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Theres nothing to be skeptical about. Every professional detailer I've talked to uses clay in the right scenarios to achieve the best result. I however do not know the proper scenarios, or proper technique, thus is why I'm not a professional detailer, lol. I do know that clay should always be followed by a buffer to get the best outcome.
Do you think maybe the follow up with a buffer is to get out any scratches that may have happened due to the clay picking up debris and then rubbed across the paint ??
Do you think maybe the follow up with a buffer is to get out any scratches that may have happened due to the clay picking up debris and then rubbed across the paint ??
If the car is properly washed there will not be anything the clay bar picks up that can scratch the paint. If used on a dirty car all bets are off.
If the car is properly washed there will not be anything the clay bar picks up that can scratch the paint. If used on a dirty car all bets are off.
I beg to differ with you on that. What get stuck into the paint will not be removed with just a wash. Any car that is driven with after time pick up contaminates that stick to the paint and can really only be removed with a clay bar or similar product. If you have not clay barred your car in a year or more do the baggy test.
I am retired and the car is garage kept and is not a daily driver, yet I need to clay mine at least once a year.
As for the buffer issue to remove the scratches I recommend a random orbital buffer, not a circular type that you see used at body shops and some detail shops. That type can do more damage then good unless you are well schooled on the use of it. Also if you use the clay bar properly you will not get scratches in the paint. You get more scratches when washing, or dusting the car with detail spray and the so called wonderful California Duster.
I clayed the car two months ago, not that I needed it at the time. But wow what a difference. Car was looking good at the time too. I'll be doing it once a year for sure. Went from shiny Silver Blade Metallic to extremely amazing Silver Blade Metallic. Then waxed it. Really pleased with the results. It's a must in my opinion.
I beg to differ with you on that. What get stuck into the paint will not be removed with just a wash. Any car that is driven with after time pick up contaminates that stick to the paint and can really only be removed with a clay bar or similar product. If you have not clay barred your car in a year or more do the baggy test.
I am retired and the car is garage kept and is not a daily driver, yet I need to clay mine at least once a year.
As for the buffer issue to remove the scratches I recommend a random orbital buffer, not a circular type that you see used at body shops and some detail shops. That type can do more damage then good unless you are well schooled on the use of it. Also if you use the clay bar properly you will not get scratches in the paint. You get more scratches when washing, or dusting the car with detail spray and the so called wonderful California Duster.
Reread my post. I said if properly washed before using the clay bar it should not scratch the paint.
I agree that washing alone will not remove all contaminants, but if done properly it should not scratch the paint. Usually that is done by improper washing.
Claying is a valid step in specializing in car care. Yes, clay can be abrasive (rubbing against finish) that's why its important to use clay lube and why polishing is often suggested as another valid step. There are additional decontamination steps also that are optional (paint cleaning, Iron-X).
Reread my post. I said if properly washed before using the clay bar it should not scratch the paint.
I agree that washing alone will not remove all contaminants, but if done properly it should not scratch the paint. Usually that is done by improper washing.
I apologize, I did read it, just read it incorrectly. Sorry.
I showed a neighbor how good clay bars work. I did half the hood on my Gr Cherokee with a clay bar and left the other side alone. I took a plastic bottle and set it on the side I didn't do and it just sat there. I then set it on the side I did with the clay bar and it slide right off!! I did not polish or wax the spot. All I did was clay bar it. They have fantastic results.
I did clay bar my Corvette three weeks ago and could not believe the difference it made in the feel, the look, and what I thought was make it shine better.
I used Mothers on it as that is all I have used since I purchased the car.
I'm not one of the happy people. But then, my car had no garage for the first 2 years of its life and developed a rather nasty water spotted finish.
I tried stroking with the clay bar, and, nothing. Absolutely nothing happened. Nothing stuck to the bar and nothing was removed from the finish. I looked around for a hidden camera `cause this has to be a joke, but no. I wasted my money.
Obviously most people see positive results. I did not.
Anyone clay bar your Vette? If so, how were your results and any recommended products? Thanks!
The clay bar whether regular or synthetic will make waxing your car easier. It cleans the surface and you will notice the wax goes on easier. The cheaper clays are rock hard. You want a medium grade. If You Drop it on the ground , Throw it away! It will pickup dirt & scratch the **** out of your car! Most guys break the bar in half . That way if they drop it they have the other half. The synthetic clays are expensive because they are washable and reusable for about 25 times.
Black cars shine the best & show every speck of dust & any imperfection that you would not notice on other colors.
I'm not one of the happy people. But then, my car had no garage for the first 2 years of its life and developed a rather nasty water spotted finish.
I tried stroking with the clay bar, and, nothing. Absolutely nothing happened. Nothing stuck to the bar and nothing was removed from the finish. I looked around for a hidden camera `cause this has to be a joke, but no. I wasted my money.
Obviously most people see positive results. I did not.
Claying is not designed to remove water spotting. It is designed to pull contaminants away from the finish. It will remove overspray.
For water spots you can use a water spot remover, paint cleaning lotion, and polishing. Depending how long water spots have burnt and etched into surface, wet sanding might be necessary. Its often more about the type of water (sprinklers, well water, acid rain) and the material within that water.
From: The line waiting to see Santa Claus stretched all the way back to Terre Haute, and I was at the end, Indiana
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18
I have 4 Corvettes, 2 daily drivers, and motorcycles...they ALL get clay barred regularly, and I have done this for at least 15 years. I have found that most clay bars are mostly equal. I buy the ones on sale or have two in the pack. Break the bar in half, in case you drop the one you are using and have to pitch it. Secure the unused portions in an airtight container (I use a jar). Use LOTS of lube...either the formula included or quick detailer. Don't do it more than one time a year, and immediately wax with a quality product of your choice (I use Zaino).
I use meguiars clay bar kit with their soap, polish and paste wax and am very happy with the results. Clay once, polish once, paste wax 2 annually. I use quik wax after washing and quik detailer for touch ups in between. All meguiars ultimate line products.
Last edited by Titan C6Z; Apr 23, 2015 at 08:11 AM.
From: Currently somewhere in IL,IN,KY,TN,MO,AR,MS,AL, or FL
Wash
Clay
Polish
Wash
Rejex
Repeat every 6 months
There are lots of threads on clay. Do a search. The most important tip I would give is to just use a small piece of clay. A ball about the size of a quarter mashed flat on the windshield will stick to your fingers and be almost impossible to drop. Use plenty of lubricant. If you ever do manage to drop the clay, you can not clean it and it will cause scratches so throw the entire piece away. That's why you use just a small piece.
Still sounds interesting to me. Not trying to pee on anyones paperwork here, but one post states that if the car is washed properly then there will be nothing left for the clay to pick up and scratch the paint. If that's the case then why does one need to use a clay bar in the first place ??
Still sounds interesting to me. Not trying to pee on anyones paperwork here, but one post states that if the car is washed properly then there will be nothing left for the clay to pick up and scratch the paint. If that's the case then why does one need to use a clay bar in the first place ??
What he is saying, as long as you clay the car after it is washed, the clay will only be removing the contaminants that are stuck in the paint. There is a special way that you use the clay bar. As long as you follow the directions you will not harm the paint.
First and fore most always use plenty of the lubricant on the surface that you will be doing, and that is normally a small area. I do my hood in 4 sections. Next after each section fold the clay bar and work it back into shape before you do the next section. If you drop the clay bar throw it away and get a new piece. You should be able to do the complete car in no more then and hour. Also after each section do the baggy test to make sure it is smooth. if it still feels rough do it again. Also always go back and forth with the clay not in circles.