI harness into the OEM female 3157 socket, making sure to slide the rubber protective boot all the way down over the socket base. Install the CREE LED switchback bulb into the RFI female 3157 socket. Test the installation by activating the turn signals. If the bulb does not light at all, remove and rotate the bulb 180 degrees as the LED bulbs are polarity dependent.





3. To mount the resistor in the engine compartment pull the the resistor behind the headlight space through a 1/2" hole located behind the hood shock rod (when open) where there is enough lead to mount the resistor on the frame rail using the included double-sided moulding tape. Placing the resistor all the way forward on the frame rail (to the base of the hood hinge plate) will make sure the hood shock will clear it when the hood is closed.






4. Once the resistor is mounted you can tuck the harness up into the space behind the headlight assembly. Although probably not an issue because of the rubber boot that protects the OEM 3157 socket I suggest positioning the OEM 3157 socket facing downward. Close the wheel well flap, replace the three plastic push pins and installation is complete.



I've included a couple video links as well to show how the switchbacks function.

Video Links:
Comparing the switchback LED to the OEM yellow filament bulb. The switchback LED is located on the Driver's side, the OEM bulb on the passenger.


Shows DRL and turn signal functionality with both switchback LED's installed.

 

Nice write-up. Thanks for taking the time to post this. I've been looking around for a DRL switchback solution and this one looks like it may just be "the one."

 

The two solid state circuits are what makes this harness product unique. They are very small, about the size of a postage stamp, and built into the harness itself (encased in heatshrink for protection) so don't require separate mounting. The quality of the 3157 adapters used is very high as well, very sturdy compared to the cheap stuff I sourced when I was originally trying to build my relay solution. Based on the quality of the components and construction I don't have any concerns at all about longevity issues.

Additionally, as you can see from the videos link I included the CREE LED switchback LED's bulbs that George supplies with the kit are extremely bright. The first video shows the yellow turn signal LED's are brighter than the OEM filament bulb. The second video was shot out in bright daylight and DRL white LED is brighter than the white LED bulbs I have on my other Grandsport.

FWIW, I should have shot a pic of the harness off the car BEFORE mounting it tp post with the write-up but I didn't think about it. I will get a current pic of the new harness from George once he updates his WEB site.

 

Video #1 unavailable.

 

OK, Googles Docs hosting of video appears to be a little intolerant of non-standard video sizes.

I've uploaded to YouTube to resolve.

 

Nice write up for cool light mod.

 

Special thanks to RC4G for helping us with this product. We now have this product for sale here:

http://shop.radioflyerinnovations.co...arness-089.htm

 

Very cool, I will have to order one.

 

You are lucky you only have to order 1 kit. I have to order a 2nd kit now because the Mrs. grabbed the first one for her Grandsport.

 

I need this.

added to the list.

 

RC4G, I assume that you’ve thought about this small mod a lot and from your pictures, it is clear that you have the knowledge and expertise to use sleeves on soldered joints. One little question, you’ve used a small resistor connected to a metallic part as a heat sink. I wanted to ask what you used to connect that resistor on-to that metallic surface. Also, could you please let me know how much heated up that resistor gets?

assembly pcb

 

The harnesses come ready to plug & play from Radio Flyer innovations so it's best you contact George directly for specific details on solder joints and materials used.

Because the resistor is only powered for the first couple seconds of the circuit it does not get hot at all when the DRL's are lit solid. The resistor only gets hot during turn signal flash so even then only during the on cycle of the flash. I will put a infrared heat gun on it to measure the temp for different durations of flash this weekend.

 

Looks like a good solution. I didn't want to splice into the harness, now I have the option not too. Good thread!!

 

I just got mine in from Radio Flyer - Love them ! Install was about 45 min as I did not take the tire off so my big hands had to work slow in the tight space. The write up was very helpful, thanks again

 

so im hoping this issue i'm seeing now that i have these LED switch backs installed is me and not the new lights/setup.

In natural daylight, my DRL's are no longer "on". I have to manually turn the foglight switch on my signal indicator to make the DRL's (with the new LED's) come on.

Is this expected with these new switch backs or did I somehow tun the auto feature off...and YES my headlamps are in the auto position

 

I believe outside in daylight you have to have the car in Drive to activate the DRLs with the headlight switch in Auto. Seems I recall that.

 

ok i was alslo thinking that as well I have a manual 6 speed Z51, its a 2005. If someone else recalls the same then i will feel better...id have my wife stand outside and validate that but shes 8 months prego so im already walking on eggshells

 

Hmmm, not sure how the M6 works.

 

I think park brake off.

 

doh !!!!

Ok working as expected and love them !